Buy ad space in a local paper maybe? Door to door campaigns?
Maybe, but the competition extends very far out from the race track. Some would argue that winning isn't necessary at all. I wouldn't, though. Your ideas, your sponsorship proposals, your impressions on people is where most of the success of a motorsport career lies. That's where the originality needs to be. I was looking at this from an "I'm doing things differently" point of view rather than an "I'm faster than you" view.
I guess what I'm saying is, even if she's not a consistent race winner, if she's got the business chops to stay there, I think she deserves it.
In a room of 3, with 2 wearing gray and 1 wearing yellow, yellow is 1 in 3.
In a room of 1,000, with 999 wearing gray and 1 wearing yellow, yellow is 1 in 1,000.
In a room of 1,000, with 999 wearing gray and 1 wearing yellow, yellow is 1 in 1,000.
Still the same notes I gave you earlier. Early apexes, too much steering, not enough trail braking, still crabbing turn 1.
New ones: brake later for turn 1. 2 things will make you turn in early:
1. Too high of speed. This happens more for experienced guys and/or touchy-feely drivers. Higher speed = higher radius. To turn in with a higher radius you must turn in early. So, the driver feels that the car is going too fast to make the radius he wants for the right apex, and turns in early so as not to bind the car up.
2. (your problem) Too low of speed. You get impatient and you turn in. You're braking too early, scrubbing off too much speed and you turn in early because you want to get to the apex. Remember, you're going up a hill. A little bravery and the right brake pedal timing and you can nail the brake just as the car settles and you won't have to worry about modulating over the crest. Remember, the dangerous part about locking up is not actually locking up, it's what you have to do to regain control (lift the brake).
But the biggest point is still to focus on using less wheel. Use less wheel by carrying brakes past the turn in point. Just remember to trail them off. And stay off the inside curb in turn 3 (the end of the long straight).
New ones: brake later for turn 1. 2 things will make you turn in early:
1. Too high of speed. This happens more for experienced guys and/or touchy-feely drivers. Higher speed = higher radius. To turn in with a higher radius you must turn in early. So, the driver feels that the car is going too fast to make the radius he wants for the right apex, and turns in early so as not to bind the car up.
2. (your problem) Too low of speed. You get impatient and you turn in. You're braking too early, scrubbing off too much speed and you turn in early because you want to get to the apex. Remember, you're going up a hill. A little bravery and the right brake pedal timing and you can nail the brake just as the car settles and you won't have to worry about modulating over the crest. Remember, the dangerous part about locking up is not actually locking up, it's what you have to do to regain control (lift the brake).
But the biggest point is still to focus on using less wheel. Use less wheel by carrying brakes past the turn in point. Just remember to trail them off. And stay off the inside curb in turn 3 (the end of the long straight).
To stand out in a room of three is difficult. To stand out in a room of one thousand is easy.
Is that a bad thing?
I played CoD4 almost every night for at least 6 months.
This thread makes my life look tame and drab.
I dropped open scissors once. I looked down and I saw them sticking out of my foot. I didn't feel anything, and I saw no blood, so I started trying to move my toes. They all worked, so I pulled the scissor out. It had landed inbetween my toes and stuck in the floor.
That was when I was just a little kid.
I dropped open scissors once. I looked down and I saw them sticking out of my foot. I didn't feel anything, and I saw no blood, so I started trying to move my toes. They all worked, so I pulled the scissor out. It had landed inbetween my toes and stuck in the floor.
That was when I was just a little kid.
If you asked people on the street to name a woman racing driver, I'm sure Danica would be the most common answer.
And, no, it doesn't. That's why being a woman is the key thing here.
This whole thing reeks of semantics.
Don't shift to 6th gear going up the hill into turn 1. Stay in 5th.
You're using geometric apexes. This means that you exit the corner with the same speed as the entry. Speed = radius, so the exit radius should be wider to allow the car to accelerate. Take later apexes. Do this (in your specific case) by turning later and faster. Your entry speed is fine. To make the same speed with a later and tighter turn-in, you'll need to trail the brakes past the turn-in point. Start by apexing overly late, so that you exit the corner in the middle of the road, then slowly bring back the turn-in point so that the apex becomes sooner and sooner. Once the apex gets to a certain point, you'll have trouble keeping the car on the road at the exit. Once that happens, you know the apex is too early.
