Hi! I've been trying for ages to see about getting a WR in LFS but I am almost never close. My best time is around SO Classic with MRT5, I am only 0.5 off the WR but what I want to know is that I've been talking to a lot of people about WR setting and I was told that the WR racers use certain bugs in the physics of the game and exploit them e.g. (high nose with FOX and FO8). I don't understand how a high nose would help so please explain . My main request here is if someone could post the different exploits of the game that they know so that all of us people who are eager LFS racers can get closer to that WR. Thanks!

for the high nose what happens is, if you notice in force view, even without downforce on the FV8, the undertray still produces downforce, and they raise the nose of the FV8 so that the downforce created by the undertray 'pushes' the car forward (not by alot, but enough to make a difference)

You tried turning off the "engine cut on upshift" option off?

Quote from Stellios :

You tried turning off the "engine cut on upshift" option off?

I wouldn't call that exactly as a exploit. The problem with that is the fact that LFS doesn't have engine damage.

And as far as I know some race cars have an automatic cut?

The aero bug is the only bug to be exploited, at least the only one we really know of and I refuse to use a high-nose setup :P

It isn't just slightly unrealistic but it looks plain stupid Anyway.. even if there's only very few people who share my opinion, I still stay with it. illepall

AFAIK the engine still loses power when overreving it so staying on the pedal probably makes you slower over time. I got throttle cut on up- and downshift turned off and lifting the gas pedal on upshift and tip the pedal on downshift (you might spin otherwise, and its more fun while downshifting ).

1. I also refuse to use high-nose setups. I'm more likely to leave the server due to in-compatitiveness before I try a high-nose setup.
2. Yes, the engine does suffer from engine-damage. I use a FFB-shifter and I really produce some bad shifts. When I accidently shift from fourth to first the engine really suffers damage. But this damage only begins around 150% of the red line. That means when the redline is at 8000 rpm you can safely rev to 12000 before the engine takes noticable damage.
If you want to try it: Drive in 4th gear, stay on the gas and shift down until 1st with your foot on the gas. Then try to come anywhere near your pb. Impossible.

Vain

Quote from deggis :

I wouldn't call that exactly as a exploit. The problem with that is the fact that LFS doesn't have engine damage.

And as far as I know some race cars have an automatic cut?

how do i change that option? i cant find it!

It's banging around in options somewhere. Just keep looking, I'll go and have a gander now and find it . . . .

Quote from Vain :

2. Yes, the engine does suffer from engine-damage. I use a FFB-shifter and I really produce some bad shifts. When I accidently shift from fourth to first the engine really suffers damage. But this damage only begins around 150% of the red line. That means when the redline is at 8000 rpm you can safely rev to 12000 before the engine takes noticable damage.

But the engine damage is still very minimal. With flatshifting you can notice it too in long endurance races in some cars (only XRR and FXR, some say LX6 too?). "Pop-corn" was the term for that.

Quote from Jakg :

how do i change that option? i cant find it!

options / player

I get popcorn in the xfr after about 20 laps, doesn't seem to be affecting lap times noticeably at that point though...

hmmmmm, so does this actually damage the engine then? what are the "best" setttings?

Quote :

Apparently locked diffs are more beneficial than they ought to be, so they tend to get used a lot too, but whether that can be called an exploit or not I don't know.

AFAIK, there is no car except for drag races that uses locked diffs in real life, even for races. So I would call it an exploit.

To an extent thats not true I've used a locked diff in my 1/10th r/c touring car and it certainly helped the handling and no it wasn't a drag race. It's a proper track with many corners

Keiran

Quote from Jakg :

hmmmmm, so does this actually damage the engine then? what are the "best" setttings?

The best settings are to turn throttle cut/blip off and do it yourself. Your feet aren't stuck at any one position on the throttle pedal, so you can lift it yourself when you shift.

Quote from mrodgers :

The best settings are to turn throttle cut/blip off and do it yourself. Your feet aren't stuck at any one position on the throttle pedal, so you can lift it yourself when you shift.

And it's more fun.

Vain

Quote from deggis :

only XRR and FXR

yes ... those are turbo cars with a lot more hich end torque than the fzr so the engine will have a tendency to rev higher

Quote from keiran :

To an extent thats not true I've used a locked diff in my 1/10th r/c touring car and it certainly helped the handling and no it wasn't a drag race. It's a proper track with many corners

and lets not forget that all 1/8 onroad cars use lockes diffs (or rather no diffs at all) and those are by far the fastes rc cars

Another exploit would be full throttle at the start with road cars. It doesn't matter for WR, but you can get the best possible time in a drag race or training with weak FWD cars for example. No engine cut on upshift. Full throttle and just change gear if light is on.

It does how however matter drastically for the start in a race. Try it with FXO street, GTI, GT and so on ... best start possible.

Quote :

and lets not forget that all 1/8 onroad cars use lockes diffs (or rather no diffs at all) and those are by far the fastes rc cars

I have little experience with rc cars (competition rc cars, not rc cars just for fun), but I've seen a couple of races, and the drivers were not using locked diffs or no diffs.

Quote from mrodgers :

The best settings are to turn throttle cut/blip off and do it yourself. Your feet aren't stuck at any one position on the throttle pedal, so you can lift it yourself when you shift.

When upshifting it's faster to just floor the throttle. But it's not recommended if you are doing some longer or endurance race when it might do that pop-corn effect.

Quote from Mogar :

I have little experience with rc cars (competition rc cars, not rc cars just for fun), but I've seen a couple of races, and the drivers were not using locked diffs or no diffs.

i do have lots of expierience with rc cars and their drivetrains and trust me on this ... all 1/8 on road sportscars have no diffs (the only thing they use is a freewheel at the belt => axle joint in the front) ... a was a bit shocked when i found out too especially as most smaller rc cars use diffs
but i guess a ball diff would slip way too much with a nitro engine and locking a gear diff is probably too complicated at that size (and the clutch plates would probably wear in no time)

Quote from Shotglass :

i do have lots of expierience with rc cars and their drivetrains and trust me on this ... all 1/8 on road sportscars have no diffs (the only thing they use is a freewheel at the belt => axle joint in the front) ... a was a bit shocked when i found out too especially as most smaller rc cars use diffs
but i guess a ball diff would slip way too much with a nitro engine and locking a gear diff is probably too complicated at that size (and the clutch plates would probably wear in no time)

Humm... so it's kind of a limitation of this kind of car rather than a real advantage to use locked diffs.

Quote from Mogar :

Humm... so it's kind of a limitation of this kind of car rather than a real advantage to use locked diffs.

not necessarily ... those cars have massive grip attain incredible cornering speeds and run rather stiff arbs ... so the only real pressure the inside wheel gets while cornering is from areodynamics (which press directly onto the rear wheels instead of the chassis)
so dragging a wheel that hasnt much grip wont slow them down to any degree that seriously matters ... and with 4wd oversteer at the corner exit can be dealt with rather easy so i doubt a proper diff would shorten times much

but then it's something that is due to the nature of these cars, instead something that apply to all other cars.


ok, some cars (not talking about rc or any other type of small scaled cars) may have advantages running locked diffs, but on LFS almost all cars have advantages when running locked differentials, and I still think that it's unrealistic.

Engine "damage"

well, when I play LFS, I usually go for the manual settings. I use manual clutch, no cut/blip with all cars. I got used to it and most of the time, I prefer to use it for engine braking. I've noticed that a lot of the racers that set WRs, for a slow corner, shift from 4th to 2nd in order to get the car to stop quicker. Now, I like that idea, but I feel that its waay to risky to use in a race unless you got a pretty stable set. So, from what I can understand from you fellas that I should use auto clutch with no cut/blip. So, just like GPL .