Quote from Michel 4AGE :

Check out tirerack.com for better surveys, reviews en testresults.

I have the Ziex ZE-912 on my MR2. Great allround tyre, good traction on wet. But they are too much allround. They're nowhere close to the Potenza RE050A (yes make sure you get the ones with the A behind it) and/or the Goodyear Eagle F1.

tirerack dont review toyo and falken.

Quote from sgt.flippy :

So finding the limits is part of drifting..

I thought that would be the actual art in it, going towards the limit but don't cross it. I think it's kinda easy to say crashing equals "searching for the limits".

If a racer goes around a track and goes out, he's not saying: "oh I was pushing to the limits, I crossed it, but that means I'm a good driver!".

if popping my rear 1/4 panel is worth 2hrs of pushing it to the limit, its worth every moment.

racing and drifting are 2 completely different sports, to compare the 2 in that scenario is stupid.

Quote from R34king :

Nice R32 bro Ive been watching your videos from when you start and your getting really good Good too see a R32 being used

im getting into proper drifting this year (not the streets lolz) and start qualifying for D1NZ

I have a 1991 R32 with a RB30block with a 25 head. but the turbo shat itself and i kinda did some other damage so I now have a Rb25det S2 out of a r33 3 point cage and plenty of other bits and bobs just need to get a cert and ill be sweet

I also have a 1990 R32 GTS Rb20de

which Is my NA project this is my main focus right now here Is a vid of the exhaust

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ... &feature=channel_page

nice man, yeh RB30 hybrid is the plan for mine as well, just waiting til i blow the RB20. i personally dont have any desire for any more power, my enjoyment comes from chucking the car around rather than smoking the tyres mid corner. but to be competitive u really need the power, which is dissapointing, but a fact of life. id like to keep the RB20 as long as possible and keep on devloping a good technique, i know as soon as i go to the RB30 my technique will start getting more lazy due to the extra power. i love having to fight the car, and not having it all come easy.

so thats resulted in basically all my money going into suspension, i just recently bought some 2nd hand rear R32 GTR bilstein B6's for $50, got them rebuilt and revalved to the specs i wanted, bought some GTR hubs (alloy instead of steel) and LCA's, and ready to put it all in for next practice, cant wait to try them out.

wouldnt mind going over to NZ, u guys seem like uve got a fairly decent drift scene, i guess it helps not having gay aussie import laws for imports haha

Quote from anttt69 :

the tyres are for my sprint/hillclimb fiesta so economy tyres are not an option.

ah ok, sorry my knowledge really only extends to 16-18" tyres, so cant really help there.

Quote from Scrabby :

Ok, how did you broke the wheel? Not of the tirepile was it?

which wheel is that? the tyres knocked my steering out of alignment and possibly bent some steering (yet to find out). but the wheels are still fine.

Quote from theirishnoob :

theirs also a saying: " just because you seen a movie doesn't mean you can drift " as the video you posted demonstrates... Get profession lessons for the theory you learn from it alone is worth its weight in gold

lol, thanks, but not everyone discovered drift through hollywood like urself.

if u think for a second the guys competing at the highest level arent still crashing then ur deluded, even then a lot of the reason why they dont crash as much is because they are driving for sponsors in a sponsors car, it becomes purely about consistancy and keeping a good looking car. if you look at the more grass roots side of drift, most of the cars are dinged up pigs because they never stop pushing the limits. they are the guys defining what is possible, as they dont have to worry about keeping a clean car and an image for sponsors, and quite frankly they couldnt give a shit what the car looks like.

the day that u sit back and say "oh im happy with my level of driving" is the day u get bored shitless and leave the sport, there's no way to know where ur limits are without finding them first

Quote from DHRammstein :

I just picked up one of these. I thought it would take 2-5 years, but we've decided not to have a second child. I've done very well in the market, I guess I'm extremely lucky, but I'd also like to think I made smart decisions. Plus I admit I won a lawsuit, and not a bull$shit one either. I was hit by a Tractor Trailer traveling at 75mph while I was sitting at a stop, so yeah, I deserve every penny I got.

Anyways, this isnt the exact car, but this is exactly what it looks like, identical. I love these cars in black.



