From what you said about the carbs, I would pull them off, tear them all apart, and clean everything. Carb cleaner through every air and fuel passage way.
You also said you changed the plugs, did you gap them correctly? Gap might be too large. As you said you have limited experience, you should start with checking the plugs. From the little information given, I would guess there is debris caught somewhere that is causing fuel starvation under heavy load.
You also said you changed the plugs, did you gap them correctly? Gap might be too large. As you said you have limited experience, you should start with checking the plugs. From the little information given, I would guess there is debris caught somewhere that is causing fuel starvation under heavy load.
New toy! 2002 Yamaha YZ426 with a **** ton of mods.
Almost complete, still missing a few pieces. I finally got it running so I went to take it for a break in ride and it fouled the plug in the middle of nowhere. My fault for not checking to make sure the spark plug that came with head was the right one
Almost complete, still missing a few pieces. I finally got it running so I went to take it for a break in ride and it fouled the plug in the middle of nowhere. My fault for not checking to make sure the spark plug that came with head was the right one
Looks can be very deceiving. There are a lot of cars out there that look like scrap but have a heck of a lot of power or handle very well. Take the Audi 200 for example. You'd never take it seriously until it starts smoking all 4 tires and leaves your ass in the dust. 600-800hp is fairly common.
Two more followed me home. Husqvarna 610's. 1995 WXC 610 and 2000 SM610S Supermoto. Probably just going to fix them and make some money.
Last edited by skstibi, .
Reason : Found out what I ACTUALLY bought.
It's kind of up to the manufacturer as to if the fuel is cut completely or not. Automatic vs Manual transmission also plays a part in it.
I can tell you my Porsche 944 cuts fuel completely until the engine speed drops to 1300rpm then fires again and the engine drops softly to idle. I can program that to any RPM I want. My diesel truck is kind of the same way. It closes off the fuel inlet passage to the injection pump but it's not a perfect shutoff and a very small quantity of fuel sneaks through on those high rpm downshifts. Fuel resumes when the rpm drops to 1000. In either case, you can turn the ignition off and it makes no difference in either.
There really isn't one single thing that causes engine braking by itself. There are many little things that cause the engine to reduce speed. It's trying like hell to suck in air, then it has to squeeze that (most energy is returned from the spring effect but there is still loss), then it has to force all that air out another even smaller hole than it sucked it in from.
Then there is friction and quite a lot of it. Think of all the moving parts that are rubbing together. Don't forget you are pumping oil and usually water around which takes energy.
Air displacement when the pistons come down still takes energy no matter what. Think of air as the fluid it is, it takes some force to move out of the way even if another is piston is assisting in sucking from the other side. We don't live in a perfect universe, sorry. Entropy is kind of annoying. There's more but I cannot be bothered to keep typing. Just think about it and remember we do not live in a perfect world.
I can't be bothered to list everything. Different engines act differently as well but you still have the basics. If you can't wrap your head around a 4-stroke or diesel then start with a 2-stroke and move your way up. They don't have as much engine braking but it's still there.
I can tell you my Porsche 944 cuts fuel completely until the engine speed drops to 1300rpm then fires again and the engine drops softly to idle. I can program that to any RPM I want. My diesel truck is kind of the same way. It closes off the fuel inlet passage to the injection pump but it's not a perfect shutoff and a very small quantity of fuel sneaks through on those high rpm downshifts. Fuel resumes when the rpm drops to 1000. In either case, you can turn the ignition off and it makes no difference in either.
There really isn't one single thing that causes engine braking by itself. There are many little things that cause the engine to reduce speed. It's trying like hell to suck in air, then it has to squeeze that (most energy is returned from the spring effect but there is still loss), then it has to force all that air out another even smaller hole than it sucked it in from.
Then there is friction and quite a lot of it. Think of all the moving parts that are rubbing together. Don't forget you are pumping oil and usually water around which takes energy.
Air displacement when the pistons come down still takes energy no matter what. Think of air as the fluid it is, it takes some force to move out of the way even if another is piston is assisting in sucking from the other side. We don't live in a perfect universe, sorry. Entropy is kind of annoying. There's more but I cannot be bothered to keep typing. Just think about it and remember we do not live in a perfect world.
I can't be bothered to list everything. Different engines act differently as well but you still have the basics. If you can't wrap your head around a 4-stroke or diesel then start with a 2-stroke and move your way up. They don't have as much engine braking but it's still there.
Last edited by skstibi, .
Avoid anything that you plug in and leave there or splice in anywhere.
Either go with the chip that you physically open up the computer and replace the old chip with a new one or use a programmer to write a new tune into the computer.
The piggyback devices are pure CRAP and most of them are a scam.
With a diesel you can go as far as you dare with power and with modern computer controlled diesels you lose nothing if tuned right. You can still have them run without smoking but get TONS more power. You just need to know what is the weak point is and take it back a couple steps. My engine block on my truck will split if I go much over 500hp. Taking a 115hp Diesel to 150 is safe.
