Made a copy of the object on which the drops will come, then gave that copy a water material. Then with vray's displacement mod made the drops, using bump map (made in photoshop). Remember to use "water level" setting in displacement.
IOR isn't matter of the thickness.. glass material usually has ~1.5-1.6 IOR. and becouse all objects have two surfaces light travels through the AIR/GLASS and then again through GLASS/AIR surface so it's not becouse IOR either
(RAYs bend 2 times so bending is +/- 0)
And yes my object has thickness (~4mm) so it behaves like real glass. IOR is 1.6
One big thing is materials, very detailed and clear model will look very crappy with crappy materials.
I don't know anything about selling models but I think that if you are a newbie, you should buy materials also.
It's very difficult to make realistic materials (well maybe not for everyone) ie. that rubber material in that wheel took me many hours to get sorted out.
Ok here's the front render of the light (Inner parts, without the reflector glass).
It's quite bright so you might want to tweak the highlight levels in photoshop.
Don't know if it looks any better if put to texture instead of the original but you can try.
Please show the result if you do.
Hi Orion! why haven't you been online in ICQ recently?
Kryten: it sure looks like there would be a car in there, but there is not The reflections are from hdri and hdri contains no car in it
But you sure have eagles eyes
XCNuse: It's not a bump map Tire treads are made with displacement, so it's 'modeled' not by hand though. Side texts are however made by bump map.
here's a closer pic (materials aren't right on this one) http://koti.mbnet.fi/clancdu/audirim3.jpg
Car took about that 3months to do since I'm doing this in my spare time and only for fun. Modeling was done last winter.
Don't know any really good tutorials to do headlights, but I've done them like this:
Modeled the glass part, added shell modifier (or solidify in older max versions) to give it some depth. Added bump/displacement map on inner side of the glass.
Then modeled the inner parts as detailed as I could. (used some displacements there too).
Tail light have the same idea, but are much more difficult to do imo, since you rarely get good reference pics for them to do the geometry right.
But again, pump/disp. map on innerside of the glass(some artists puts it on outer side, since it looks better like that when looked from farther off, but that's not realistic though). And model the inner parts. And then ofcourse it needs the colors. That can be done by blend/mix maps using masks or so.
I have MS FF (USB) wheel and bought anotherone but without FF (USB also).
The non-FF version wheel had just a small circuit in it so I ripped it of and unplugged/cut unneccessary wires.
Then sawed the other pedals half and fitted the circuit simply there.
Only problems were with calibration, coz there's just one potentiometer left in other pedals I had to try manually center the pedal during the calibration to get the full clutch movement working in games.
Don't know if there's some programs that would make this easier(?)