For anyone familiar with the Geiger Ford GT, which I'm obsessed with, it has the most badass wheels available for the Ford GT. Very rare, I've ordered them along with tires, so my car will look EXACTLY like this in about a month>>>

Here's a nice view and 1/8 mile run of the Geiger, this will give a better view of what my GT will look like, it will be identical. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4WJGQhFYhI

I'm selling my 2004 Kenne Bell Cobra for anyone that's interested. PM me for info, but it has a Kenne Bell 2.2 supercharger, racing suspension, weight reduction, Brembo brakes all the way around, 4 core radiator, custom tune; Actually you can run it on the street tune and it outputs 556hp at the rear wheels, and you can run it on the race tune, which requires race fuel, and put down around 625-650hp at the rear wheels, depending on the weather. It makes more power in cold weather, as with any forced induction car. I'm asking $35,500 FIRM. Will consider trade plus cash, I'm interested in newer Viggen Saab, VW R32, Nissan 370Z, and a number of Porches, depending what model I may accept a trade, but I don't want anything extravagent, I want cash along with the trade.

Anyways I'll let ya's know how much ass I kick at the racetrack with my new Ford GT. So far I've only been to the drag strip, ran a best of 11.18 at 133mph. But I've ordered a pulley and a few other parts which should get me near 625rwhp after I get it tuned. Stock the GT is 550hp, 500tq.

never been a massive fan of american cars, but the GT has to be one of the best looking cars around. very jelous.

Quote from Scrabby :

Used and Abused
I'm one of your subscribers on youtube, waiting for new movies to show up

thanks man, car is about to have quite a bit of work done to it, should be a clip up of the drift praccy next weekend, and then the DSC competition (national comp) a few weeks later.

jzx81 mark II, cant remember if it was the ex-tezuka one built by kids heart or not, either way its a nice piece of machinery.

what's this going on? by the sounds of things ur probably better off with a ecconomy option.

for that price range id be going with Dunlop Sport Maxx's.

Quote from jibber :

Nice photos!

I said "ouch" because it's such a nice car, and kinda hurts to see it damaged. But i guess you can't avoid it on a track eventually, and i'm sure you learn from every mistake. I wish you lots of fun with it as long as you can keep it in one piece.

thanks man, theres a saying in the drift community: if ur not hitting stuff, ur not trying hard enough. ull never learn unless u push the limits.

Quote from Scrabby :

An intercooler (not stock) does add HP

not all the time directly, in fact in some cases it reduces power, or at least reduces a bit of response. bigger intercoolers (often called FMIC - front mounted intercoolers - as opposed to standard SMIC - side mounted) allow you to add more boost. when u compress air, u make the air hotter, hot air = bad (read: detonation), having more cooling power lets u compress the air more safely.

in theory i guess ud expect a small amount of power gains, but in practice it rarely seems the case.

Last edited by nisskid, Sat 2 May 2009, 09:40.

Quote from BastianB :

really nice!! Post some more pics please

dont have a lot recent of it besides stuff on the track, here are a few on the track:
http://i79.photobucket.com/alb ... 1/nisskid/Drift/w11-1.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/Drift/89.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/alb ... isskid/Drift/DSC_1925.jpg

and some old pics of when it was clean:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/DSCN12942.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/DSCN12922.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/alb ... kid/My%20Car/100_5162.jpg

and another one of it now:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/DSCF5355.jpg

bah, that's not ouch, this is ouch:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/CrashCar1.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/CrashCar3.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/DSCN9250.jpg

relatively speaking, the recent hit was soft, was only into tyres haha, here's a few pics and vids of it to keep u entertained:
http://i79.photobucket.com/alb ... 35552790_55d18fb1c6_o.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/alb ... isskid/Drift/DSC_1882.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/alb ... isskid/Drift/DSC_1883.jpg

http://videos.streetfire.net/v ... 32-Drift-Crash_640839.htm

dont have any footage of the damage to the rear, that was me just getting closer and closer to those same tyres in the vid until eventually the rear clipped them. only have in car footage where u can hear the bang.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/P1020380.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/DSCF5356.jpg

Quote from ajp71 :

What's the point? You are driving a cheap mass produced Malaysian car, why on earth do you want to debadge and modify it simply to increase your street cred? If you want to turn it into a cheap and cheerful road rally/trackday car then go for it but you should be starting with putting some decent (not necessarily high performance) tyres on it getting the brakes up to a high standard and putting full harnesses in, after which I'd precede to strip the car somewhat (but do not remove the headlining/all the trim unless you really want a proper competition car). If you've done all that then maybe consider strut braces a bigger anti roll bar and maybe some better quality dampers (do not start your suspension modifications by lowering the thing). If you're not going to be driving the car at the limit (which by the sounds of it given your economy concerns you're not) then do not bother trying to make performance modifications.

If it doesn't feel great to drive, does scary stuff under braking or it suffers from vibrations and you've checked the wheel bearings then a new set of tyres will make a huge difference, they're very expensive, don't expect to get much change from £200 on a car like yours with basic quality tyres (say a set of Eco Continentals), however no amount of modification is going to help if your beautifully refined chassis can't connect with the ground.

