Hmm... so it's probably the time to go shopping for another one, as what you've described is looking as the pot has finished its life. It's skipping, loses contact when turning, that's what it appears like and that loses you a lot of time in hotlapping.
You've already noticed some of the differences (and that's good), so you can start working on them.
First, can you set your axes to be separate? It is important, but you can still make progress as it is.
Sets can differ a lot, as probably yours and the WR holder's aren't the same, so braking force may differ too . Don't take notice on how long you both brake on that spot, try to brake a bit less than that and you'll be able to enter the corner at desirable speed. But carrying that speed through the corner is another issue and it depends a lot on the set. Sets for AS3 for most cars are very specific, since the preferable thing is to use very little downforce and rely on mechanical grip only. It is very hard to make a good AS3 set that will be competitive with all the guys who know a lot about car physics. Furthermore, even if you take the WR set doesn't mean you'll be able to drive it close to WR times. You need to practice a lot and crash dozens of cars to get the feeling which is the best and fastest way to drive through the whole track.
What wheel do you use? If it shows movements on the straights, even if you don't move your wheel, it looks like the pot in the wheel is dieing... and yes, all those small movements slow the car a bit and make you lose some time. Also, if it is so, it's not precise enough in the corners and that loses you more precious time.
So, yes... probably the time to buy a new wheel
But if you then hit such a hardened barrier there, all the chances are that your car will be spread on it's exit rather than those tires, as it is has been the case so far.
The thing is that when ever you go to LFS for the first time after you turned your PC on, you have to move all axes (wheel and pedals) to their max and min values a few times and it'll be fine from then on.
To be honest... as much as I hate S3 (new patch, VW Scirocco, Rockingham, tire physics etc.) being postponed as much as most of you do, it's fair to say that rFactor 2, for example, isn't doing much better in it's development schedule
I agree. Maybe the best solution would be to restart only if more than 50% of the grid is involved in crash.
But it's going to be extremely difficult to control the race without an non-racing admin.
Also, racing rules according which the penalties would be imposed must be specified and must be specified clearly in order to have a fair and fun racing.
This could do maybe http://en.lfsmanual.net/wiki/Clean_Racers_Club_Rules
These are the rules for OLFSL.
One thing though... LFS AIs are not the best in sim world. I find it harder to race with than "live" racers, even thought they are slower. That's mostly because they would stick to the racing line even if you are side by side with it in the inner side of the corner.
So.... don't relay so much on how that comes up. Better try to practise the tracks and the cars by yourself until you get confident enough.
However, when you join any server, most of racers would share their setups if asked.
When you decide you're fine to join the server for the first time, try those with not too many racers in it (like 5-6) and try practise races with them. Don't go to crowded servers first, because you'll find that half of the grid usually don't know how to race well, but they race as if all of us were AIs, not the persons behind wheels (at least, that's my experience) and you'll probably get slammed all the time.
Try to respect other drivers, say "sorry" if you think you've done something to ruin other driver's race, give them enough room in battles for position, don't cut them.
In about a month of racing on servers, you'll become an experienced enough racer, so good luck!
And here's how I finally got rid of this nasty headache:
After trying everything that came to my and your minds, I did one more thing after uninstalling the Profiler - ....... I extracted "Z to Z22" once more and had a fresh start with LFS..... and the delay was finaly gone!
Now, after having so much trouble with this I have drown a conclusion that might help some other drivers in the future who'll get stuck with this problem:
DO NOT INSTALL THE BLOODY LOGITECH PROFILER!!!!!
DO NOT INSTALL THE BLOODY LOGITECH PROFILER!!!!!
DO NOT INSTALL THE BLOODY LOGITECH PROFILER!!!!!
Simply plug your MOMO in, turn on LFS, go to Controler menu, set it as you like and just drive.
Thanks again, guys, for helping me resolving this problem!
Well... now it looks as if Profiler settings and "allow the game to adjust settings" from the profiler menu went in war at each other. Let me try to explain:
I've managed somehow to adjust the settings and started getting used to completely new wheel & cars behaviour that I was used to. Then... all of the sudden controls went completely wrong and I had to make a looot more physical move to make the car turn than before it. So it went like this at one race.
At the second race however... controls went back even further from as it were before and increased sensitivity so much that I didn't have to make more than 90 degree physical moves to be able to steer from completely right to completely left .
Then I shot down the Profiler. Sensitivity went low, not in terms of response, but in terms of physical to ingame moves. Then I turned it back on. Move sensitivity was on again
It's really weird, I don't know what to do now. Not ever turn on the Profiler and set the controls only in LFS to what it suits me or to play with Profiler and risk having sudden complete changes in control settings and car handling?
It appears that the Profiler and LFS have some kind of conflict... and it just makes me not wishing to play LFS . Getting angry with this...:chairs:
@Jason & SilverArrows - As you sugggested, I've just tried all of the USB ports that I have, but no change
@NIKI - I meant to say that I rolled back to me previous driver and it still was the same. However, I've tried to download 4.40.143.0, but I couldn't find it on the net (only driverguide who wants me to pay first).
I've managed to do something to improve the situation. I've found axis sensitivity slider in Logitech Profiler.
But to be able to adjust them, one has to load the specific game (LFS in this case) from the "Select a game" menu in main Profiler menu. When that is set and only then, "Steering Whell" "Axis properties" became "alive". I've set the sensitivity to 100%, but now it requires additional settings in LFS "Steering" menu, because it then becomes so sensitive that if I move the wheel 1cm (0.4 inch), it moves the wheel ingame enough to make a 90 degree turn.
But it DOES help reducing the delay level though... it doesn't make it disapear completely, but it reduces is to more acceptable level.
@iklucas - buttons are working just fine, instant response bothe before and after the named changes I've made in the Profiler. Gear shifts, other buttons, everything works well but axes.
@NIKI - I installed back 5.02 driver, which worked kinda well before, but it didn't help. It helped a bit only when Windows received some updates and I trully don't know if it improved for that or just "decided itself to improve"??? I've had this delay before too, but it just wasn't that much that I'm having now
@DaveWS - I get 70-80 fps usually. At SO it decreases to about 40.
@iklucas - Go to your profiler, then "Options/Global Device Settings" and uncheck the "Report combined pedal" box. My keyboard is working fine, I didn't check the response of buttons though, only the axes. I will test it tonight. Yes it's plugged well.
@z-ro 8 - I know, I've had that occasionaly as well. It helps to do the full turn opposite of the side where the wheel is facing more. But, trust me, SO chicane is just impossible to get fast with this problem. In fact, any time the car starting loosing control, the corection is quite a challange because it does reacts slow both at the begining and at the end of corection process. It comes up as late entry and late (and more than needed) exit of corection process.
Axis sensibility sliders could help in this problem maybe? But we don't have them at LFS yet, nor in Logitech profiler.
Apparently I have this problem http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=62519 and I know at least one more driver that has the same one, which this option would probably help solving it.
I've reinstalled my system two days a go, downloaded the new 5.08 driver and installed it. Then I've noticed the strange behaviour and I just wasn't able to set it right.
Then, from the cockpit view, I've noticed that the wheel was responding with delay of about 0.2-0.3 sec (compering my wheel move to the wheel move ingame). I've tried every kind of setting, adjusted "Analogue steer smooth" to 0 and everything else, but no result.
Then, last nigh I uninstalled 5.08 and installed 5.02 that I was using before and it still responded with the same delay.
Tonight though, I tried the game and it was improved . Not that it was gone completely, but it turned back to delay of about 0.1 sec (as I had before the reinstalling Windows process). Since last night, I've downloaded and installed Windows updates, as usual when doing reinstalation process (don't know if that had any effects on the problem).
But now I'm curious... I want this delay to be gone forever, no matter how small it can be.
Does anyone know if this is the LFS settings problem, hardware problem or Windows problem? Did any of you have similar issues?
Tnx in advance
I'm currently running Windows XP SP2 (should be updated to SP3 throught Windows update).
EDIT:
The delay is not only present in wheel, but in pedals too
EDIT:
screenshot of my controls menu
Last edited by sermilan, .
Reason : screenshot of the menu
@Papax - how about organizing a MRT league? I mean, you can have the server organized the way you've describe it (proved to be fun ) for 7 days a week, but just take an hour of that time to organize race(s)?
I'd like that and probably some of the other racers would too?