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(5560 posts, started )
#1451 - Blackout
Awesome. Your crazy posts really go well with your pictures.
#1452 - SamH
Is it warm enough in Finland to go sleeveless already!?
#1453 - spankmeyer
Quote from SamH :Is it warm enough in Finland to go sleeveless already!?

Yesterday yes, today no.
#1454 - (SaM)
I'm preparing my gear for a photo report of the national holiday festivities: Queens Day. (No, not those queens, the Queen's birthday). Fully charged, going to shoot everything worth shooting and have a beer while I'm at it.

One thing though, I'm sure people will ask me for a card so they can look up their photos, which I don't have. Any ideas how I can easily refer them to a URL they can remember?
#1455 - (SaM)
#1456 - Billeh
#1457 - superstix
My kit + photos
#1458 - spankmeyer
Here's some Vappu festivity pics from Thursday and Friday. Lé tired after a short night so didn't have much motivation to dick around in Lightroom.







Sorry 'bout teh hueeg watermraks. Don't know how to make 'em smaller in LR without exporting to a larger size.
#1459 - mrodgers
Spankmeyer, you always appologize for your watermark. They don't look too big at all. Quite unobtrusive actually.

My kids would love that balloon. We just picked up Bolt on DVD and they can't stop watching it. I enjoyed it as well, just not enough to watch it 300 times a day for the past week,
#1460 - Migz
I need some help with the post photo stuff :/
I take my photos in the RAW/ARW format. And then i convert them to JPEG's using "Image Data Lightbox SR" which came on a CD which came with my sony camera.
I then convert these photos to a smaller jpeg using another programme.

In the end i have 3 folders.
A RAW folder with my RAW files in.
A RawJpeg folder with my Converted RAW files.
and A Jpeg folder with my converted RawJpeg files.

My RAW's look sexy, but then my RawJpeg's and my Jpeg's look crap, their not very sharp, and are slightly blurred, and its making all of my photos look shite.

Any fixes? Maybe a different programme to use? Or should i just start saving files in Jpeg format rather then RAW?
#1461 - STROBE
Quote from Migz :I need some help with the post photo stuff :/
I take my photos in the RAW/ARW format. And then i convert them to JPEG's using "Image Data Lightbox SR" which came on a CD which came with my sony camera.
I then convert these photos to a smaller jpeg using another programme.

In the end i have 3 folders.
A RAW folder with my RAW files in.
A RawJpeg folder with my Converted RAW files.
and A Jpeg folder with my converted RawJpeg files.

My RAW's look sexy, but then my RawJpeg's and my Jpeg's look crap, their not very sharp, and are slightly blurred, and its making all of my photos look shite.

Any fixes? Maybe a different programme to use? Or should i just start saving files in Jpeg format rather then RAW?

Fixes? Yep. Avoid Sony's RAW converter. It's shit. For some reason the first version of it, which came with my A100, produced brilliant images (one of the best RAW converters available for the A100's raw files) at the expense of a slow, clunky interface and no batch processing facilities. Later versions, like what was supplied with my A700, are still clunky to use but seem to have shit image quality too.

The best (apparently, this isn't something I've tried with) are SilkyPix and CaptureOne, although I just Adobe's raw converter which is ok for Sony.
#1462 - SamH
I keep everything as RAW. I don't convert an image unless I'm specifically going to export it, in which case I open the RAW in Photoshop, tweak and export directly.
#1463 - (SaM)
In addition to Strobe's comment, I also recommend never converting JPGs into new JPG files. You essentially recompress the file after it's already been compressed, turning the quality into shit, no matter what compressor or quality setting you use.

Always create JPGs from the source, the RAW image.
#1464 - Migz
Quote from SamH :I keep everything as RAW. I don't convert an image unless I'm specifically going to export it, in which case I open the RAW in Photoshop, tweak and export directly.

I would normally do that but A) I havent found anything that lets Photoshop read RAW files. And B) I need to have all my files as Jpeg's because my computer is rather old, so it takes forever to load up RAW files, and i can only load up one at anyone time.

Quote from STROBE :Fixes? Yep. Avoid Sony's RAW converter. It's shit. For some reason the first version of it, which came with my A100, produced brilliant images (one of the best RAW converters available for the A100's raw files) at the expense of a slow, clunky interface and no batch processing facilities. Later versions, like what was supplied with my A700, are still clunky to use but seem to have shit image quality too.

The best (apparently, this isn't something I've tried with) are SilkyPix and CaptureOne, although I just Adobe's raw converter which is ok for Sony.

Ahah, well ive uninstalled Sony's software and found something called "Contenta Converter" which has a 30 day trial which doesnt seem too bad so far as it can do batch processing and it can automatically resize the picture from the original. But ill check out those two as well.


Quote from (SaM) :In addition to Strobe's comment, I also recommend never converting JPGs into new JPG files. You essentially recompress the file after it's already been compressed, turning the quality into shit, no matter what compressor or quality setting you use.

Always create JPGs from the source, the RAW image.

Ahah, well i would have done this, but the sony software which i had didnt have an option to resize the image, it only had an option for selecting image quality. So i had to reconvert it again after.

Anyways thank you all for you replies I see now that Sony software = fail
#1465 - STROBE
Quote from Migz :I would normally do that but A) I havent found anything that lets Photoshop read RAW files.

lol wot

Just opened a random .arw file in Photoshop:



In the past you used to be able to download and install the camera raw module separately, but a quick glance at Adobe's website suggests that it's now locked into the product version of Photoshop/Lightroom.
#1466 - Migz
Well i cant :/ If i try it it says "Photoshop cannot open this kind of document"

Edit: My photos look slightly better using this other converter, but ive deduced i just suck at taking photos.
#1467 - mrodgers
I don't shoot RAW, I can't, don't have the capability. But I do read quite a bit on the photography forums.....

I think I've read where Photoshop doesn't support some of the older RAW formats. I don't see where you report what Sony camera you are using, nor which version of PS either.

There should be a download section to download plugins/updates/drivers/whatevertheycallthem for specific RAW file types. I'm not sure if this would only work for "legit" copies of Photoshop or not (not that I'm suggesting or accusing anything here, but probably 90% of Photoshop users are not legit....) I think I remember reading that the RAW file type updates only work on registered versions of Photoshop.
#1468 - Migz
Quote from mrodgers :I don't shoot RAW, I can't, don't have the capability. But I do read quite a bit on the photography forums.....

I think I've read where Photoshop doesn't support some of the older RAW formats. I don't see where you report what Sony camera you are using, nor which version of PS either.

There should be a download section to download plugins/updates/drivers/whatevertheycallthem for specific RAW file types. I'm not sure if this would only work for "legit" copies of Photoshop or not (not that I'm suggesting or accusing anything here, but probably 90% of Photoshop users are not legit....) I think I remember reading that the RAW file type updates only work on registered versions of Photoshop.

I'm using Photoshop CS3 and my camera is a Sony a350.
But strobe pm'd me a link to a plugin on the adobe website, which lets me open raw files in my photoshop
So thank you Strobe!
Photoshop now does everything i need, batch processing & resizing.

I'll post up in a bit the pictures i took.
#1469 - DeadWolfBones
What version of PS do you have? CS and beyond, I believe, have Adobe Camera RAW, which is what you see in that screenshot.

http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/cameraraw.html

I use Lightroom 2, which is essentially the same thing, but in a separate program and with more control (+ galleries, etc).
#1470 - DeadWolfBones
Woops, didn't see this page.
#1471 - Migz
Quote from DeadWolfBones :Woops, didn't see this page.

Oopsie haha :P


Anyways
http://migz.awardspace.com/gallery/volkswagongolf0105.htm
Ive noticed all my images look fine if their squeezed down to a smaller size, so like orignal size is 3xxx by 2xxx but if they're squeezed down to 1280x852 then they look pretty good.
I may perhaps replace all my images with original sized ones and then just use width & height tags to squeeze them down :/

Anyways C&C are welcome about my photos.
#1472 - STROBE
Quote from Migz :Anyways C&C are welcome about my photos.

I don't want to discourage you, but much better results should be possible with a nice shiny car and a Sony A350.
  • Ignoring composition which is always subjective, some of the shots look technically wrong. A couple of them are blurred, presumably due to camera shake and too long an exposure. The A350 has image stabilisation built in - no excuses!
  • One or two other images look way too noisy - as if you've left the camera on auto ISO and it's defaulted to ISO800 or more. The A350 has a lot of megapixels on a small sensor, so it does produce more noise at high ISO. Keep it under ISO400 for daytime shots.
  • Some other shots have part of the car in focus, but other parts blurred. Maybe this was intentional, but I found it distracting - make sure you use a small enough aperture to render the whole car in focus when doing the typical front or rear three-quarters shots. Keep the selective focus for detail shots like when picking out the headlamps.
Keep trying, there's plenty potential there. Just give the car a good wash and wax, and shoot it on a day with good light (I noticed your pics were taken on a typically bright but cloudy/overcast day, resulting in very flat light and blown out highlights everywhere).

PS. I don't know if you've noticed, but VW appear to have mistakenly fitted the wrong bonnet to your Golf - it doesn't fit.
#1473 - Migz
Quote from STROBE :I don't want to discourage you, but much better results should be possible with a nice shiny car and a Sony A350.
  • Ignoring composition which is always subjective, some of the shots look technically wrong. A couple of them are blurred, presumably due to camera shake and too long an exposure. The A350 has image stabilisation built in - no excuses!
  • One or two other images look way too noisy - as if you've left the camera on auto ISO and it's defaulted to ISO800 or more. The A350 has a lot of megapixels on a small sensor, so it does produce more noise at high ISO. Keep it under ISO400 for daytime shots.
  • Some other shots have part of the car in focus, but other parts blurred. Maybe this was intentional, but I found it distracting - make sure you use a small enough aperture to render the whole car in focus when doing the typical front or rear three-quarters shots. Keep the selective focus for detail shots like when picking out the headlamps.
Keep trying, there's plenty potential there. Just give the car a good wash and wax, and shoot it on a day with good light (I noticed your pics were taken on a typically bright but cloudy/overcast day, resulting in very flat light and blown out highlights everywhere).

PS. I don't know if you've noticed, but VW appear to have mistakenly fitted the wrong bonnet to your Golf - it doesn't fit.

Thank you very much This is exactly what i need, ive only just recently gotten my a350, and i really dont know how to use it, i pretty much just leave it on auto or auto with no flash as most of the time when i change things they just come out crap.

Im guessing the image stabisilation is the "Super Steady Shot" switch in the bottom right corner?

I have left the camera on auto iso, as i said before i pretty much just leave it on auto, but from now on ill remember not to have over 800 iso during the daytime.

Due to the camera being on auto i cant really choose whats in focus and what isnt, and i dont even know how to change it on this camera but ill have a look through everything for aperature.

I really am quite new to the DSLR scene so i dont have a clue on how to do anything, but i am really up for learning!

Oh and the car isnt mine, its my brothers, ive told him to clean the bloody thing and go for a drive with me so i can take some pictures of it looking nice, but he's a lazy sod haha.
#1474 - STROBE
Quote from Migz :Im guessing the image stabisilation is the "Super Steady Shot" switch in the bottom right corner?

Yes. Sony likes to give things really gay names.

Quote from Migz :I have left the camera on auto iso, as i said before i pretty much just leave it on auto, but from now on ill remember not to have over 800 iso during the daytime.

Keep it on manual. Not sure about the A350, but my A700 has the option to specify the ranges of auto ISO - eg you can leave it on auto but restrict it to 100-400 if you're outdoors for the day, or 400 - 3200 if you indoors or in low light.

Quote from Migz :Due to the camera being on auto i cant really choose whats in focus and what isnt, and i dont even know how to change it on this camera but ill have a look through everything for aperature.

Top left shoulder dial, set it to "A". Use the control wheel to change aperture. The camera will calculate the required shutter speed accordingly.

It's all in the manual.

Quote from Migz :Oh and the car isnt mine, its my brothers, ive told him to clean the bloody thing and go for a drive with me so i can take some pictures of it looking nice, but he's a lazy sod haha.

I'd still be more concerned with that crime against style called the bonnet.
#1475 - Migz
Quote from STROBE :Yes. Sony likes to give things really gay names.

Haha, fair enough.

Quote from STROBE :
Keep it on manual. Not sure about the A350, but my A700 has the option to specify the ranges of auto ISO - eg you can leave it on auto but restrict it to 100-400 if you're outdoors for the day, or 400 - 3200 if you indoors or in low light.

I dont think the A350 has that, it just has an option for either Auto, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 or 3200.

Quote from STROBE :
Top left shoulder dial, set it to "A". Use the control wheel to change aperture. The camera will calculate the required shutter speed accordingly.

It's all in the manual.

Ahah, found it, im going to have to buy a tripod if i want to change the aperature, as if the shutter speed is ever so slightly slow then my image is going to be blurred like shiz!
And im going through the manual now

Quote from STROBE :
I'd still be more concerned with that crime against style called the bonnet.

Haha, its not THAT bad is it? Ive never noticed anything wrong with it.
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Camera Showoff
(5560 posts, started )
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