I've done the following to mine and had a good reason for each, none were senselessly bolting stuff on to it because I could.

Fire extinguisher (self-explanatory)

Rev counter - felt I needed one with trashing the thing everywhere, bit of a luxury.

agreed with everything here.

do some research into ur car, there might be a fairly basic way to upgrade brakes, usually u can put brakes from a larger car on, then a pad like the bendix ultimate and ur done with brakes.

handling wise, find out the standard spring rates, work from their rates, and go a bit harder and maybe modify the rates to balance the car more for hard driving. once uve got the spring rate, get some dampers valved to suit, bilsteins are great, durable, relatively cheap, and bloody good performers. then as mentioned, adjustable sway bars.

also depending on ur budget replace all rubber bushing in ur suspension, it will be rooted, and rubber is shit anyway. polyurethane is the way to go, if u can afford, go some adjustable arms, rose jointed is the more common, but personally id be looking for some adjustable arms with urethane bushing.

a good race seat, dont bother with cheap shit, ur better off with some good 2nd hand seats, i picked up a fixed back sparco rev with low rails for AU$300, had a few tears etc but who gives a shit tbh.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/DSCN2443.jpg

stickers give me extra 20hp (seat came out of a competition car and cbf taking them off lol)

harness etc etc (even though i dont have one in that pic)

as mentioned, tyres are everything, contis are a good tyre, im running some on the front atm (contisport contact II's) and they are decent, but ive always found that the sidewalls are quite soft with contis, even the contisports, im a big fan of dunlops and bridgestones.

and yep, a decent tacho if it doesnt have one standard, but none of this wanky monster tacho in the window shit. u wanna see exactly what rpm ur doing.

Quote from tristancliffe :

Use anything really. You won't get much benefit from high quality fuel. However, do try Optimax (or BP Ultimate, or even Tesco99) for a bit, because you might find that your cost/mile goes DOWN as you get more miles to a tankful. In which case only a numpty would use supermarket 'fuel'.

agreed, the thing about quality fuel is its not really designed to give u extra power, its designed to allow more agressive tunes, which leads to more power obviously. if ur getting big gains from high octane fuel in an average car, then ur tune is off or there is an issue with ur car. average cars are tuned for average fuel.

Quote from Jakg :

strut braces - yes or no?

depends on the suspension and mounting of ur suspension, for some cars the suspension is mounted to the rails and the strut braces do nothing but provide a bit more chassis rigidity, which is better than nothing, but not really what a strut brace is designed for. for other cars the suspension is mounted to something less structurally integral, this leads to flex when u put stress on the suspension, this is where the strut brace really makes a difference.

i personally only run a strut brace up the front of my car as the suspension in the front end of R32 Skyline's is just mounted to the skirts, so there is a bit of flex, i noticed a definate reduction in mid-corner understeer.

saying that, i would only go strut braces after ARB's (anti-roll bars or sway bars), ARB's are the best bang for buck mod u can do to ur car imho, make sure u get adjustable ones, this will alow u to balance ur car's handling which is just as if not more important that the roll reduction they provide.

FZ5 is like American drift, bigger power, bigger smoke, faster speeds, but clumsy agility, and sloppy transitions.

XRT is like Japanese drift, less power, less smoke, but easier to throw around, sharp transitions, and generally more precise.

people forget that drift is not powersliding, a strong drifting technique will allow u to drift a car with less than 100hp, watch a FZ5 drifter try and drift a XRG. drift is about weight transference and balance, not just putting ur foot down and power-oversteering. an XRT has superior balance and agility, therefore its a superior car for drift. and by drift i mean proper drift, not the americanised shit.

cheers mate, ill give it a crack.

Quote from G!NhO :

isn't the range, the same as the degree of turning?

maybe change it back to lets say 720?

ive played around with the 2 different angle adjustments, in the profiler and in LFS, both didnt really do anything to solve my problem :S

maybe someone can give me a profiler setup to do with the default LFS setup?

probably been discussed a million times, but too hard to search. just got a wheel, and to begin with it was turning way too fast, so adjusted the "Range" and its about right rate now, but only turns 90 degrees.

anyone know wtf is going on?

ideally id like to see engine temp added, then things like A:F, timing and boost adjustable, then obviously the more aggressive your settings, the harder on the engine, higher temp causes loss of power then eventually a blown engine. would make for some interesting races and tactics.

btw linking corners is always an issue of bad line and bad angle control, bad line is purely down to driver, angle control can sometimes be helped with setup.