A day?! I've had one since they came out and I STILL misshift now and then. I think it took me about a week to really get used to working three pedals at once and using an H shifter. Admittedly I wasn't driving a real car at the time though.
Yup, just have to get used to it, i noticed this in the BF1 after the change to Y. But feels good again now, also your setups will be old, try and get new ones from setupgrid or setupfield.
And for me i have to say, at the beginning of LFS i also thought the cars have too little grip, but i think its the sense of speed thats lacking. (70-75°FOV on 17")
Now i can drive pretty well without feeling "wtf?! no gripzr!".
PS Gamepad btw
The grip level was technically not reduced. The heat rate was increased, though. That tends to force drivers to use harder tires, and that does reduce grip.
that's all good and weel, but how would you explain the ATC Quicksilver effect? he's been using a ps2 pad for years and he has never had an issue with the controls. infact, he challenges alot of wr's with his ps2 pad. maybe a wee pm to him asking hijm for his ingame settings could help the original poster. but saying that you feel disco'd from the game whilst using a pad is a bit like saying forks are crap for eating soup.
As ATC Quicksilver will tell you a pad will only let you hotlap before you eat the tyres, nothing compares to a ffb wheel for accurate smooth input, but since then i've been on quite a longish break from the driving(need a PC...LFS would probably be the only thing i use it for).
Give anyone a pad and after long enough they'll get the hang of it but as i said it's useless for driving more than 12 laps imo.
Tbh I can't remember the exact patch that turned things belly up for me and a pad iirc it was x10 or x11 or so....
On the approach to patch Y there definably was one patch that saw the sensitivity or sample rate of peripheral input skyrocket, a fix was attempted with more ASS but at that point I got so frustrated i decided to buy a wheel. Let's be honest though, if anyone wants to drive this sim to it's entirety you must be using a ffb wheel or similar, trying to control any car especially RWD with the minuscule input range of a gamepad just wont cut it, may do for hot lapping, not for events or endurance.
It's been a while since the gamepad guide which turns out is kind of counter productive in a way to attract the 'wrong type of customer' to the sim, who wants an army of gamepad pic-up-racers giving off a bad image?, not that all do but i hope you can see where i'm coming from.
ok, so he did use a pad that race and probably others too but i just don't see the point anymore to be honest, shure with a pad one can pull off some extreme maneuvers compared to wheel drivers but in the long run it's just not the correct tool for the job.
I'll repeat what so many other people said to me in the past as a gamepad driver with too many questions:
i do agree that a pad for driving is the "wrong" (for want of a better word) tool for the job. qs has a wheel but has no room for it. the pad is his best option. qs has entered alot of leagues with races up to 60 (gp) and 20-30 in league races. he doesn't use special pad setups. for an example, i was working on a new setup for the XFR " aston club as the new patch threw the old setup off a bit. i told qs i was confident that in the right hands, my setup would be the wr set. he told me to send it to him and within 3 laps (out lap and 2 hotties) he had actually beaten the wr (on a server).
long story short, the correct pad will always do the job as well as a wheel (speed wise). and tbh, you can't really do anything "special" with a pad that you can't do with a wheel.
i remember qs used to drift with the pad too. i just don't know how he can be so accurate with such a small axis.
If you've never used a pad i'll excuse that comment but if you can imagine when driving with a pad you can almost instantaneously go from lock to lock no matter the ffb no matter the amount of physics against you, the most dificult thing to do is hold a clean 100% line through an apex without scrubbing the tyres. The pad does allow for a lot of unusual driving techniques and maneuvers otherwise not possible using a ffb wheel, apart from kb and mouse, but they have stabilization and therefor cannot be compared.
Dunno what QS has to say but remember everyone has their own driving style; so insight to using a pad may differ.
I'll stick to my guns when I say the pad is very rough on tyres, unless QS has super-dooper sensitive hearing to hear the rubber flexing
E:
and oh i remember what happened in ATC 60 lap event, i lied above i don't think i finnished that high, I kind of had an epic catastrophic yougert entered into the equasion(2 yo daughter), iirc twas lap 52 or something and me 7th from the front went tits up into pit lane wall covered in yougert
i have used a pad. i even used a joystick (s1). yes the responce time is slightly faster, but as i have said b4, there's nothing you can do with a pad that you can't replicate with a wheel. the bit about the pad being bad for tyres i would still dissagree. just because you can't comtrol your tyre temps with a pad, it doesn't mean it's impossible
...i don't understand, how is it possible to go from lock to lock in .05 seconds with a wheel, you must be an octopus with lotsa arms yes?
With a wheel and FFB you can enter an apex and hold the wheel applying resistance evenly coasting through the turn. This is the first major difference I noticed with G25, the 'feel' for the edge of the tyre grip point and how nice it was to get around corners without scrubbing or wear. With the pad it's like doing it with ten raincoats on, no feel .
can i ask another question. when using the g25, does the ffb work constantly whenever there is a bump in the road? or is it only if you go on the grass or gravel? also does the intensity vary?
What are your controller settings? I couldn't get a decent deadzone unless I used: (Wheel Turn Compensation: 1.00)
Wheel Turn: 90°(anything more results in big oversteering) Wheel Turn Compensation: 1.00 (anything less results in over-sensitive dead zone)
and Analog Steer Smooth 0.80 (this is user preference, less will make movement sluggish but less sensitive)
Tried Remove Deadzones Yes/No in controls setting, Axes/FF menu?
Yep, I have got pretty much exactly the same settings. The "remove deadzones yes/no" didn't do anything at all to help. I've been trying to get the xbcd drivers to work, but vista 64 is a pain in the ass. I've given up. Unless anyone good at programming knows how to implement a deadzone directly through the game?
Was the heat rate increased to a more realistic level or is it exaggerated ? The tyres do seem to heat up awful quick but I am not sure whether that is my reckless driving or the game
Tyres heat faster than in previous patches, yes... There recently was a discussion whether the tyre heating model isn't still way too slow altogether (both heating and cooling) and another, if the relation between tyre pressure and heat shouldn't be the other way round...
If you've been playing xbox360 or other console games, where you can just smack the thumbstick all the way over and the virtual driver turns the in-game wheel to the appropriate angle, depending on speed, and no further, then it's a big change to go to LFS where the thumbstick is (however you have your settings) directly linked to the angle of the in-game steering.
With default settings, and say 35 degrees of lock in the setup, then it doesn't take much movement of the thumbstick to exceed the available grip at the front tyres at highish speed. Move it all the way over and you're at full steering lock. Totally different from the way console games behave.
Driving with a thumbstick requires a deft touch and suitable controller/car setup.
My G25 arrived today!! Its ****ing great. Now there's plenty of grip!!!! But a few things are quite annoying though. like the unrealistic force feedback intervention when straightening up from a slight turn. It shakes it back into the centre. why??? Also is it normal for the wheel to hold itself so stiff. I need to put considerable effort just to turn the wheel. I know i can lower the ffb setting in game, but then i won't feel any of the bumps in the road. I guess i just have to play around with the settings. Right now iv'e got 900 degree rotation, 101% ffb on the profiler, spring effect and damper effect at 0%. And i have left centering spring off. I'm not too sure what's a good level for the in game ffb strength.