I'm looking to use the most realistic settings for my Driving Force GT wheel, while being able to remain competitive online. I'm more interested in Road cars then anything really.

So lets say i use the XFG/XRG/XRT/FXO and RB4 75% of the time, while using the LX4/LX6 and RAC the other 25% of the time. What forcefeed back settings, as well as the other wheel settings do you use in the wheel/joystick key options.

I've been playing LFS for quite a long time, though i probably have more offline time then i do online, for the simple fact that i put practicing before anything else as number 1 priority. So before i begin seriously racing online again, i must practice practice practice so that i'm not crashing into people during corners and what not.

I use a Driving Force GT, and am basically looking for the most realistic settings that will mimic real life driving as best as possible. Because i can't go drive my old Merc like a maniac on the public roads without putting my self and others at risk.

Thanks for your help guys.

Quote from zeugnimod :

Have you tried "inverting" the axis'?

Maybe an open door but you installed the Logitech drivers correctly?

Not exactly sure how it looks but I think there was a small field somewhere that you could click to invert them.

I solved the issue guys. I had to set the gas and brake to a completely new axis in order for it to work. It would not allow me to bind the key like you would would normally do, but it works just fine.

Thank you. it took some fooling around with.

Yeah, wrong section. My mistake. Thx for the replies.

If some one can please help me while i try to find answers. This issue is related to Liveforspeed only at the moment. I can't map the gas and break pedals. They are plugged in and assigned in the driver settings.

When i change the throttle/brake axis to "separate" it just floors the gas pedal but keeps what seems to be the e-brake depressed. I won't use combined axis, and not buttons because it's a gas/brake pedal set.

If anyone has had this issue before and has found the solution, i'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

So i re-bought my self a wheel today, in hopes that LFS will once again be fun and challenging. I used to own a MoMo which i had and used for a period of 6-7 months some several years ago. But i needed money for a some other piece of hardware, and wasn't playing LFS anymore, so i used the warrantee to trade it back into Comp USA.

Around 3 years later, i've picked up the above mentioned Driving Force GT. Can i ask what settings you guys that owned the above wheel find to best suit your needs? and how do you like thw wheel? has it been reliable for you?

I love this Sim and have been playing it lately with a gamepad for the last few months, but yearn for that wheel once again. It's to bad i couldn't afford a G25/G27, but this will certainly do. I'm greatful for atleast going back to a wheel.

I'll have to skim the forums for related posts when i get a chance. Thanks for any info i nadvance.

I thought these mods were legit? i did get them directly from links on this website. Every mod i use is from these forums and legit as far as i know.

I lost this file after installing either a wheel or rim mod. Not sure which one but i failed to back it up. If anyone can post this default file for download i'd really appreciate it. Thank you.

When i select certain cars, it get a message saying that a file called "White" can not be opened. It's most likely due to the fact that i was installed a new tire and rim mod without backing up the file.

I'm usually very careful, but i lost the file without realizing it. if anyone can post the proper file for download i would really appreciate it. Thank you.

Why have gas and break on a combined axis? doesn't have mean the gas is always floored unless you're putting your foot on the break? i don't get it.

So it's back to the game pad since my wheel bit the dust some time ago. I have no other choice at the moment which sucks, but i'd like to make the best out of it and get back to playing LFS.

Can anyone advise me on which settings work best for straight up good lap times? I want it to be as realistic as possible. I have analog steer smooth on the max settings so that my steering is as slow and smooth as possible. I will not speed it up like those who race with a mouse and are able to turn the steering wheel at lightning speed.

I think it's unrealistic and unfair, but to each his own. So analog steer smooth must be max for pin point precision and realism. But what other settings are important to make for the best possible driving experience?

I have my buttons and keys setup, it's just the other settings that need to be fine tuned so i can hopefully be competitive. any help would be greatly appreciated guys.

maybe some screen shots of your settings would be great. Thank you.

So what do you guys use for standard view settings, and which is most realistic. I've been playing LFS on and off for years and have just recently began playing with the Lateral head tilt? forward, vertical etc etc settings.

