I believe they were refering to the paint on the head of the bolts where you insert the allen key.

wow, those motors are pretty big.

What ever you do, don't turn those motors by hand, if you do it could screw up the alignment when you put it back together and the wheel will always feel weird because one or both motors will be out of alignment.

Quote from OzRoller :

So did you manage to get rid of the squeak? which part did you oil?

Actually there seemed to be plenty of lubricant inside; it definitely wasn't the bearings. The squeak was audible even when turning the motor by hand. So I guessed it was the brushes that carry electricity to the rotating coil inside the motors; I didn't bother taking those apart.

Eventually the squeak just disappeared by itself, go figure...

Quote from DragonCommando :

What ever you do, don't turn those motors by hand, if you do it could screw up the alignment

Nah, that's not a problem; the bounds are re-calibrated when you turn on the wheel -- that's why it turns to the right and left every time you attach it.

The only thing you have to worry about is that the wheel and the mechanics are in the center position when you put it back together.

Stepper motors have to rest in a stepped position, otherwhise they will always give you lopsided FF because one will step off center to the other.

What makes you think those are stepper motors?

I say they are stepper motors because most FFB wheels use stepper motors. And as far as I know the G25 also uses them.

They are not just ordinary stepper motors though, they are designed specificaly for Force feed back.

Quote from intgr :

Here you go: http://www.juffo.org/imgs/g25_disassembled/

Apologies for shitty lighting.

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THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH
now i know what to do when i take the clamps off my wheel for my driving cabinet.
http://www.polepositiondriver. ... =3&t=257&start=30

YOU LEGEND

anyone know where i can get a spring for the shifter...i cut mine for more resistance...cut too much, too much resistance for me, and sequential downshift doesnt work for me .

Quote from logitekg25 :

anyone know where i can get a spring for the shifter...i cut mine for more resistance...cut too much, too much resistance for me, and sequential downshift doesnt work for me .

Cant you over stretch the spring a little bit so its then a little longer.

Quote from danthebangerboy :

Cant you over stretch the spring a little bit so its then a little longer.

the legnth is not the problem, the force applied to the spring is spread among less metal than normal, making it stiffer...i am going through a bunch of pen springs hoping to find a temporary fix

What spring are you talking about? AFAIK there is only one 'shifter spring' and that's the one holding the ball against the metal plate. Shortening that shouldn't make it stiffer, just too short to hold the ball. There's the pusher springs for the left/right force, but adding a couple of rubber bands will tighten that right up.

If you want to add a little force to the ball spring, here's a simple but effective way to do it, with the added bonus of getting rid of the annoying 'click' when you shift:

Get a cheap or old network cable. Cut about 0.75cm (about 1/3") of the insulation. Get the ball and push it into the cable insulation. Don't push it all the way in, just enough to make it stick. Get the spring, and push it in the other side (should be a tight fit). Put that assembly back in the shifter and enjoy.

On the subject of sequential downshifts...
Check the pot meter to the right of the shifter. It should fight into its slot really tightly, but doesn't. Get a piece of paper about 1cm wide, and 4 cm long. Fold it over a couple of times so you get a 1x1cm folded piece, and stick that in the slot so the pot gets pushed towards the back of the shifter (up). Downshifts should now work just fine.