I do all the reprogramming and tuning on all my stuff and trust me, you can ALWAYS do better than a factory map on a production vehicle. My diesel truck is the perfect example. It started off with maybe 170hp and maybe 300 lb/ft of torque. Would not spin the tires in anything but snow and was worthless at towing anything heavier than a VW bug. I went in and ended up maxing out the injector pump flow rate and pulse width and played around with advance and a few other things until I liked it. Factory ran 5psi boost, now I run 25. No idea how much power it makes now but it's a hell of a lot more. Traction is an issue though.
I didn't gain any top end power in my Porsche but the first half of the gas pedal travel does something now and it has more low to mid range power.
I cheated with my Aprilia Supermoto and just used the factory racing map and saved myself a lot of time.
Either go with the chip that you physically open up the computer and replace the old chip with a new one or use a programmer to write a new tune into the computer.
The piggyback devices are pure CRAP and most of them are a scam.
With a diesel you can go as far as you dare with power and with modern computer controlled diesels you lose nothing if tuned right. You can still have them run without smoking but get TONS more power. You just need to know what is the weak point is and take it back a couple steps. My engine block on my truck will split if I go much over 500hp. Taking a 115hp Diesel to 150 is safe.
I do all the reprogramming and tuning on all my stuff and trust me, you can ALWAYS do better than a factory map on a production vehicle. My diesel truck is the perfect example. It started off with maybe 170hp and maybe 300 lb/ft of torque. Would not spin the tires in anything but snow and was worthless at towing anything heavier than a VW bug. I went in and ended up maxing out the injector pump flow rate and pulse width and played around with advance and a few other things until I liked it. Factory ran 5psi boost, now I run 25. No idea how much power it makes now but it's a hell of a lot more. Traction is an issue though.
I didn't gain any top end power in my Porsche but the first half of the gas pedal travel does something now and it has more low to mid range power.
I cheated with my Aprilia Supermoto and just used the factory racing map and saved myself a lot of time.
Last edited by skstibi, .
They didn't put a turbo on a 650, it's just common practice for people to do it to the old KZ's these days. Kawasaki Made the GPZ750 Turbo and the Z1-R Turbo which was the 1000.
http://motorcyclespecs.co.za/m ... ki/kawasaki_z1r_turbo.htm
The factory bike only made 125hp and was a bit touchy but turbocharging them came to be common for racing and then street use on the KZ's. You see guys with turbo KZ1000's making anywhere from 130hp on low boost to the nutters that push 30psi and well over 300hp on a street ridden bike.
They look great and ride normally until you want to scare yourself.
Someone say Turbocharged 650? This is the way to go with that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAIUiPqjw9Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAIUiPqjw9Q
The SV650 is a good bike but it does not have the power that I expected. The throttle did nothing at all. You really had to grab a handful to get anywhere. When I finally hit full throttle, I was waiting for power that never came. For all the people that praise them, I definitely expected more out of the engine. The bike rode very well and it sounded great but that's it.
Nothing expensive ever breaks on mine. The most expensive thing I go through is tires. I have the 2.7 in mine (1989 only). Completely stock, just a tune. I would love to put a 3 litre engine in it with a turbo.
I use mine for everything. I still have a set of control arms for my truck and some motorcycle parts in the back of mine right now. It's amazing how much stuff you can fit into the car.
I use mine for everything. I still have a set of control arms for my truck and some motorcycle parts in the back of mine right now. It's amazing how much stuff you can fit into the car.
Last edited by skstibi, .
I drive my 944 all year. The paint isn't any good so I don't even bother washing it anymore. 309,000 MILES, everything original except new valves and guides due to the previous owner letting the timing belt break. 
Great to drive in the snow as long as the tires are not worn to the steel belts. Limited slip diff would be nice to have though. Open differential in the snow SUCKS.
Great to drive in the snow as long as the tires are not worn to the steel belts
. Limited slip diff would be nice to have though. Open differential in the snow SUCKS.
Love it! I don't really see many of them around here.
I've done 95 in a 20. Empty road but still
The first car I ever drove was a 1.9 TDI Passat 5-speed. Amazingly good car. Window regulators sucked but the rest was great.
The circuit board swap has worked for me both times I have tried it. Both times the drives quit working and started making loud clicking noises.
There really isn't much else to go wrong on the inside of a drive. It's basically just a brushless motor and a couple electromagnets. Nothing else can go bad. The clicking noise is the little arm inside the drive not getting any proper signal/ control and it just goes nuts.
There really isn't much else to go wrong on the inside of a drive. It's basically just a brushless motor and a couple electromagnets. Nothing else can go bad. The clicking noise is the little arm inside the drive not getting any proper signal/ control and it just goes nuts.
The control board is what fails. The information is still on the disc.
What I have done and suggest is to buy an identical hard drive as the one that failed and swap control boards.
What I have done and suggest is to buy an identical hard drive as the one that failed and swap control boards.
My truck meets 4000 regularly. It's a big 'ol 6.5L diesel.
Then again, I never have been one to take redline seriously.
I enjoy sitting back and watching the idiots fail. Beats having to waste time explaining things.
I haven't been in one of those since my second birthday.
My dad sold it that day. I still remember it though.Oh the funny faces when the idiot behind the camera cannot figure out how to take a picture. 
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG