he meant MOMO.. lol
he meant MOMO.. lol
oops... Edited!
J.B. / AndroidXP - ah, thanks for the tip, will give that a try. Silly Logitech driver writing people.
Hello, since we're at it, could you guys help me out too?
I've got a black momo and don't have a complain about it, but if it can be configured better, i'm all for it!!
I use it like this:
logitech profiler -
100% overall
100% "first one"*
100% "second one"*
centering spring turned on (i guess it's a "check box" , right?)
pedals axis separated, of course...
In game i use 100% FFB and 0.30 Wheel Compensation
So... what should i do to make it better?
101% overall (or does it work only with DFP?)
cut to zero all the others "effects" on the logitech driver?
uncheck the "centering" box?
1.0 wheel compensation would be better? i'm using it at a value which was suggested to me by a friend but i do not know what it does mean etc
Any help would be really appreciated.
*i don't have it installed right now and i don't remember the terms, i'm sorry but anyway it's all on 100%.
could anyone *explain* to me what those "terms" means? my english isn't exactly stellar... thanks a lot
I use it like this:
logitech profiler -
100% overall
100% "first one"*
100% "second one"*
centering spring turned on (i guess it's a "check box" , right?)
pedals axis separated, of course...
In game i use 100% FFB and 0.30 Wheel Compensation
So... what should i do to make it better?
101% overall (or does it work only with DFP?)
cut to zero all the others "effects" on the logitech driver?
uncheck the "centering" box?
1.0 wheel compensation would be better? i'm using it at a value which was suggested to me by a friend but i do not know what it does mean etc
Any help would be really appreciated.
*i don't have it installed right now and i don't remember the terms, i'm sorry but anyway it's all on 100%.
could anyone *explain* to me what those "terms" means? my english isn't exactly stellar... thanks a lot
there will always be a couple of people that will have negative comments towards the g25, but if u look at a aspect ratio of people who like the wheel you will soon see clearly that it is worth every penny
when i first installed my g25 i had loads of problems setting it up correctly and took me a few hours to get it right now its a gem
when i first installed my g25 i had loads of problems setting it up correctly and took me a few hours to get it right now its a gem
Set it up like this: http://www.lfsforum.net/attach ... id=20371&d=1165055529
In LFS I'd suggest around 40% FF strength, but that's up to you. As we've just found out in this thread, you can also try to set it to 101% in the Logitech Profiler (instead of 100% like shown in the screenshot), as it apparently removes some driver induced force damping.
The forces will feel different to your momo as the wheel is different. In the same way in that if you change the speakers/amp or cd player in a good hifi it changes the sound. Neither is right/wrong just different.
Set the wheel to 720deg and wheel comp to 1. This is where the G25 comes into its own and is what the wheel is really about.
Thanks, will do.
What about LFS wheel compensation?
Well, personally I'm using 540° rotation in the Logitech Profiler, and full wheel turn compensation (1.00) ingame. Seems to work quite well for me
If you set it to 720* then it will be correctly setup for each car in the game (the car with the largest lock-to-lock is 720*). At this setting wheel compensation doesn't matter because every in-car wheel will match exactly to your wheel.
That's not true (at least for me)... I've set it to 720° and 0 compensation and it would turn 720° in every car! As I set it to 1, it turned the exact degrees the specific car had and nothing more...
wheel turn comp??
I don't know about everyone else here but I find the wheel turn compensation is an option for people who don't have a proper controller at all.
When I raced with a sidewinder joystick and only had 90 degrees of motion, wheel turn compensation helped a lot. Even if I tried to steer incorrectly, the game would keep the steering wheel at an angle that made sense for the corner I was in, because if my real input went into the game, I would lose control.
With wheel turn compensation on, I feel like there is an ai deciding where the wheel should be, and my input is factored against that pre-determined angle.
With wheel turn comp at 0, where I steer is where it goes.
Also, just as reinforcement after reading that someone has their windows settings at something other than 0% for damping and spring effect.. don't do that! LFS just does not expect that kind of interference from the operating system!
to OP - try using with the profiler?
When I raced with a sidewinder joystick and only had 90 degrees of motion, wheel turn compensation helped a lot. Even if I tried to steer incorrectly, the game would keep the steering wheel at an angle that made sense for the corner I was in, because if my real input went into the game, I would lose control.
With wheel turn compensation on, I feel like there is an ai deciding where the wheel should be, and my input is factored against that pre-determined angle.
With wheel turn comp at 0, where I steer is where it goes.
Also, just as reinforcement after reading that someone has their windows settings at something other than 0% for damping and spring effect.. don't do that! LFS just does not expect that kind of interference from the operating system!
to OP - try using with the profiler?
Wheel turn compensation just makes the steering non-linear if your current input device has less degrees of rotation available/set than the car you're driving at the moment. IF wheel turn compensation comes into effect, it gives your more precision around the centre of steering and less precision at extreme steering angles.
If your controller rotation matches that of the car, wtc has no effect at all.
If the car has less rotation than your controller, any wtc > 0.01 is the same (ingame wheel will stop before you reach your devices rotation), if wtc is 0 then the ingame wheel will rotate slower so it stops at the same time your device reaches maximum rotation.
If your controller rotation matches that of the car, wtc has no effect at all.
If the car has less rotation than your controller, any wtc > 0.01 is the same (ingame wheel will stop before you reach your devices rotation), if wtc is 0 then the ingame wheel will rotate slower so it stops at the same time your device reaches maximum rotation.
I've noticed the higher the degrees of ratotion used, the higher the force setting in lfs is necessary. e.g 20% feels totally different at 270 and 720. Lower rotation is easier to countersteer and with wheel turn comp on 1.0 the centre is still usable because it has the extra precision needed.
I dont have a G25 but I do have a DFP and I never use any sort of FF, I tried it and it felt like I was driving a bus with no power steering.
How can people react and counter-steer so fast if it feels like you're turning a boat? All I want is rumble over the kerb and complete free play, this isnt very realistic buts its how id like it.
How can people react and counter-steer so fast if it feels like you're turning a boat? All I want is rumble over the kerb and complete free play, this isnt very realistic buts its how id like it.
I used to drive with no FF, but it just felt too weird and loose. In the RWD cars you also lack feeling the rear go. I found I have to adjust the force seperately for each car though, no one value is right for all cars.
Didn't think to perhaps turn the FFB down a bit? 100% is too much for most wheels.
From what I understand this has to do with the maximum rotation speed of these wheels. When you use 200 degrees the wheel has to travel less degrees to reach a new FF centre position then with 900. Because the motor can only run as fast as his specs will let him it will tend to lag when you quickly move the wheel with a large rotations set. At 200 it can easily keep up.
I think in general people have different priorities. When you talk about reaction speed no wheel ever beat my first FF wheel: the logitech wingman FF with cable driven FF. It would flick from one extreme to the other at a speed that made you think twice of sticking you hand in there.
After it died I got myself a Force RS but I never got the feedback I had with the Logitech. In the end I just noticed it reacted too slow. It was smoother but also more vague. Never got the hang of it really. So I went back to the Wingman FF's but by that time they got geardriven and acted the same as my Act Labs.
These new large rotation wheels suffer even more from comparetively slow motors so I guess the G25, with its higher speed is the way to go. But they needs different settings.
I keep all rotation settings like they are supposed to be in LFS because that gives me the best weighted FF. When I set a GTR to 360 degrees it just doesn't feel right.
Yes well believe it or not I have actually gone through the whole force scale to see if any of them felt ok.
In a nut shell the FF to me doesnt feel real at all, its either too stiff or too slow and I never have this problem within a real car.
Perhaps its all I can expect from a £50 wheel!
Are your arms still attached to the rest of your body?
I also have it at 200% and aways wish it was stronger, however I have the crappy driving force wheel...lol
Jesus, man...
I've changed it today and went for a spin.
Turns out that now i'm regularly shaving off .1-.3 of my laps.
I didn't made any PBs yet but my "ordinary" lap is now from .1 to .3 faster on average. Consistently faster.
That's pretty cool.
The more you drive the more you will get used to the wheel and the faster you will get.
The G25 can be very subtle with its FF and gives you so much information when you learn what it is telling you. There is a setting in your ini file that you should check.
Its called forcesteps/ffsteps or something like that. If its 128 bump it to 255 as this gives more detailed FF.
well, the only main thing I have with the G25 is that I find it hard to downshift/tip-heel, the gas pedal is somehow not positioned right to the brake, at least that's what I'm experiencing, people with smaller feet maybe have different experiences
I have found the same problem with the G25 pedals. They feel pretty good, but they are positioned completely wrong. I'm planning to mod my pedals based on the pedal layout of a 911 RS. Once that's done I expect it to make a world of difference.
G25 just doesnt feel good in LFS
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