Can you guys take screen shots and post them of your view settings. or just list what settings seem most realistic for high speed driving.

There is also other settings that involve the camera swaying left and right that i've hardly played with. I'm really just looking to add something new to a game that i've played for quite a while.

I'm looking to add freshness to a game that has become a bit fun again, but still, it would be great to add new life to the game. Also looking for the most up to date engine sounds.

Not sure if anyone mentioned this already as i haven't read the entire 5-6 pages of this thread. But Torque is displayed in 2 types of measurements, the first one being Foot-Pounds, and the second being Newton-Meters, which is what the Nm should stand for.

Mostly all FWD vehicles with standard Transmissions use a Transaxle, while RWD vehicles use a Transmission. The diference between the 2 is that FWD uses the Transaxle which Houses the Gear Box that includes the imput shaft, the output shaft while the smaller gears with less teeth drive the larger gears with more teeth, usually 2-4 times as much for better torque Multiplication.

RWD Vehicles use this combo of components in this exact order 99% of the time. The Cranks shaft is attached to the rear of the Engine, which has the flywheel or (Flexplate for auto trannys) mounted directly to it with a splined Hub. Then you have the Clutch which is mounted in front of the Pressure plate and basically between both the flywheel and the pressure plate.The clutch and pressure plate should be attached to the input shaft. When torque is being transfered to clutch housing, the clutch is squeezed together between the flywheel and pressure plate which causes all 3 to rotate together, and continue to gain more velocity.When the clutch pedal is released, the clutch assembly/pressure plate disconnect from the engine causing the power to be cut.But once released, power is once again cnnected to the inout shaft which then transfers the torque through the input shaft and into the Gear Box. From there on out, the torque travels through the first input gear which is in mesh with the bottom output gear, the output gear (4th gear) then tranfers the power through the output shaft until it reaches the set of gears in charge of 1st gear. In the meantime, the first and second gear synchronizer has connected first gear to the shaft so that it can rotate with the shaft at the same speed, the torque then leaves the gear box and is transfered to the Drive shaft which then changes the angle of power flow by 90 degrees through a Ring and pinion gear set which is in mesh with the rear Differental( AKA Final Drive Gear). The Diff then transfers the power to both rear axles and of course finally to the rear drive wheels.

But lastly, the outer wheels must travel faster and further then the inner wheels in order to have correct traction when cornering, and for safe turning. If this action doesn't take place, then the vehicle will lose traction easily and will create faster and more incorrect tire wear.

As for auto transaxles, the gearbox, clutch sets, differ, and drive axles are all included in the single transaxle housing for mostly all modern vehicles.

4WD used a transfer case which is usually positioned behind the front axles, or underneath the middle of the vehicle. The transfer case is in charge of getting power to the front drive wheels through a small drive shaft, and also to the rear wheels with a longer drive shaft. Drive Shafts use U-joints so that the rear wheels/suspension can travel when the vehicle changes vertical and horizontal angles while driving on bumpy roads, or any other object that may cause the vehicle to shift angles.

Now i was very tired when i wrote this, but i assure you all my facts are straight. I figured this small guide would be helpful to those not familiar with real life Manual Transmissions and Transaxles, along with other Drive Line/Drive Train Components.

I'm asking if it's possible to make the MOMO Paddle Shifters Pressure Sensitive by use of an add-on, mod, program or any other way possible, for use of Hand Clutching. Last night i decided to try something diferent, in which i set my left paddle shifter on my MOMO Wheel to act as a clutch, and to my surprise it was quite decent.

Now i realize hand clutching might seem odd at first as it's barely realistic, but it works nicely, and i can't think of a better solution for me(and those) without a 3/axis pedal combo. Now I've obviously tried using wheel buttons 1-6, but they're not in the least bit comfortable in my opinion. But my gripe is that i absolutely hate auto clutching, as i want to use as little driving aids as possible regardless of what the competition is using.

So if anyone knows of the possible change from non pressure, to having pressure senstive paddle shifters for use of hand clutching, i'd greatly appreciate it, thx.

Yep, my MOMO acts exactly the same during reboot aswell.

I was able to fix the issue by depressing both the Gas and Brake Pedal fully to the gloor while also turning my wheel left until it can't go any further, then right.

Working in perfect order now.

My Wheel develops several issues after i reboot my machine, which makes LFS virtualy unplayable. I've reinstalled the latest drivers several times, recalibrated the axes as well, and tried every in game combination of settings with no luck.

The wheel seems to gain an unlimited amount of very high sensitivity after i recalibrate it in game, it also tends to shake left and right as if it's fighting me and about ready to snap off from the mount that the wheel is attached to.

And if thats not enough, it also constantly goes off center while shaking violently/out of control. So like i said, i've tried everything i could possibly think of.

If anyone can help me with this matter i'd greatly appreciate it. Or that has had success dealing with these problems. Thx

Sorry if i confused anyone, just that i was trying to create in-car custom views to get rid of my swinging view issue, but the settings wouldn't stick. Infact even while using the custom view settings that matched the exact settings of the standard in-car view setup, the swinging would return meaning the new settings wouldn't stick.

Also thx for the info regarding the cfg.text file, that indeed did fix my problem.
Thank you and Good day.

I had a friend taking care of pets for day while i went out of state to visit some relatives. My friend had asked me if he could customize my LFS to his personal settings that he used on his home PC.

My issue is that while taking turns, or even steering left to right while on any normal road/track, it looks as if my car seat is sliding back and fourth, or as if my driver is swinging his head side to side. I've spent lots of time trying to restore my settings, and trying to get rid of the view issue, but nothing solves the problem.

If anyone can tell me how i can reset my view options so that my driver stays looking forward without turning his head, or without my 1st person inside car view moving/sliding around to the point of getting me dizzy while causing me to make bad judgements while Racing, i'd greatly appreciate it.

Or if any of you can tell me how to reset and restore all my options to default, without having to reinstall LFS, that would be great as well, thx.

Thx for the info as i haven't been online much in the past few days, but i'm definately gonna get on and race online rather then off during the weekend.

I realize i don't have many miles online yet, but i'lll get to that apsect as soon as i feel i actually have a chance against the hardcore seasoned veterans

My number 1 goal is working my way up within the STCC ranks/licenses, but i'll try to find other servers that are mainly running S1 Cars as well. In the meantime, i'll be practicing like a drone.

Thx for the advice and i'll keep doing my best in terms of being a clean respected Racer.

Well i misewell introduce my self as i'm fairly new to to thr forums, well this being my first post. I started playing the LFS demo around March 29-30th or so when i was refered by a good friend who insisted this was a great Sim.

To make a long story short i was quickly addicted to LFS. I've been searching for a racing sim of this quality and enjoyment for all my gaming years, and finally there it was.

Now before even playing LFS online when i purchased S1/2, was to study and learn every single rule and clean racing guide/post to make sure i knew exactly what i was doing so that i wouldn't lose respect of my fellow racers, and so that i could gain the respect of the people that play this Sim. I always pull to the side when blue flags show, i allow people to pass me if they're in a further/better position then i am, i obey the pit rules, infact nothing is more important then being a clean Racer.

So i'd really like to join a Racing Team that's involved in active clean racing. I spend 90% of my time learning every track and car until i'm within atleast 5-7 seconds of the world records, then from there i fine tune my set ups, watch other replays while trying to perfect my skill.

Sorry for the rant, but i've been very unlucky lately as to join way to many servers where it seems theres an overload of wreckers and careless drivers with no respect for the other racers, which has became frusterating. So if any Teams are interested in a some what experianced player that is constantly working to better his skills with a group of respectable Folks, well send me a PM or email at [email protected] .

I'm looking to get into an active racing team/league as soon as possible. I'm focusing on the S1 cars atm, so thats kind of what i prefer atm, but anything will do, thanks for reading my long post lol.