Quote from jimaxx :

Basicly I'm wanting to get rid of my (quite frankly horrible) Razer Barracuda HP-1 and ive decided I either want:

ATH AD700/HD595/HD555

These are for gaming AND music but mainly positional audio in games, (hence the lacking bass ad700 is there) im more inclined to go for a the sennheiser option but since I saw a topic recently where there apeared to be some nice audio talk going on I figured I would try and get some help from some of the Audiophilles of this forum to save me registering and making a horrible first post and a audio forum.

I'm not to worried about sounds around me as its generaly quite quiet so the open back should be no problem, I'd like to know if anyone has ever used the HD555's and the HD595's and what difference did you hear (particulary unamped) and would these differences make a difference in gaming, positional audio and such, I know the 555's have a foam thing in which the 595's dont and it can be taken out but I'm not confident enough with headpphones to do this and this would make me pay the extra for the 595's in the first place if its making much of a difference.

I've rambled on horribly and made this much longer than it should seen while giving pointless information (I've even forgotten half of what ive wrote).


I'm currently using a Xonar D2X and dont own a headphone amp or plan on getting one anytime soon, all though I would like to know what (ohms?) or independence or what ever it is this card puts out, I'm assuming its not high enough for a higher range headset since Xonar actully have a different card in the series for this purpose.


tl;dr:

Will I hear a difference between the HD595 or HD555 for positional sound in games without a headphone amp through my Xonar D2X?

This seems like a awfully stupid thing to post on a forum but now ive wrote it I mayswell go ahead with it.

Cheers, Jim.


edit: How much will the open back sound effect audio positioning and is there ANY difference at all between the openness of the HD595 and 555 other than the foam thing?

I have the Hd595, and have heard the AD700, and can tell you the HD595 is also lacking in bass, and tiney sounding, very bad imo.
For gaming I would highley reccomend Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro or Shures new SRH840, I have both; DT770 is better for gaming and SRH840 for Music.
Both these headphones are easy to drive, but I would still reccomend a headphone amp.

Getting new cockpit next month still cant decide what to get (reccomendation welcome) :think: , but i need new button box so ive knocked this together this morning, using leo's controller
Usb cable hard wired and braided, for extra neatness...........
- 2 Rotary Encoders
- 1 Potemeter
- 3 Toggle switches
- 18 Mometary push switches

Quote from Joe_Keaveney :

Hi guys,

I'm making my own race cockpit based on Kolthars wood frame design.

Getting the wood materials is no problem, but I'm having some trouble finding a cheap bucket seat. The reason I'm building this cockpit is to save money, so it would make no sense spending all the money I've saved on an expensive seat.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.

Hiya m gmate, i bought my racing seat, Cobra Monaco S (black) about 3 months ago from ebay, ietting a new seat in a couple of weeks, you can have it for £50, im from London if you want to pick-up

Quote from silverfox1973 :

Since betainnovations is out of game and no usable plans, software or diy instructions are available I am counitng on this:
http://www.plugnfly.com/fr_compteur.html

Best regards!

Amazing, when is release date, they look very nice design, only i would want mph speedometer

setting up a tachometer for LFS and need some 'expert' advice
Im using this board; http://www.apogeekits.com/usb_interface.htm
and..........
tachometer; http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayI ... :IT&item=230297829207

Ive run 12v to power and light on the tach and the gauge infomation wire to the Analoge Output screw(DAC 1) terminal.

Now iam stuck, ive played around with the config file in LFS directory, outgauge settings, but I cannot get it to work.
Im out of ideas, and any help would be much appreciated.

thanks

Quick Photoshop what im planning. making the plate for shift light, rev counter and buttons from alluminium then covering in carbon fibre vinyl.
After measuring I dont think I will have room for LCD aswell, maybe future project . What do you guys think? suggestions/improvements always welcome, thanks

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I have just bought;

http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0710/ *Shift Light & Gear Display - BU0710

and

http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836X/ *Universal Joystick Controller BU0836X


Iam planning on buying an after market omp or momo wheel for my G25, and making a face plate to sit behind the wheel with buttons/rotary switches and the shift light gear display.

-What rotary switches do I need for adjusting brake bias?

-Iam also considering intergrating an lcd like this..... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/20X4-Character...3286.m63.l1177
.....How would I link this to my pc, to display info from rFactor and LFS?

thanks in advance

Got some spare parts on my self I dont need anymore;
- Asus 8800ultra with ek-clear-waterblock £140
- Abit i35pro Motherboard with aftermarket cooling (better temps) £80
- Sennheiser 465 headphones £20
- x2 Alphacool DDC Acriylic Pump tops £15
- Thermochill 120.3 Tripple radiator £40
-Foison C-24- I bought this plottor about a year ago for £395 heres the link http://www.signwizard.co.uk/foison.htm . Still got the receipt and still under warrenty. Hardley been used, got all the cutting blades and accessories. It is excellent for cutting stencils, vinyl graphics etc. very accurate. £200
all these prices including p&p to uk, you are welcome to pick them up, I live just outside london NW.