Quote from blackbird04217 :

The oversteer comment made by Mattesa above is completely how I feel. i've read, and understand the physics of weight transfer, so Pier nodoyuna has some truth to what he is saying, however, slamming the throttle on and then modulating should not help when oversteering. As Mattesa pointed out, carefully keeping the throttle on will move the weight to the rear and help reduce the spin. (In RWD car, and oversteer from balance issues; like hitting the brakes too hard, releasing the throttle too quickly).

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I guess it also depends a lot on the car. For example, a real Spec Racer Ford behaves this way: I you are near to have a spin slam on the throthle very heavy and you save it (this was said by a real driver and instructor in iracing forums), but maybe in other similar cars this doesnot work. I dont know how behaves the real F1600 .

Quote from Mattesa :

In terms of sliding around I'm still finding that to recover from a slide of any real significance you need to input a lot of throttle, and the car stays in 'state=oversteer' longer than expected if you don't.

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This is correct, because this way you are transfering load to the rear tyres, so you are having more grip. If you apply too much power (in lower gears or powerful cars) then the car will spin because of throttle oversteer.

Quote from NightShift :

Dish of the day on DrivingItalia: several people have been complaining about the steering wheel getting light on the F1600 when you apply more than some lock (a temporary solution has been found already)

Back to the point, increasing the caster fixes the issue for the time being.

No, this is not an issue to fix it is well done, the FF must go light at some steering lock if the caster is low enough, this is what theory says and what happens in real life.

The maximum grip is just around this point so real life drivers set the caster to feel this. This also happens in iracing

Unfortunately this is not well done in LFS so you cannot feel the grip, maybe in S3 I hope

Quote from BOOSTD :

Hi guys,

I am new to simulator racing. Most of my time has been spent out on a real race track in a purpose built track car. Firstly, I would just like to say how accurate the LFS physics are - I was honestly amazed at how predictable and true the physics modelling of LFS and a few other sims have been. It's a tribute to technology and shows me how far we have come developing these simulators.

Now, what I would really like is a car in LFS which has similar statistics to my own real car. Would it be possible to modify a car in the game to meet my specs? I downloaded the LFS tweak but its not really giving me the options I need to make my car.

My car specs are below and I would really appreciate if someone could help me make it (using the XRT base would be most suitable)

97 Nissan 180sx (or 240sx for those in the US but with SR20DET)
* 280kw or 375hp (at the engine)
* 1210kg or 2667.59 pounds (if I have converted right)
* Peak boost - 19psi
* Redline 7500rpm
* 245/50/16 rear and 225/50/16 front

Its a 4 cylinder, 2000cc and its a 5 speed manual gear box.

The car is RWD and uses sticky road tyres.

Is it possible to re-create this car for the game? I would love to compare the two.

Much appreciated!

If you want design from scratch and drive your own car you should try this sim:

http://www.racer.nl/

Quote from JeffR :

How many racing games are there where induced understeer works? The ones I know of are Grand Prix Legends, LFS with certain cars, and GTR2 with most cars.

nkpro 1.0.3

Is there any add-on to have a external view of the car in a second monitor?

Just to see what happening around while racing (avoid crashes etc)

I have two graphics cards, on for each monitor, to allow differents resolutions (the small monitor have lower resolution capabilites)

Thanks

After reading this interesting thread I tried the nkPro 1.03 .I spent some time in tuning force feedback parameters, and I get the steering torque to behave the way Todd says: increasing strength up to a point, and then the steering feels weaker, but not a lot weak, only small drop in force. This decreasing point seem to be the maximum point of grip and also the sound of the skid is present.

So it should be very close to real, however I have not a real racer so i am not sure.

I have not tried differents caster values yet. If I understood well, the more caster the less drop in force feedback when maximum grip is reached, but more overall strength.

Last edited by Pier nodoyuna, Mon, 5 Jan 2009 23:17.

Regarding autoclutch in strong brakes cars: you can skip gears, ie 6-4-2, or 6-3. It takes practice and have some risk of over-rev (throtle blip is needed), but it is possible and i have read it is common in real racing.

I use manual clutch in all cars except BF1

Congratulations to OLFSL staff and all the drivers of the season.

It was my first league ever and I have to say I was impressed by this league, I have found it both, very professional and very funny !!

My team members also liked it and we will suscribe to next one. Cant wait for it !!