JasonJ: Newer card require more power and obviously generate alot more heat, so it's not just about bad cooling. Is your case cooling sufficient for all the heat being generated because even the best GPU cooler is useless if it's just blowing hot air.
Also, have you checked if your card's fan speed control is working. I'm using x1950pro aswell and at idle temp the fan operates at 20/100% speed but speed increases automatically depending on GPU temperature and for me it stays under 60'C.(..while making much less noise than GF 6800GS)
But I have to admit that graphics card takes the award for hottest component for me even during idle:
GPU: 48'C
CPU: 37,5'C (A64300+@2,4Ghz)
Case: 32'C
Also, have you checked if your card's fan speed control is working. I'm using x1950pro aswell and at idle temp the fan operates at 20/100% speed but speed increases automatically depending on GPU temperature and for me it stays under 60'C.(..while making much less noise than GF 6800GS)
But I have to admit that graphics card takes the award for hottest component for me even during idle:
GPU: 48'C
CPU: 37,5'C (A64300+@2,4Ghz)
Case: 32'C
I guess it comes down to a preference but for me FZR and XRR are alot more forgiving than FOX. With FOX the steering corrections have to be really quick and exactly the right amount, especially the moment when you return the steering wheel to center position.
With FOX the steering movement is like "snap--hold--snap" where in GTRs I can much more easily stay in control of the slide with small steering adjustments and as in FZR's case, quickly end it with fast steering movement to opposite direction.
Could you give little bit more specific information about your current system, such as model of your current CPU and whether you have PCI-E slot?
Last edited by Crommi, .
Good way to practise is to let people past and follow them from safe distance so you get to see the racing line and braking points. It wont get you to top positions but you'll learn much quicker than those who keep crashing out on T1.
6200 ain't only down in GPU and memory frequencies, but it's also seriously handicapped by having only 4 pipelines and low memory bandwidht (64 or 128bit)
Also:
Also:
That CPU has locked multiplier (12,5x?) so the only way to overclock it is to increase FSB, which I doubt would go much further than 150Mhz. So with that it mind it would only increase CPU speed from 1,66Ghz to most likely unstable 1,875Ghz.
It is possible to unlock it but you must be damn sure what you're doing. In old Duron CPUs you could just use normal pencil to bridge two connectors together, but on Athlon XPs you have to find another way since there's drilled holes between disconnected points and based on my experience, any conductive material getting in there will disable the CPU. (althought not permanently, just need a drill for cleaning and very steady hand)
It is possible to unlock it but you must be damn sure what you're doing. In old Duron CPUs you could just use normal pencil to bridge two connectors together, but on Athlon XPs you have to find another way since there's drilled holes between disconnected points and based on my experience, any conductive material getting in there will disable the CPU. (althought not permanently, just need a drill for cleaning and very steady hand)
Atleast amount of duct tape is just about right.
About the shifter, you could just make the "H" part from wood plank and put small switches to each gearslot for each gear. So that you push the lever in, it touches the button. Your way of doing this would be tearing some old joystick apart and applying the duct tape
Edit: Ohh.. didn't consider that that would mean gear is on even when you return the lever to middle position. Hmm, I guess you could bend a thin piece of a flat steelspring atthe "entry" to each gearslot. I suppose your gearlever is made of steel so you can use that as it is and have that system work as a button for neutral gear. It basically acts as a switch; gearlever touches the metal = circuit closes
About the shifter, you could just make the "H" part from wood plank and put small switches to each gearslot for each gear. So that you push the lever in, it touches the button. Your way of doing this would be tearing some old joystick apart and applying the duct tape
Edit: Ohh.. didn't consider that that would mean gear is on even when you return the lever to middle position. Hmm, I guess you could bend a thin piece of a flat steelspring atthe "entry" to each gearslot. I suppose your gearlever is made of steel so you can use that as it is and have that system work as a button for neutral gear. It basically acts as a switch; gearlever touches the metal = circuit closes
Last edited by Crommi, .
You have account already, going to mainpage and either buying S2 by using credit card or inserting voucher code will just update your account status to fully licensed and you're ready to go.
Cordless phone could be causing interference or even some similiar devices owned by your neighbours that operate on same frequency as your WLAN. Althought I'd say it's very unlikely that this is causing your problems, there should be an option in your WLAN station/router's configuration interface to set WLAN operate on different channel which should fix interference problems.
Based on my experience on WLANs, most problems are caused by those poorly designed and cheap wireless stations. Home WLAN systems are not that old yet and your best bet to avoid any possible conflicts with uncompatible hardware is to go for some decent and well known manufacturers.
...However, I highly doubt that your infrared mouse is able to cause problems with your wireless network.
Who needs tactics, just apply your evil mindtricks and break your opponent's concentration 
Well, lapcount really depends on track lenght but ~30min races would be optimal and then occasionally have some 2h mini-endurance races.
My pedals are causing bit of a problem on long run due to crappy design that starts to hurt my heel after a while.
My pedals are causing bit of a problem on long run due to crappy design that starts to hurt my heel after a while.
It's quite high pitch, so it might be out of your hearing range 
Have you asked in your local computer shop what kind of system they could offer for your budget? They can usually come up with pretty good system and most likely they would build it and install operating system without extra cost if you're buying whole setup from them.
Got same problem, ingame steering wheel keeps jumping side to side when steering wheel is held still.
But isn't it just normal to recalibrate the wheel everytime you launch a game, always happened in LFS and other racing sims.
Using Logitech Wingman FF GP.
But isn't it just normal to recalibrate the wheel everytime you launch a game, always happened in LFS and other racing sims.
Using Logitech Wingman FF GP.
Christmas is coming fast, you could always ask either DFP or LFS as a christmas present. 
But if you already own FFB wheel, just go for S2. You don't need the best wheel to enjoy LFS, I got my Wingman FF GP as gift from my parents when it came out and I'm still using it.
But if you already own FFB wheel, just go for S2. You don't need the best wheel to enjoy LFS, I got my Wingman FF GP as gift from my parents when it came out and I'm still using it.
Better way to figure it out is to reduce graphic details step by step (resolution is easy one) and run some replay to see when average FPS stops increasing. That's when your CPU is limiting the game performance and reducing more GPU workload doesn't give any more FPS.
Edit: Well, CPU and GPU aren't exactly "sharing" the frames, graphics card takes care of the visual aspect and draws X amount of frames per second while your CPU is taking care of the other stuff like car physics and handling the network code such as providing you the information about opponent car location and behavior.
Edit: Well, CPU and GPU aren't exactly "sharing" the frames, graphics card takes care of the visual aspect and draws X amount of frames per second while your CPU is taking care of the other stuff like car physics and handling the network code such as providing you the information about opponent car location and behavior.
Last edited by Crommi, .
Well, there's plenty of sound sources in a real car aswell that tend to loop after a while once your ears start to block out some of the other noise during a long drive.
By overclocking that CPU, you would have only gained maybe 1-3fps overall making it an unnecessary risk, especially when old Palomino and Thoroughbred Athlons don't overclock that well without extreme cooling.
By the way, processor usage graph on Task Manager doesn't tell you if your CPU is a bottleneck or not as the usage should be at 100% when game is running.
By the way, processor usage graph on Task Manager doesn't tell you if your CPU is a bottleneck or not as the usage should be at 100% when game is running.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG