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I will agree that the turbo physics and the fxo's changes need to be addressed before (or in tail with) any further balancing takes place. It is great to know that the balancing configurations can be worked rather easily in a couple of minutes. This is part of the reason why we can dial in the cars now, then allow for the suttle changes. After balancing the cars in the games current state, we will have a great base for the patch changes to come, and will only have to make slight adjustments to those cars changed.
If the fxo is getting heavier and skinnier tires, we can then lessen the ballast, and maybe lessen any intake restriction to bring it back even with the other TBO's. The other TBO cars will be already be balanced to each other respectively, and only the fxo will have to be brought back in to spec to the other TBO cars.
That being said, changing or, in better terms, FIXING the turbo physics will absolutely change every turbo car in the game. For the TBO cars, full boost should be acheived at highest around 3000rpm.... this is keeping in mind the average turbo size on a stock 2.0L (ish) turbocharged car. Right now it seems like each turbo car has a turbo 50% larger than what a stock car would have. In the RB4's case, full boost isnt reached until 5000+rpm! I imagine putting a diesel's big turbo into a inline 4 cylinder car with the wastegate set at .8bar. That motor will have a hell of a time spooling that turbo.
I think the turbo characteristics for the XRR and FXR are alright at best, again ofcourse it could use some tweaking. But you essentially have a race car runing nearly 2bar that would probably have a moderately large sized turbo, and you'd have to expect some lag. There are alot of factors that play a part in how fast a turbo will spool, including cam specifications, collector size and length, turbine size, backpressure, load, ambient air temperature, exhaust characteristics, ignition and fuel injection tuning, etc etc etc.
One small note that i'd like to mention, i have noticed in patch W10 that the shift light for the RB4 comes on alot later than it used to. I find the light coming on around 7000rpms, where it usually came on before in the low 6000s.... unless i am ofcourse imagining things
Another thing i'd like to add. If any of you have messed around with LFS TWEAK in patch V, you will notice the flaws in the current turbo -> engine physics, and how they relate and interact with eachother.
You can make an N/A V8 5.0L car with 500 hp/tq, in which the engine will perform a certain way.
Take that same configuration, throw in 45lbs of boost. Now, as all of you should know, in most turbo cars you can theoretically accelerate close to redline without entering into boost. So, in this situation you should be able to accelerate with a certain amount of throttle without boost to redline and acheive the same ammount of acceleration as you would with the same throttle position in the N/A version. It does not act the same. For some reason, even though the car does not enter boost, there is significantly and noticeably more power in the boosted car with NO boost, suggesting flaw somewhere in the equation.
I hope i didnt lose anyone there...
If the fxo is getting heavier and skinnier tires, we can then lessen the ballast, and maybe lessen any intake restriction to bring it back even with the other TBO's. The other TBO cars will be already be balanced to each other respectively, and only the fxo will have to be brought back in to spec to the other TBO cars.
That being said, changing or, in better terms, FIXING the turbo physics will absolutely change every turbo car in the game. For the TBO cars, full boost should be acheived at highest around 3000rpm.... this is keeping in mind the average turbo size on a stock 2.0L (ish) turbocharged car. Right now it seems like each turbo car has a turbo 50% larger than what a stock car would have. In the RB4's case, full boost isnt reached until 5000+rpm! I imagine putting a diesel's big turbo into a inline 4 cylinder car with the wastegate set at .8bar. That motor will have a hell of a time spooling that turbo.
I think the turbo characteristics for the XRR and FXR are alright at best, again ofcourse it could use some tweaking. But you essentially have a race car runing nearly 2bar that would probably have a moderately large sized turbo, and you'd have to expect some lag. There are alot of factors that play a part in how fast a turbo will spool, including cam specifications, collector size and length, turbine size, backpressure, load, ambient air temperature, exhaust characteristics, ignition and fuel injection tuning, etc etc etc.
One small note that i'd like to mention, i have noticed in patch W10 that the shift light for the RB4 comes on alot later than it used to. I find the light coming on around 7000rpms, where it usually came on before in the low 6000s.... unless i am ofcourse imagining things
Another thing i'd like to add. If any of you have messed around with LFS TWEAK in patch V, you will notice the flaws in the current turbo -> engine physics, and how they relate and interact with eachother.
You can make an N/A V8 5.0L car with 500 hp/tq, in which the engine will perform a certain way.
Take that same configuration, throw in 45lbs of boost. Now, as all of you should know, in most turbo cars you can theoretically accelerate close to redline without entering into boost. So, in this situation you should be able to accelerate with a certain amount of throttle without boost to redline and acheive the same ammount of acceleration as you would with the same throttle position in the N/A version. It does not act the same. For some reason, even though the car does not enter boost, there is significantly and noticeably more power in the boosted car with NO boost, suggesting flaw somewhere in the equation.
I hope i didnt lose anyone there...
Last edited by theycallmeebryan, .
+1, this issue needs to be addressed.
Can someone make my rims? Ive tried to make split spoke rims in bespoke but i just cant get it to look right....
HP Evo Racing 18x8
HP Evo Racing 18x8
Bob, what exactly are RAF values. Can you explain that a bit more?
I like my method. It can also be applied to real life if you have actual weight and know your gear ratios. Ofcourse, since we know that LFS has 85% efficiency rate to the wheels (15% drivetrain loss) in all cars, we can make a direct and accurate conclusion. However, there are many factors in real life that can change that. Using my method in real life would generally give you a good assumption. Oh, and there are many ways to make homemade g-force meters, for example using a tube with water and a marble inside....just search the internet.
I think it would be awesome if in the future of lfs they made it possible to be able to actually tune the engine. Adding different size exhaust manifolds/headers, selecting different camshaft profiles (Duration, Lobe seperation, overlap, etc), actually being able to adjust ignition and fuel injection timing. We all know that one engine setup isnt the best for every track, just like one camber and tire pressure setting isnt the best for every track. With alot of work, im sure it could be done. Ofcourse it all involves alot of very complicated mathematical formulas, but if the Devs really want to prove that they arent lazy, they could pull it off.
If I created this game and was part of the DEV team, i would see it as an oppurtunity to step over the mountain that has seemed to hault many racing sims of this day.
I like my method. It can also be applied to real life if you have actual weight and know your gear ratios. Ofcourse, since we know that LFS has 85% efficiency rate to the wheels (15% drivetrain loss) in all cars, we can make a direct and accurate conclusion. However, there are many factors in real life that can change that. Using my method in real life would generally give you a good assumption. Oh, and there are many ways to make homemade g-force meters, for example using a tube with water and a marble inside....just search the internet.
I think it would be awesome if in the future of lfs they made it possible to be able to actually tune the engine. Adding different size exhaust manifolds/headers, selecting different camshaft profiles (Duration, Lobe seperation, overlap, etc), actually being able to adjust ignition and fuel injection timing. We all know that one engine setup isnt the best for every track, just like one camber and tire pressure setting isnt the best for every track. With alot of work, im sure it could be done. Ofcourse it all involves alot of very complicated mathematical formulas, but if the Devs really want to prove that they arent lazy, they could pull it off.
If I created this game and was part of the DEV team, i would see it as an oppurtunity to step over the mountain that has seemed to hault many racing sims of this day.
Pretty cool. However......
First off i had to explain the math because not everyone knows what all of it means. Its makes it much easier to come out with the correct number using the equation rather than having the end user go searching for how to use the equation.
Secondly, It seems as though your graphs display engine output, and not torque/horsepower to the ground. This is alright, as some dynos strickly measure just the engine output leaving out transmission and drivetrain loss. However, my method allows to find out what each car is putting down the the ground because Geforce numbers are brought in to the equation, and geforce cannot be calculated without change in motion. What makes the car go? The engine makes the power which turns gears in the transmission which transmit that power in a ratio to the axles and then spins the wheels. After all that, it is the wheels that move your car... right?
The XFG does NOT put 115hp to the ground.... its more like 98-99hp. This is logical because you have a car that puts out 120hp, and then you factor in drivetrain loss; in the XFG's case, it is losing about 18-20% through the drivetrain and wheels. Just because car manufacturers market a car making 200hp does not mean it is putting 200hp to the ground.
And how is it difficult? Im sure you had to start out some way similar, making data tables and coming up with equations. I do not have the knowledge to create any problems to make this easier, as stated at the end of my initial post, so i post my initial experiment to allow for others to see the core of it. I then encouraged someone to make a program using these equations.
... I wasnt trying to steal your fame or anything, i was just making a post about what i found out. You came in here riding on a high horse and it doesnt come off to me as proper. Jump off, accept whats happened, and then maybe your posts will come off as proper.
-HK-TheStigHow to: Making Accurate Dyno Graphs for LFS!
Well guys, i have figured out how to accurately graph the power of the cars in LFS. Not sure if anyone else has done this yet, but here we go.
Here are the first two "Dyno" Graphs i have made for the XRG and XFG.
Theres an equation i found in one of my physics books that relates gforce to torque. I attempted to join this with another equation that related gear ratio, final drive, and weight to feet/second. Combining these equations, and with a bit of reading, i was able to come up with this equation....
(A) (Gforce)
(Gear Ratio x Final Drive Ratio x 0.85)
(B) (Driving Weight x Rolling Radius(ft))
Torque= A x B
Now lets apply that to making Dyno graphs for the cars in LFS....
Gforce: Press F9 in-game and you will see Lateral and Longitudenal G-force information displays under the steering meter. This is a key tool.
Gear Ratio x Final Drive: You can do these "dyno runs" in any gear, however it is easier to test in a higher gear so that the rpms do not jump up very quick. Take the Gear ratio of the gear you are in and multiply it by the final drive ratio.
0.85: Just a mathematical constant used in the equation.
Driving Weight: This is the weight of the car + driver + whatever fuel you start with. Make sure when you factor in this weight in the calculations, that you click on the Driver and Fuel tabs on the left in the garage to add those items to your race weight.
Rolling Radius: Knowing wheel specifications of each car is important. The rolling radius is half the diameter of the whole wheel (center of wheel to end of treds). (NOTE: Visit this website http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html and scroll half way down. There is a Rolling Radius calculater on that page, giving you the Rolling Radius in Millimeters. You then will need to convert this to inches, and then to feet. An easy way to do it: Take that RR number and put it in the "mm" box on this website: http://mg-jewelry.com/mmtoinches.html . This will give you the RR in FEET).
Now that you know the contents of the equation, lets go through the procedure.
First off, take out a peice of paper (unless you want to apply the data directly to excel), and make a table; 3 columns wide, left side RPM, middle is Torque, Right side is Horsepower. In the RPM column, start at 1000rpm and list down the line in 500rpm intervals until you reach the car's redline.
Secondly, for those of you without a clutch pedal, make sure you DISABLE autoclutch so that you can retreive torque readings below 2200rpm.
Lets start with the XFG. The XFG weighs 2231lbs with 1 driver and 5% fuel. The Rolling Radius of the wheels is equal to about 1 foot. As a control, i use the (Hard track) settings for every test. This means the gearing is pretty much standard. Open up Drag Strip.
The first test point will be 1000rpms. Accelerate up easy. 3rd gear is good for this car for this test. My 3rd gear ratio was 2.180 with a final drive ratio of 3.20. Get in to 3rd gear and slow down until the engine is revving at about 800rpm. Mash the gas and watch what the geforce meter reads as your engine hits 1000rpms. Do this a few times in order to get an average accurate reading. In my tests with the (hard track) gearing, 3rd gear at 1000rpm full throttle yeilded about 0.155g's. Lets plug this into our equation.
(A) (0.155)
(2.180 x 3.20 x 0.85)
(B) ( 2231 x 1 )
A x B = 59.59 ftlbs torque @ 1000rpm...
illepall
Now, in order to convert to horsepower, all you do is the following....
HP = (Torque x RPM) / 5252.... So (59.59 x 1000)/ 5252 = 11.35 HP
So , as you begin cussing at your XFG for its pitty of an automobile, you mark this down on the table. Then you will do the same exact thing, but test at 1500rpm. Then 2000. and so on....
After you get your full table of data with torque and horsepower, open up Microsoft Excel. In the left column, starting at 1000, list the RPM's in 500rpm intervals going down until you reach the redline rpm (just like you did for your data table on a peice of paper). Then the next column list the Torque numbers corresponding. Then the Horsepower numbers in the next column. Then, click on the Chart Wizard icon. Set series 1 as horsepower and series 2 as torque. Assign the horsepower series with an X value of RPM and the Y value of your horsepower numbers. Do the same for the Torque Series and torque numbers. Then you will select a Line graph, the first one. It will plot your dyno graph. Add titles and labels as you wish.
And thats it guys!!! Keep in mind, these numbers are actually power to the drive wheels (so they will not necessarily match the power information in the Info tab in the garage). I think someone should be able to make a program that automatically calculates everything using the information i provided. Unfortunetly, i dont have those skills!!!
Enjoy!!!
-HK-TheStig
http://www.hkracers.com
Here are the first two "Dyno" Graphs i have made for the XRG and XFG.
Theres an equation i found in one of my physics books that relates gforce to torque. I attempted to join this with another equation that related gear ratio, final drive, and weight to feet/second. Combining these equations, and with a bit of reading, i was able to come up with this equation....
(A) (Gforce)
(Gear Ratio x Final Drive Ratio x 0.85)
(B) (Driving Weight x Rolling Radius(ft))
Torque= A x B
Now lets apply that to making Dyno graphs for the cars in LFS....
Gforce: Press F9 in-game and you will see Lateral and Longitudenal G-force information displays under the steering meter. This is a key tool.
Gear Ratio x Final Drive: You can do these "dyno runs" in any gear, however it is easier to test in a higher gear so that the rpms do not jump up very quick. Take the Gear ratio of the gear you are in and multiply it by the final drive ratio.
0.85: Just a mathematical constant used in the equation.
Driving Weight: This is the weight of the car + driver + whatever fuel you start with. Make sure when you factor in this weight in the calculations, that you click on the Driver and Fuel tabs on the left in the garage to add those items to your race weight.
Rolling Radius: Knowing wheel specifications of each car is important. The rolling radius is half the diameter of the whole wheel (center of wheel to end of treds). (NOTE: Visit this website http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html and scroll half way down. There is a Rolling Radius calculater on that page, giving you the Rolling Radius in Millimeters. You then will need to convert this to inches, and then to feet. An easy way to do it: Take that RR number and put it in the "mm" box on this website: http://mg-jewelry.com/mmtoinches.html . This will give you the RR in FEET).
Now that you know the contents of the equation, lets go through the procedure.
First off, take out a peice of paper (unless you want to apply the data directly to excel), and make a table; 3 columns wide, left side RPM, middle is Torque, Right side is Horsepower. In the RPM column, start at 1000rpm and list down the line in 500rpm intervals until you reach the car's redline.
Secondly, for those of you without a clutch pedal, make sure you DISABLE autoclutch so that you can retreive torque readings below 2200rpm.
Lets start with the XFG. The XFG weighs 2231lbs with 1 driver and 5% fuel. The Rolling Radius of the wheels is equal to about 1 foot. As a control, i use the (Hard track) settings for every test. This means the gearing is pretty much standard. Open up Drag Strip.
The first test point will be 1000rpms. Accelerate up easy. 3rd gear is good for this car for this test. My 3rd gear ratio was 2.180 with a final drive ratio of 3.20. Get in to 3rd gear and slow down until the engine is revving at about 800rpm. Mash the gas and watch what the geforce meter reads as your engine hits 1000rpms. Do this a few times in order to get an average accurate reading. In my tests with the (hard track) gearing, 3rd gear at 1000rpm full throttle yeilded about 0.155g's. Lets plug this into our equation.
(A) (0.155)
(2.180 x 3.20 x 0.85)
(B) ( 2231 x 1 )
A x B = 59.59 ftlbs torque @ 1000rpm...
illepall Now, in order to convert to horsepower, all you do is the following....
HP = (Torque x RPM) / 5252.... So (59.59 x 1000)/ 5252 = 11.35 HP
So , as you begin cussing at your XFG for its pitty of an automobile, you mark this down on the table. Then you will do the same exact thing, but test at 1500rpm. Then 2000. and so on....
After you get your full table of data with torque and horsepower, open up Microsoft Excel. In the left column, starting at 1000, list the RPM's in 500rpm intervals going down until you reach the redline rpm (just like you did for your data table on a peice of paper). Then the next column list the Torque numbers corresponding. Then the Horsepower numbers in the next column. Then, click on the Chart Wizard icon. Set series 1 as horsepower and series 2 as torque. Assign the horsepower series with an X value of RPM and the Y value of your horsepower numbers. Do the same for the Torque Series and torque numbers. Then you will select a Line graph, the first one. It will plot your dyno graph. Add titles and labels as you wish.
And thats it guys!!! Keep in mind, these numbers are actually power to the drive wheels (so they will not necessarily match the power information in the Info tab in the garage). I think someone should be able to make a program that automatically calculates everything using the information i provided. Unfortunetly, i dont have those skills!!!
Enjoy!!!
-HK-TheStig http://www.hkracers.com
Wheel Specs of all cars
Is there anyone that can tell me accurate wheel specifications of the drive wheels of all the cars. For example the XRG has a rear wheel size of 220/50 R16. Thanks in advance....
One bug i found.... when placing the keep left or keep right signs, in the game they are opposite... so if i were to post keep left in LYTe, save it, and open it in LFS, there would actually be a keep right sign there instead.
You NEED to release support for all the tracks. LYTe is my new favorite tool and ive made some really nice, clean, and precise layouts with it, and i would like to extend that to the circuit tracks and such.
Suggestions:
1: Allow for rotation of a group of objects on a central axis. Right now if you highlight a group of objects and try to rotate them, each object spins on its own axis, and thus the group comes apart. Make it a checkbox option whether the user wants to lock it to a central axis (so that all the objects will spin together) or to lock it to each object's own axis.
2: Polygon lasso tool. Makes it easy to select a group of objects around other objects you dont want selected.
Thats all i can think of for now....
Keep up the good work
-TheStig
You NEED to release support for all the tracks
. LYTe is my new favorite tool and ive made some really nice, clean, and precise layouts with it, and i would like to extend that to the circuit tracks and such.Suggestions:
1: Allow for rotation of a group of objects on a central axis. Right now if you highlight a group of objects and try to rotate them, each object spins on its own axis, and thus the group comes apart. Make it a checkbox option whether the user wants to lock it to a central axis (so that all the objects will spin together) or to lock it to each object's own axis.
2: Polygon lasso tool. Makes it easy to select a group of objects around other objects you dont want selected.
Thats all i can think of for now....
Keep up the good work
-TheStig
Well here is Owara Circuit.... whats good about the map you gave me is it has the section lengths right on the diagram... so in LyTe i was about to accurately measure out the length of each corner.... the track is perfect in size according to those dimensions....
here is a SS for now... i still am going to add barriers and tires and cones and goodies, then ill upload
The start is in the pits, and im actually going to make it like a real pit area as the parking lot lines are already there
What cha think?
here is a SS for now... i still am going to add barriers and tires and cones and goodies, then ill upload
The start is in the pits, and im actually going to make it like a real pit area as the parking lot lines are already there
What cha think?
although i think you may be able to change the cfg file to do it... i dunno.well, ill make it fit in the parking lot area
stew is that track meant to be a kart track?
Working on the 4th layout right now
Nice drawings man...its a great start
You need to keep a few things in mind.... drawing really really light reference lines and using precise angles for those reference lines will allow you to keep a perfect shape of the car no matter what angle it is turned at.
On the first couple of drawings, the front end of the car would be crooked if you actually stood infront of it in real life. Make sure that the front of the car is relatively perpendicular to the side of the car. You may be a little young to understand how to draw out good reference angles, but you'll learn.
I noticed in that second drawing you make a straight line to indicate a road or something. I also notice that the side of the car runs parallel with that line. The front of the car should be perpendicular to that line, and close to a 80-90* angle. You have it more like a 45* angle. Look how you made the windshield in that picture....the angle of the windshield relative to the road line is closer to how it should be.... you have the windshield around 60* to the road line... Get what im saying?
The supra and eclipse are sweet. Lets see you make a profile view of them in good proportion!
Last edited by theycallmeebryan, .
I use LyTe initially as i love the ease of panning around and placing objects. Then i will test it out in the game and make minute adjustments.
HK Racing Drift Loop Rnd 2!! By TheStig
Well here we go again, Rnd 2 of the series. There has been so much interest in rnd 1 (we had 15 guys packed in a server battling on it) that i decided to extend my talent to another layout.
Rnd 2 is a bit longer than Rnd 1, and also has more crossover transitions. Follow the signs!!! I strategically placed them so it is easy to find the correct path around the track. I have also brought the track out a bit from the pit launch area to provide more room while you are waiting to enter the track.
This track is meant for twin drifts, meaning only 2 go at a time! People in line at the start gate should wait until the people infront of them have entered the pit area (entrance is infront of the start gate) until they can go. Generally the inside car leads (in this case, the left side) as it is at a disadvantage to the first corner.
So enjoy it. Again, please do not alter this track in any way as i have spent a long time on its creation. Also, leave me credit for the track where need be.
Lets remember common sense twin rules:
1. Inside car leads.
2. Only 2 cars at a time!!! Pair does not leave until the track is cleared.
3. No bumping at all!
4. Pass (if you choose) safely, avoiding contact.
5. Have fun!
-HK- TheStig (aka BoNalls)
Rnd 2 is a bit longer than Rnd 1, and also has more crossover transitions. Follow the signs!!! I strategically placed them so it is easy to find the correct path around the track. I have also brought the track out a bit from the pit launch area to provide more room while you are waiting to enter the track.
This track is meant for twin drifts, meaning only 2 go at a time! People in line at the start gate should wait until the people infront of them have entered the pit area (entrance is infront of the start gate) until they can go. Generally the inside car leads (in this case, the left side) as it is at a disadvantage to the first corner.
So enjoy it. Again, please do not alter this track in any way as i have spent a long time on its creation. Also, leave me credit for the track where need be.
Lets remember common sense twin rules:
1. Inside car leads.
2. Only 2 cars at a time!!! Pair does not leave until the track is cleared.
3. No bumping at all!
4. Pass (if you choose) safely, avoiding contact.
5. Have fun!
-HK- TheStig (aka BoNalls)
HK Racing Drifting Loop by TheStig
Well, i made this track on 9/11/06 and its been sitting for awhile. There has been some great drifting showdowns on this track and i just want to make sure everyone gets a chance to try it out.
This track is meant for twin drifts, meaning only 2 go at a time! People in line at the start gate should wait until the people infront of them have entered the pit area (entrance is infront of the start gate) until they can go. Generally the inside car leads as it is at a disadvantage to the first corner.
Click to enlarge picture!
Blue= Pit area
Green= Start area
Red= Loop area
Green arrows and dots= foward on track
Yellow arrows and dots= means you are driving reverse on the track.... you are driving over this portion for a second time.
Enjoy and leave comments!!!
I hope noone alters this as ive spent alot of time making it a few months ago.
-HK- The Stig (aka BoNalls)
This track is meant for twin drifts, meaning only 2 go at a time! People in line at the start gate should wait until the people infront of them have entered the pit area (entrance is infront of the start gate) until they can go. Generally the inside car leads as it is at a disadvantage to the first corner.
Click to enlarge picture!
Blue= Pit area
Green= Start area
Red= Loop area
Green arrows and dots= foward on track
Yellow arrows and dots= means you are driving reverse on the track.... you are driving over this portion for a second time.
Enjoy and leave comments!!!
I hope noone alters this as ive spent alot of time making it a few months ago.
-HK- The Stig (aka BoNalls)
Last edited by theycallmeebryan, .
Not sure how i feel about these sounds. Some cars sound better, some just sound rediculous. Let me do a break down on how i feel about each car sound now....
First off, for the life-like street cars, the gear whine is TOO much compared to realism. In what average street car do you actually hear the gear whine? If it was fuel pump whine, then maybe i could understand. But even if it was, most street cars you dont hear the fuel pump unless the car is idling.
Uf1000: Sounds fine, i can live with it. Too much gear whine.
XFG: I think it sounds alright, but U30 sound was more aggressive, made the car seem more mean. Too much gear whine.
XRG: Sounds fine i guess. Although, i think i would prefer U30's sound over U32's. It was more agressive sounding and it actually sounded like a 4 cyl at high rpms. Too much gear whine.
LX4: Not sure how i feel, but there is too much gear whine. It should sound more like this.... http://video.google.com/videop ... &q=caterham&hl=en
RB4: Not sure how i feel about the new sound here. May be more muffled than U30's sound. Too much gear whine.
FXO: Sounds like crap. The FXO was one of the best sounding cars in the game, and now thats lost. This is one of the sounds that most upsetted me. Too much gear whine aswell.
XRT: Dont like the xrt sound either. It sound sound something like this http://video.google.com/videop ... 35552&q=rx7&hl=en
....again too much gear whine.
LX6: Sounds bad ass! I like the new sound. Gear whine is fine here, i guess.
RAC: Why is it so dang muffled???
Like every time you step on the gas it sounds like theres open intake, or as if someone puts their hand over the throttle body when accelerating.... i dont like it at all.
FZ5: i guess it sounds... OK. I really wish it wasnt so muffled. I like the U30 sound better. Gear whine ....maybe at low gears since the 350z has slight gear whine in 1st and 2nd gear, aswell as the porsche. Gear whine is too much right now.
UFR: Turned into a space ship. Thats all i can say.
XRR: TOO muffled. Whats up with all these muffled cars now?
MRT: Well, considering it has a street bike engine in the rear, and this sound is more like a touring bike sound, its safe to say that the sound isnt right. The gear whine is fine, because a lot of street bikes have that. Wish it sounded more like this http://video.google.com/videop ... 4467&q=zx6r&hl=en
FXO: I think this sound is great. Sounds alot like the mazda formula cars like someone had mentioned above.
F08: Too muffled. Needs to sound like the pistons want to fly out of the cylinders. Real life formula v8 cars SCREAM.
BF1:
Sounds rediculous. Patch U32 installed a suped up moped engine in to the sauber. I have already been on 3 servers already that refuse to allow the sauber just because the sound is rediculous.
GTR cars: They all sound too muffled, not realistic... blah blah blah. Not happy.
Another thing. I do not like how the "gear whine" that has been implemented is a synthetic whine. It sounds more like radio interference than actualy gear whine. I think everyone should listen to how GTR2 sounds.... they have done a very good job replicating the sounds of all the cars.
I tried to keep it honest.
First off, for the life-like street cars, the gear whine is TOO much compared to realism. In what average street car do you actually hear the gear whine? If it was fuel pump whine, then maybe i could understand. But even if it was, most street cars you dont hear the fuel pump unless the car is idling.
Uf1000: Sounds fine, i can live with it. Too much gear whine.
XFG: I think it sounds alright, but U30 sound was more aggressive, made the car seem more mean. Too much gear whine.
XRG: Sounds fine i guess. Although, i think i would prefer U30's sound over U32's. It was more agressive sounding and it actually sounded like a 4 cyl at high rpms. Too much gear whine.
LX4: Not sure how i feel, but there is too much gear whine. It should sound more like this.... http://video.google.com/videop ... &q=caterham&hl=en
RB4: Not sure how i feel about the new sound here. May be more muffled than U30's sound. Too much gear whine.
FXO: Sounds like crap. The FXO was one of the best sounding cars in the game, and now thats lost. This is one of the sounds that most upsetted me. Too much gear whine aswell.
XRT: Dont like the xrt sound either. It sound sound something like this http://video.google.com/videop ... 35552&q=rx7&hl=en
....again too much gear whine.
LX6: Sounds bad ass! I like the new sound.
Gear whine is fine here, i guess.RAC: Why is it so dang muffled???
Like every time you step on the gas it sounds like theres open intake, or as if someone puts their hand over the throttle body when accelerating.... i dont like it at all.FZ5: i guess it sounds... OK. I really wish it wasnt so muffled. I like the U30 sound better. Gear whine ....maybe at low gears since the 350z has slight gear whine in 1st and 2nd gear, aswell as the porsche. Gear whine is too much right now.
UFR: Turned into a space ship. Thats all i can say.
XRR: TOO muffled. Whats up with all these muffled cars now?
MRT: Well, considering it has a street bike engine in the rear, and this sound is more like a touring bike sound, its safe to say that the sound isnt right. The gear whine is fine, because a lot of street bikes have that. Wish it sounded more like this http://video.google.com/videop ... 4467&q=zx6r&hl=en
FXO: I think this sound is great. Sounds alot like the mazda formula cars like someone had mentioned above.
F08: Too muffled. Needs to sound like the pistons want to fly out of the cylinders. Real life formula v8 cars SCREAM.
BF1:
Sounds rediculous. Patch U32 installed a suped up moped engine in to the sauber. I have already been on 3 servers already that refuse to allow the sauber just because the sound is rediculous.GTR cars: They all sound too muffled, not realistic... blah blah blah. Not happy.
Another thing. I do not like how the "gear whine" that has been implemented is a synthetic whine. It sounds more like radio interference than actualy gear whine. I think everyone should listen to how GTR2 sounds.... they have done a very good job replicating the sounds of all the cars.
I tried to keep it honest.
Last edited by theycallmeebryan, .
I am a member of HK, granted i dont have anything stating that on my forum tag.
As an individual on the team, i have been competitive in many tournaments and began making a name for HK. I would constently have battles with -core- Viruz, Banshee, RM.... etc. To say HK is nothing is completely foolish.
Vipeness and obsolete created a mini game for LFS called "Tag-You're it!!". Its great for kicking back after a few tough races and having fun with buddies!While my opinion towards the situation lies towards the upset side, i opted to try to leave it off the forums.
For what it is, LFS is a great sim. I think my teamates feel the way they do because there used to be regular updates in the past, and now....well... there hasnt really been major ones. Sure there has been minor ones, like fixing the Hud, creating a new mini map, etc. But certain things that keep tough gamers interested havent been done lately.
All i have said is that i hope the Devs arent taking a break or being lazy. Im sure there are other people that are hoping the same.
With that being said, I,personally, am not giving up on LFS. I still play LFS from time to time, and i enjoy every minute that i play. This is probably because i am an automobile fanatic and love everything and anything about cars. I have like 12 different racing games on my computer
. I respect everyones comments here and would like if everyone could try to view all these comments being made as individual comments, and not comments made by our team. Certainly, as you can tell, there is more than one opinion within our team.
Last edited by theycallmeebryan, .
I must agree. Live for speed has been very dead. Honestly, i havent played in about a month because it just became repetitive.
I really hope they are working their ass off to push out the new patch before the holidays. I hope thats the explanation for this flat spot in development. Otherwise, i will have to lose faith in the devs at this point.
I really hope they are working their ass off to push out the new patch before the holidays. I hope thats the explanation for this flat spot in development. Otherwise, i will have to lose faith in the devs at this point.
Pro Kart Racing Rnd 1- Hurricane Harbor
First off, i must talk about my inspiration. I was at this one go kart track in NJ that was pretty awesome. I decided to start a series in LFS containing replica karting tracks around the world.
Well here it is, Rnd 1 of the Pro Karting series. Rnd 1 is a replica of the go kart track at Six Flags- Hurricane Harbor in Jackson, New Jersey. This series is intended for the MRT, as it closely resembles shifter karts.
Average width: 1.5 chalk lines wide
Suggested laps: 20
Average lap time 26-27 sec
My personal best is 25.20
Enjoy!!! Please leave comments
PS: Look for my LFS room labeled Pro Kart Racing Rnd 1 MRT
Well here it is, Rnd 1 of the Pro Karting series. Rnd 1 is a replica of the go kart track at Six Flags- Hurricane Harbor in Jackson, New Jersey. This series is intended for the MRT, as it closely resembles shifter karts.
Average width: 1.5 chalk lines wide
Suggested laps: 20
Average lap time 26-27 sec
My personal best is 25.20
Enjoy!!! Please leave comments
PS: Look for my LFS room labeled Pro Kart Racing Rnd 1 MRT
Last edited by theycallmeebryan, .
nvm i figured it out 
Last edited by theycallmeebryan, .
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