Nice discover
Nice discover
Scawen, I dunno if you noticed this thread, just posting it here for reference.
No, man, I use to have the thing off, and it would work the clutch for me on the downshifts... so I used one foot for driving. Now it doesnt work the clutchon downshifts no more... and I cant do it like I used to be able to in X prime version.
Dont make assumptions man, that's exaclty how I have been driving in LFS! No thorttle cut, no blip on downshift, and autoclutch till now, braking with my right foot. But, now that the new patch is out, it is all screwed up man. also, with autoclutch, it shouldn't wear/heat/whatever the clutch at ALL! OTher wise, wtf is point of that? lol.
I guess I will need to get a second set of pedals now. Also, I CAN drive, I can heel-toe just fine in real life as well, not kidding.
The purpose of auto-clutch is to depress the clutch so that you can change gears. However, you are still responsible for making sure that the engine revs match the drivetrain speed. Otherwise, the clutch ends up taking the brunt of the damage when it tries to make the two match. Either the tires slip or the clutch does, but the speed differential has to go somewhere.
I don't know what you think has changed. I have a 2 pedal setup and the only change to my driving is that I now lift the throttle a bit when I up-shift and respect the rev limiter on down-shifts. I'm really lost because you say you used to play with no throttle cut or blip. So you won't be missing either of those. The clutch isn't so fast on downshifts that you have no time to blip the throttle. If you were heel-toeing without auto-blip before, then just the same technique will work with X30.
well, it shure feels different to me... hmm, it's like, it has way less time to let you blip it....
I actualy tried playing with auto blip once, and was SLOWER than withought it... buy now I'm like, really slow no matter what. Ah, practice practice, practice.
I actualy tried playing with auto blip once, and was SLOWER than withought it... buy now I'm like, really slow no matter what. Ah, practice practice, practice.
You do not need to use the clutch on the FBM, or any of the other sequentially shifted race cars, just like you don't IRL. If you turn auto-clutch on in LFS with one of those cars it will simply help you pull away and stop you stalling it. It won't do anything on gear shifts.
Actually its not a bug, but its strange,weird and very unreal...
I hote it will be fixed...Maximal FOV in FBM
I hote it will be fixed...Maximal FOV in FBM
I suspect that FOV probably suits a triple-head setup. That, or something with a really really wide screen
Yea, I see now, that its not a problem only with the FBM...
Maybe so, but unlike the others, the FBMW is real (ok, we all know the FO8 is an F3000 and FOX a Formula Renault, but they don't claim to be). This is how they are on an FBMW.. changing them to big mickey mouse displays like the other open-wheelers would both be wrong for the car and possibly upset whoever's involved with this BMW deal as it'd make it look cheap and nasty and non-accurate.
I doubt very much that there's a lot that's really readable on the display sitting in the real thing whilst hurtling around tracks.. there's really no reason to even be looking at it while on the move, is there? Surely people know how many laps worth of fuel they put in before they started.. and that's the only thing that needs to be thought about, IMO
Regards,
Ian
i'm using this custom cam in the fbm and it feels pretty good
http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/1219/customviewfbmsk5.jpg
http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/1219/customviewfbmsk5.jpg
I don't know what happened. I turned around and drove backwards a little, and the clutch engaged going backwards. I turned around and the game said my clutch was off, but the car drove like it was on. After ther race on the SO highway:
OT but:
I can't understand why people requested the 120 degree limit to be upped. I mean if people want to use 160 degrees, that's fine, but even on my triple screen setup I only run 100 degrees (similar to 60ish on a single screen), 120 looks weird and 160 is ridiculous even on a 4:1 aspect ratio.
/OT
I can't understand why people requested the 120 degree limit to be upped. I mean if people want to use 160 degrees, that's fine, but even on my triple screen setup I only run 100 degrees (similar to 60ish on a single screen), 120 looks weird and 160 is ridiculous even on a 4:1 aspect ratio.
/OT
You order the differential type with the gearbox, either a free diff, or for an extra few hundred quid, you get a powerflow differential. From what I can tell... it's pretty damn adjustable!
Which looks like this:
http://www.hewland-engineering.com/drawings/egt.pdf - page 13
it has 11 friction plates and is adjustable in 3 ways.
Available gear ratios include:
And for good measure, their reccomendations on changing gear with a sequential:
I'd hope most drivers have a rough idea because there would be no fuel gauge on the real thing (and I very much doubt it would even have a warning light). IRL the display would be used to display laptimes and engine instrumentation, something we don't have to worry about in LFS (yet)
The actual Formula BMW gearbox/clutch/diff will either be fixed in the regulations (most likely) or even a sealed unit. A real Formula BMW racer has already posted that they had fixed power and coast settings. Whatever you can do with the LSD though the viscous and locked differentials still need to go.
I don't quite understand why this is the case but at least it supports my claim that it should be easier to blip on downshifts than it is at the moment in LFS.
If you're not pressing the clutch, then you can't blip the revs (the engine is connected to the wheels, so the blip has nowhere to go). I'm sure you understand that bit.
The touching the throttle (on the clutchless downshift) isn't to blip the revs, but to unload the dogs. In the few milliseconds the shift takes you either hope the revs are close enough for the dogs to engage (and hope it doesn't snatch the rear wheels), or your force it in and lock your wheels, or you get a horrid grinding noise as your dogs get smaller, and the oil in your 'box get's slightly more metally. But if successful (which with close gearing and race rubber it usually is) it's a very quick way to shift gear.
However, using the clutch will provide a time to blip the throttle, allowing dogs, engine, wheels and the road to all be going at the same speed, and thus being easier on everything (and not spinning you round as much). A good jab on the clutch, with a nice big heel&toe movement, will see a lovely gearchange nearly every time, with very little time penalty.
I think that's right. Correct me if I'm not.
The touching the throttle (on the clutchless downshift) isn't to blip the revs, but to unload the dogs. In the few milliseconds the shift takes you either hope the revs are close enough for the dogs to engage (and hope it doesn't snatch the rear wheels), or your force it in and lock your wheels, or you get a horrid grinding noise as your dogs get smaller, and the oil in your 'box get's slightly more metally. But if successful (which with close gearing and race rubber it usually is) it's a very quick way to shift gear.
However, using the clutch will provide a time to blip the throttle, allowing dogs, engine, wheels and the road to all be going at the same speed, and thus being easier on everything (and not spinning you round as much). A good jab on the clutch, with a nice big heel&toe movement, will see a lovely gearchange nearly every time, with very little time penalty.
I think that's right. Correct me if I'm not.
My problem with the above quote is that touching the throttle while braking would IMO increase the load on the dogs, not decrease it. And the original complaint I had was that if you touch the throttle before the downshift in LFS then you can't change gear.
AFAICT there can only be three posibilities for clutchless sequential downshifting:
1) Blipping on downshift is impossible without clutch.
2) Blipping needs to be timed to take place in exactly the split second in which neither gear is engaged.
3) The gear will disengage even if some throttle is being applied so the blip can be initiated a teeny little bit before moving the gear lever.
I know 1 isn't true, 2 seems impossible because there is no time so that only leaves 3. LFS is at 2. And if I understand you correctly you are somewhere between 1 and 2.
AFAICT there can only be three posibilities for clutchless sequential downshifting:
1) Blipping on downshift is impossible without clutch.
2) Blipping needs to be timed to take place in exactly the split second in which neither gear is engaged.
3) The gear will disengage even if some throttle is being applied so the blip can be initiated a teeny little bit before moving the gear lever.
I know 1 isn't true, 2 seems impossible because there is no time so that only leaves 3. LFS is at 2. And if I understand you correctly you are somewhere between 1 and 2.
When you are braking, the gears are being driven by the road. When you touch (blip) the throttle, won't the engine begin to drive them, with the result that the dogs are momentarily unloaded? Or do I need to sit down and think about why the throttle touch (blip) a) works and b) is recommended by Hewland themselves.
I did sit down and what I came up with is that the brakes and the engine are playing tug of war.
In the higher gear the wheels are trying to slow down the engine so extra throttle will increase gear load. Then once the lower gear is engaged the wheels are trying to accelerate the engine (because of the sudden change of speed ratio) so increasing throttle will reduce gear load.
Right?
EDIT: or actually it depends on how fast the revs of the engine want to drop when you come off the throttle compared to how fast the brakes want them to drop. If the engine wants to drop fast (low inertia) then a touch of throttle will unload the gears. If the engine is slow in losing revs (high inertia) then throttle will only make things worse.
So is engine inertia the major factor in defining how hard/easy it is to blip on downshifts?
In the higher gear the wheels are trying to slow down the engine so extra throttle will increase gear load. Then once the lower gear is engaged the wheels are trying to accelerate the engine (because of the sudden change of speed ratio) so increasing throttle will reduce gear load.
Right?
EDIT: or actually it depends on how fast the revs of the engine want to drop when you come off the throttle compared to how fast the brakes want them to drop. If the engine wants to drop fast (low inertia) then a touch of throttle will unload the gears. If the engine is slow in losing revs (high inertia) then throttle will only make things worse.
So is engine inertia the major factor in defining how hard/easy it is to blip on downshifts?
Erm, yes.
Sod it, just use the clutch on downshifts
Sod it, just use the clutch on downshifts
And it is really hard to hold 80 in the pits without limiter :P
I know it's so in real, but it's a bit stupid that i have to lean forward every time i have to pit
Well, we'll see..
Hold 75 then, so you have a little more margin for error?
I ment it's hard to hold the speed, if you can't read the speedo :P
I can hold the speed with all other cars without limiter, thats not my point
I can hold the speed with all other cars without limiter, thats not my point
BUG REPORTS : Formula BMW
(133 posts, started )
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