Don't forget about the angle at the apex, as well. I've seen many drivers believe that they were apexing too soon, when in fact it was just the angle of the car that was not right at the apex.
Use less steering input. You're over-asking the front wheels by turning the steering wheel too far. Use as little steering input as possible. You're going fast enough that the steering wheel is acting more like a brake. It's a suggestive device, not a club. Trail braking will help you understand how little steering is actually needed.
You keep applying full throttle even though the steering is still committed to cornering. This stems from the "string theory". If you imagine a string tied from the base of the wheel to your gas pedal. The more you apply the gas, the more you need to unwind the wheel so as not to bind the car up. When you apply full throttle with strong steering input you'll just understeer.
You also "crabbed" the entry to turn 1. Meaning, you moved over about a car-width to the inside before you turned in proper. Trying for a later turn-in will help that.
I did like 1 thing. I liked how you lifted before the turn-in point on no-braking corners. I see a lot of drivers lifting mid-corner. That just upsets the car.
You're using geometric apexes. This means that you exit the corner with the same speed as the entry. Speed = radius, so the exit radius should be wider to allow the car to accelerate. Take later apexes. Do this (in your specific case) by turning later and faster. Your entry speed is fine. To make the same speed with a later and tighter turn-in, you'll need to trail the brakes past the turn-in point. Start by apexing overly late, so that you exit the corner in the middle of the road, then slowly bring back the turn-in point so that the apex becomes sooner and sooner. Once the apex gets to a certain point, you'll have trouble keeping the car on the road at the exit. Once that happens, you know the apex is too early.
Don't forget about the angle at the apex, as well. I've seen many drivers believe that they were apexing too soon, when in fact it was just the angle of the car that was not right at the apex.
Use less steering input. You're over-asking the front wheels by turning the steering wheel too far. Use as little steering input as possible. You're going fast enough that the steering wheel is acting more like a brake. It's a suggestive device, not a club. Trail braking will help you understand how little steering is actually needed.
You keep applying full throttle even though the steering is still committed to cornering. This stems from the "string theory". If you imagine a string tied from the base of the wheel to your gas pedal. The more you apply the gas, the more you need to unwind the wheel so as not to bind the car up. When you apply full throttle with strong steering input you'll just understeer.
You also "crabbed" the entry to turn 1. Meaning, you moved over about a car-width to the inside before you turned in proper. Trying for a later turn-in will help that.
I did like 1 thing. I liked how you lifted before the turn-in point on no-braking corners. I see a lot of drivers lifting mid-corner. That just upsets the car.
She's the most famous woman driver behind the wheel today. Not iconic enough for you?
Whether you like it or not she's a big icon in American racing.
She might take to stock cars better than IndyCar. Who knows. It could be that IndyCars just aren't for her. She does seem to do better on the ovals at least.
If you post up a replay we can see exactly where you're doing things "differently" (wrong 
) and we can give you some ideas to fix it!
) and we can give you some ideas to fix it!If you listen in that vid you can hear the body scraping the ground in high load corners.
IMO, that vid really reminds me of GTR 2. If I saw this for the first time and you told me it was GTR 3 I'd believe it.
IMO, that vid really reminds me of GTR 2. If I saw this for the first time and you told me it was GTR 3 I'd believe it.
Impressions from a player:
I just said... it's very hard on tires. Their tires have to last as long as possible. Thus, over the course of hours, it is faster not to use it.
All the fast drivers I've ever watched use my theory (in karting). We run right next to a professional national every month, with drivers spending upwards of $100,000 with a few being paid to drive, and many of them go to the world finals (2 of my coaches did). I've watched how it's done right.
Tosh. If you said that in my school you'd get a smack on the mouth.
Gamespot has a rather good Preview video:
http://www.gamespot.com/xbox36 ... -shift-video-preview?hd=1
I lol'd.
http://www.gamespot.com/xbox36 ... -shift-video-preview?hd=1
I lol'd.
My head would explode if I tried to use a mouse and pedals at the same time.
Even a very basic understanding of tires would tell you that it is true, and lack of understanding a subject does not make it untrue. The fastest laps are always with the least amount of steering. This is immediately apparent to anyone who has used a telemetry program. Thus, the absolute fastest lap has no steering input.
The long winded explanation is that each tire has a certain amount of retaining tension. When the tire bends, the side wall acts as a rubber band, attempting to pull the wheel back into alignment, since the direction of travel is no longer the direction of face. The more sideways you get (we're talking quarter-degrees here), the less apt the sidewall is at getting the tire to go straight again. Eventually, when the slip angle gets to a predetermined value based on side wall strength, contact area, corner radius, etc, the wheel can no longer right itself. You feel this as the steering going light. This is the slip angle equilibrium, and it's as hard as a tire can possibly work. When you simply turn the wheel, you feel this when you turn the wheel too far - you've exceeded the front tires' grip. The steering goes light and you understeer.
Obviously, there is a problem with this. The steering wheels are pointed in a different direction to the rear wheels (drive wheels).
So to get the rear wheels to work as hard as the fronts, we need to bring the rear end around and induce a total body slip angle. Obviously, you do this with brake and throttle manipulation - you initiate with the brake on the entry phase, and hold it with the throttle during the apex and exit phase.
So, if our first example - terminal understeer, with the steering going light from too much input - is from the front wheels working, but not the rears, then what does four wheel slip angle equilibrium feel like? The steering is light across the entire range. So, you can hold the wheel straight, and you will go around the corner, provided the proper apex, speed, and footwork, as fast as physically possible. I suspect, you could probably let go of the wheel and still hit your exit mark, again, provided the right speed, line, and pedal use. But I wouldn't test that, because no human can zero steer a whole corner.
The problem with zero steer, and why touring car and F1 drivers don't try to use it, is because of two reasons:
1. chasing zero steer will make you inconsistent.
2. true slip angle equilibrium is hard on tires.
So a true genius driver, who needs to worry about tire life and speed over the course of hours, will operate in the angles just before the steering goes light. We're talking less than half a degree of body slip angle difference.
I didn't spend many thousands on racing school and coaches to learn "the pedal on the right makes it louder". And if you think I'm wrong, Ive got many, many references who are more than qualified. A good chapter on the subject is in Carroll Smith's "Drive to Win" on Tires.
A braking zone in my kart is about 60 feet at 70 MPH. I can knock 5 feet off that number by trail braking until 5 feet past turn-in and still exit the corner with the same speed, if not faster because I'm 4-wheel drifting. Even with 4 wheel brakes in a KZ2 at 105 MPH the braking zones mandate that you trail brake, and the good drivers do.
Last edited by MadCat360, .
I was talking about leaning inwards, towards the inside wheels? A new driver did that in my school series last year. He was getting loose at speeds much, much slower than I was going through the corners.
There are no morons on here (except maybe me). And on the internet, that's high praise.
1. works because the weight is going forward. It gives the front tires more contact area and makes the turn-in snappier.
2... not sure. Just don't lean inward. That will definitely reduce the grip. I don't lean out when I drive, but just by holding myself steady in the seat the weight transfer would get to the outside tires.
Uh, trail braking? Brief moments of zero steer? If the car is rotating in the corner then the inside wheel is picking up. You can hear it coming off the ground in my videos. I just said I couldn't zero steer an entire track. If your steering is neutral that means the slip angle is perfect. If the slip angle is perfect the inside tire's picking up.
The karts are 55mm rears. Still didn't stop a guy snapping one... the engines are Rotax, that's why they are bogging so much. Pretty temperature sensitive engines. Sometimes they work alright and sometimes you can't even go to full throttle until you're halfway down the straight.
Last edited by MadCat360, .
There's onboards on my blog.
I didn't say I could do it, zero steer is just the fastest way physically.
As far as I'm concerned, definitely. He's obviously got money, since Star Mazda is about twice as expensive as Formula BMW. Why he doesn't just keep going up is beyond me.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG