The online racing simulator
The shifter is on the wrong side.
my system:

[CPU]: Intel 3930K 6 core @ 3,2 GHz ( Boost 3,8Ghz) 12mb Cache
[CPU Cooling]: Corsair H100 Watercooling ( Closed loop system]
[Ram]: Corsair Vengance 16GB DDR3-1866 CL9 quad kit
[Motherboard]: ASUS P9X79 Deluxe
[GPU]: MSI Twinfrozr GTX680 2GB
[PSU]: Seasonic Platinum Series 860W
[HDD1]: SSD: Crucial M4 256GB
[HDD2]: Samsung Spinpoint 2TB
[HDD3]: Sansung Spinpoint 500GB
[CASE]: Corsair Obsidian 800D
[Fans]: Fans Incl Fan Controller
[Monitor/tv]: Samsung syncmaster P2370HD
3 * Scythe Slip Stream 120mm 1900rpm
2 * NZXT Enthusiast Case fan 140mm (2000rpm)
[OS] Windows 7 Ultimate
Quote from DarknessPainF1 :Not if you drive on the right side

You mean left side?

EDIT: Or, as I like to put it, the United States will switch over to the metric system when England learns how to drive on the correct side of the road.
Anyone using G25/G27 with a Logitech Attack 3 joystick for handbrake? I'm wondering how much space it would take up with the H-Shifter. Also, gear knobs... how do you fit an aftermarket one? Is it as easy as a few screws?
Quote from Omar1 :Anyone using G25/G27 with a Logitech Attack 3 joystick for handbrake? I'm wondering how much space it would take up with the H-Shifter. Also, gear knobs... how do you fit an aftermarket one? Is it as easy as a few screws?

Aftermarket shift knobs are usually attached by rotating the knob (the screw-on type knob), and others by allen keys like Momo shift knobs that require a small allen key wrench to tighten bolts that secure the knob to the gear shift stick.
i have the setup you are reffering to.

DXtweak + joystick makes it work great as a handbrake

pop the plastic piece off the top of the shifter to get to the screw, unscrew it, and ya done.

pm me if you have any other questions about it, i dont moniter this thread usually, you got lucky
Quote from logitekg25 :i have the setup you are reffering to.

DXtweak + joystick makes it work great as a handbrake

pop the plastic piece off the top of the shifter to get to the screw, unscrew it, and ya done.

pm me if you have any other questions about it, i dont moniter this thread usually, you got lucky

hehe cheers, i got a wingman attack 2, its now kinda stickerbombed and i've taken the handle off and will replace it with a tube, still waiting on my g25 though

btw i didnt need DXtweak, easy to do it in lfs
Still rocking 65nm tech here, an old HP microATX case thats been stripped of everything. Cooler Master 460w PSU with hacked up casing, aftermarket fan. Have an overclocked nvidia 240GT (GDDR5 version) with an Arctic Cooling unit. Gigabyte motherboard, 4gigs of DDR3, and a 32gig SSD.

Most of those parts are recent upgrades. I've been using an e2140 for a little over 2 years now. Started off at 1.6, sat at 2.1ghz with a pin-mod on the old HP board. Got it to 2.8 on my new board. Used an HD4350 for a year and a half overclocked, before switching to my GT240, made a world of difference.

I'm not in a hurry to upgrade to new technology. Before this system I was using a socket 478 celeron for 5-6 years with no complaints. I'll get pics up once I clean my case up a bit.
New computer. About time.



Fractal Design R4 chassi
Asus P8Z77-V LX
i5 - 3570 with Corsair H60 cooling
Corsair Dominator DHX 8GB ram
Silver Power 650w psu
Sapphire Radeon HD-6850 1GB (From my old computer, might get a bigger card in a while)

OS is on a 64gb SSD but it's got 2x 1tb HDD's (One sata 3 and one sata 2 from my old computer)
Did some backside cable management on mine. Next I'm re-locating the sound card to the vertical fan controller slot to get more clearance for aftermarket GPU coolers.
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Quote from Matrixi :Did some backside cable management on mine.

Nice job, very neat and tidy.
Quote from Matrixi :[..]Next I'm re-locating the sound card to the vertical fan controller slot to get more clearance for aftermarket GPU coolers.

How ?
I don't really understand, but would be interested, 'cause placing my Xonar D2X in a normal slot makes my graphic card go VERY hot, as it obstructs the air flow.
Thanks.
Quote from amp88 :Nice job, very neat and tidy.

Thanks.

Quote from luchian :How ?
I don't really understand, but would be interested, 'cause placing my Xonar D2X in a normal slot makes my graphic card go VERY hot, as it obstructs the air flow.
Thanks.

A simple PCI-E x1 riser card/cable should work. Still trying to find one that's perfect lenght for my system, so I can't comment if there's any audio interference, but I doubt it.
Where did you get those cables? Do they go around your current cables? I am looking for such a thing myself too.
That's a shitload of cash for a few cables... I guess I'll have to look for an other way to do this I guess unless there's something for my old HX520.
You could get a few Bitfenix Alchemy extensions if you simply want individually sleeved cables for bling. Getting the full Corsair kit ended up being cheaper in my build plus they go all the way to the PSU.
Hmm.. Thanks, but I don't think extensions will suit me... maybe I can get some shrink wire (if that's the correct word in English) and shrink it around my cables. I'm working on a black-white theme so I'm planning to get all cables white.
Intel Core i5-2500K
16GB DDR3-1600
Crucial m4 256GB
2x Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB [RAID-0]
2x Samsung Spinpoint F4 2TB [RAID-1]
WD 250GB CDD (crap disk drive)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680 2GB
Creative SoundBlaster X-Fi HD
Behringer UCA-222
Seasonic X-460 fanless PSU

pretty happy with this setup atm, not planning upgrading to Ivy Bridge.
Quote from Bose321 :That's a shitload of cash for a few cables... I guess I'll have to look for an other way to do this I guess unless there's something for my old HX520.

a single sata cable costs around 10 $ so i dont think 100 is a lot for all those cables u get. if it came in blue i'd buy a kit too
Makes me want to buy a new PSU...

Post your "LFS" rig..
(3080 posts, started )
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