If you use coolant that's below the ambient air temperture, you start to run into major problems with condensation forming on components inside the case. Unless you're prepared to waterproof your entire motherboard (down to individually coating each component) it's just not worth it. And yes, it'd burn out a mini-fridge - it's just not designed for that kind of heat-dump.

Quote from Crashgate3 :

If you use coolant that's below the ambient air temperture, you start to run into major problems with condensation forming on components inside the case. Unless you're prepared to waterproof your entire motherboard (down to individually coating each component) it's just not worth it. And yes, it'd burn out a mini-fridge - it's just not designed for that kind of heat-dump.

Condenstation.. Right So it's a no go. I still dont understand how it would "Burn out" the fridge. Seems kind of strange.

Oh well regular watercooling will probably be fine for what I do anyway

Quote from AjRose :

I still dont understand how it would "Burn out" the fridge. Seems kind of strange.

Fridges aren't designed to constantly pump heat out of the system. They get things down to maybe 5 degrees C, then turn themselves off. Once the system gets too warm, they switch back on for a bit and pump out the tiny amount of heat that's managed to seep in through the heavily insulated sides. Having the motor on constantly, on full power would kill it.

Quote from Crashgate3 :

If you use coolant that's below the ambient air temperture, you start to run into major problems with condensation forming on components inside the case. Unless you're prepared to waterproof your entire motherboard (down to individually coating each component) it's just not worth it. And yes, it'd burn out a mini-fridge - it's just not designed for that kind of heat-dump.

Back in the old AXP days, I used winter for my yearly OC session. I just put the case out in the -10 -15 C temperature, and let it cool down. Then turned on, ran the tests. It didn't even have time to warm up hehe Suprisingly, the mobo read correct temps even under 0.

haha

There's a few people on tech forums I go on who have done some torture tests with the PC outdoors in freezing temperatures.

That's freezing *ambient* temperature though so the condensation I mentioned before wouldn't be a problem. You'd need antifreeze in your water-loops though

Quote from Crashgate3 :

Fridges aren't designed to constantly pump heat out of the system. They get things down to maybe 5 degrees C, then turn themselves off. Once the system gets too warm, they switch back on for a bit and pump out the tiny amount of heat that's managed to seep in through the heavily insulated sides. Having the motor on constantly, on full power would kill it.

Ehhh............. a fridge works a bit different here then you say. Using the system of a frigde means he can get temps around -30 gr max. Your fridge may seem 5 gr but that takes some effort to get there.

A frigde works through gas which becomes liquid. During the period its gas it reach around -30gr. Because the inside of the frigde is warmer the gas will absorbe the heat. The gas becomes warm and looses power and becomes liquid. By cooling it down again at the back of a fridge it will liquify again and the process starts again. This is very basic how a fridge works but thats it. So your 5gr is done by the thermostate and not by the system it self. That can reach up to -30gr if you let go. Before the motor will stop you have to reach a temp from around 100gr or higher. Thermal shut of build in egine.

There are several mods out that people used this system to cool down the cpu. And it works great. 1 thing keep to in minf is the condensation which has been said here before.
But witha old frigde you can make a hell of a cooling app for your pc.

Bump.

I've decided to still buy a water cooling system. With that, a new case. Something like the Coolermaster CM690. And then 2 of these for VGA cooling. I couldn't find other VGA coolers for 2 4850's. I've been looking on Koolance's website, but it is extremely priced. But I heard it is (one of) the best. I can spend 600 euro on it, but I just find it to much money. And I don't want to buy some other cheap crap, so maybe some of you can help me. And no, I don't want to do major overclocking, but my VGA is getting quite hot (both 100 degrees celcuis) under full load.
I am planning to cool both VGA's and CPU.

Thanks in advance

If you buy GTX series videocard, check out youtube. Find user named "trubitar" - he has tested same kind (maybe same) of watercllong block and he has howto videos - how to install this waterblock and stuff

Im staying with ATi

Can`t you use the fan at 40-45% ? The one that comes with the card. Make a new catalyst profile, manually set it, and you`re good to go.. Temporarily i mean, because 100deg. is.. well..
There will be a little sound problem.. But if you use headphones it`s quite bearable.

About watercooling, can`t contribute right now, sorry, in a month or so i`ll start researching it myself.. The hissing sound is getting on my nerves, but the temps are quite low .

Well, the fan is was 100% and the temps still get high then. But I think I got a bit too much for my small case, which aint no good for the airflow. And the sound is quite alot anoying. So I just want to go to WC.

My watercooling setup is fantastic, I'm so glad I did it. It wasn't that hard to put together either, just a bit fiddly. Didn't have any problems with leaks or spills.

The only thing standing in your way really is expense. If you're cool woth paying a few 100 more than you would with air-cooled kit then go for it

Quote from Crashgate3 :

My watercooling setup is fantastic, I'm so glad I did it. It wasn't that hard to put together either, just a bit fiddly. Didn't have any problems with leaks or spills.

The only thing standing in your way really is expense. If you're cool woth paying a few 100 more than you would with air-cooled kit then go for it

That's good to hear. How much did you spent? And what brand and what components do you cool?
Btw, I was looking at 2 of these, alot cheaper then the koolance ones.

I've got a GT Black Ice radiator, a Laing DCC pro pump with XSPC plexi top and an EK-supreme CPU block. I've not got the VGA in the loop yet.

It cost me about £200 for all the components.

The forums here I found really helpful. The shop's great value too and as it's just run by two guys, the support is brilliant as it's all nice and personal.

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/forums
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk

I'll have a look thanks.

I did a small drawing of what I am trying. I think I will buy those WC blocks for the VGA's from that german site,or these. Still looking for the radiator etc

Yeah I saw those. But they are 2x more expensive. But I do like them more as well.

Quote from Bose321 :

I did a small drawing of what I am trying. I think I will buy those WC blocks for the VGA's from that german site,or these. Still looking for the radiator etc

You're going to need a LOT more than a small front radiator to run a CPU and two GPU blocks. Even a 120.3 would be pushed to cool all that.

A good rule of thumb is that for each CPU or GPU block, one 120mm radiator provides 'adequate' cooling and two provides 'good' cooling. So to cool all three, a 120.3 is about the minimum, ideally you want two 120.3 radiators (or three 120.2 - you get the picture).

Yes. I am thinking of a 360rad. And a Coolermaster Cosmos S case. but it's damn expensive