It's not because IFS recognises L2 and R2 as buttons, it's because, using any one of those PS3 drivers for PC, Windows recognises those as buttons.
All the drivers available now seem to assign the triggers as buttons.
I myself am still looking for a PS3 driver that either assigns the triggers to axes OR has axes/buttons remapping functionality......
Did you mean you can't assign the triggers as separate axes using the original Logitech driver? In LFS, you have to specify having accel and brake as separate axes. Have you done that?
If the problem is with the driver, you'll have to wait for a thirty party driver. But have you tried the XBCD driver (originally for Xbox 360 wired controller)? The chance is slim but at least you can try?
My Xbox pads work perfectly on PC. I was asking about the PS3 pad.
Mine is the DUALSHOCK 3 and it's got rumble.
I don't expect the motion sensor and rumble to work at this stage but having analogue triggers is a must......
I've finally got a PS3 DUALSHOCK 3!
The stick feels better than the one on Xbox.
The big problem is: I've tried two drivers I found:
1) sixaxisdriver.exe
2) libusb-win32-filter-bin-0.1.10.1.exe + ps3sixaxis_en.exe
and both of them assigned the triggers to buttons...... And axes and buttons can't be remapped like the Xbox drivers...... In fact, it only has 4 axes for the two sticks only. The rest are all buttons......
Are there any drivers that assign the triggers as axes or have remapping function? Help!!
Good to hear that! Well different people feel differently I guess.
So you've used the PS3 controller on PS3. Apart from the question of having delay or not, did you find the sticks, triggers and motion sensor axes too sensitive for racing games?
Wait a minute!!! I didn't know the PS3 pad had triggers!!!
I finally understand what you guys are talking about...
So the PS3 triggers have about the same range of motion as the Xbox triggers?
I'd love to know if the analogue sticks are good too (too sensitive or not)!
With the PS3 Sixaxis drivers for PC we can find on the net, can we tweak deadzones or remap buttons and axes like XBCD?
I've heard of the new PS3 Dualshock 3, which has rumble. Not sure if it's available yet outside Japan tho.
Edit: And what about the Wii Classic Controller? Will it work with a PC without having to connect it to that Wii Remote?
Done some research on the PS3 SIXAXIS driver for PC.
The driver mentioned on the website I quoted seems to be the only one available now...
It seems to just make SIXAXIS work on PC but it hasn't got any config interface like that of XBCD...
It only supports USB (not Bluetooth) and motion sensor isn't supported.
BTW, the original driver was again written by a Japanese, I guess.
It'd be interesting if the range of motion for the triggers was about the same as that of Xbox 360 and if the sticks had better precision!
I'd love to get a DUALSHOCK 3 and have a try!
hey chris I want to know the PS3 pad on PS3, did you feel delay only? Was the axis sensitive for steering/gas/brake? I guess the motion sensor axes are mainly for things like action games where precision is negligible but controlling the "hero" by your own motions is utter FUN!
So the PS3 Sixaxis has delay?! Is it very sensitive like other pads too?
Yeah I agree people just get used to things after practice.
Do you guys know how to ride a motorbike? I don't. But they seem to control hell loads of things using their hands... I'll wait for the 2-stick, 4-trigger pad with buttons on the back and a good driver for PC included... (wishful thinking?...)
Hey atlantian if by ebrake you mean handbrake than that's it! I just missed that one!
Yea having all L1, L2, R1, R2 as triggers is actually perfect for racing games! And also some buttons on the back of the pad would be nice so the ring and little fingers can be used too!
I use the left trigger for brake and left stick for steering on my Xbox pad. At first, I found it "impossible" to trail brake and steer at the same time cos I had to use the same left hand. Now it's just second nature to me! So I guess we just need some practice to get used to whatever config there is on the pad!
An L1, L2, R1, R2 all triggers pad would be excellent! Well, Thrustmaster came up with a pad with a "wheel" on it so I guess nothing's impossible!
Earlier I said the Thrustmaster Run'N' Drive 3 in 1 Rumble Force was rubbish but I appreciate the designers' original ideas of having a "wheel" on a pad (though not really good) and also the two buttons on the back of the pad (which can be pressed by your middle fingers, though they are located in some ackward positions and hence difficult to reach...). But the quality of the pad is just bad... a waste of design efforts... With the ordinary pads, your middle, ring and little fingers on both hands can't be used. That's kind of a waste don't you think so?
I personally think the Xbox-style pad is a huge improvement over the PS one (mainly cos of the triggers). Now only if they have buttons on the back of the pad and also something (triggers maybe?) on the back for the CLUTCH!!!
Not sure about how well the PS3 Sixaxis works for racing sims though... so would like to hear any feedback! But I've got the gut feeling that it'll have worse sensitivity issues compared to the Xbox pad.
Lucky me I didn't buy the Logitech Chill Stream pad...
Does the stick on Logitech Dual Action pad have bigger moving range than Xbox? I haven't got anything to measure but the range of the Xbox stick is roughly around 50 degrees? How much is that for the Logitech Dual Action? Well, anyway, I can't accept a combined axis for gas and brake...
Does Stallone28 really use an Xbox 360 pad?! That sounds promising!! Those in 2nd, 3rd and 4th positions currently use a mouse (if m stands for mouse...).
Actually I used to use Wheel turn compensation = 0 and Analogue steer smooth = 0.3! I'll min all of the them and see what's gonna happen!
You and I use a gamepad for similar reasons... I use my PC and the computer desk for so many things. Gaming or LFS is just one of them. Having to setup the wheel, play the game and then put the wheel back after playing really puts me off...
I've tried the Thrustmaster Run'N' Drive 3 in 1 Rumble Force cos I was quite interested in that "wheel" on the gamepad. But it's just rubbish... The triggers were horrible and the "wheel" didn't really help steering at all. http://www.thrustmaster.com/pr ... uctID=35&PlatformID=5
If precision is what you need... have you tried using a wheel? Although I don't drive with a wheel often now but I definitely have more precise control with a wheel. You may be able to achieve better lap times with a wheel?
My current controller setting has been put in post #42.
I just did some typos in a previous post...
Maxing analogue steer smooth and wheel turn compensation should make things much easier. I don't even have to max those two.
Not all people use the max available steering locks. Even the people with wheels lower the steering locks sometimes. And if you watch the world records, you'll see they don't really use the whole range of the steering lock. Yes, if you lower your steering lock, it'll be a bit hard to get out of the garage (just going around the pits should be ok) but how often will you have to get out of the garage? In a race, you don't even have to... Try different setups and driving styles to see if there'll be any difference? Otherwise, maybe you have to use a wheel?
Edit: chris I just looked at the WR's for XFR/BL1. I didn't know your fastest lap time was so close to the WR! Well, a wheel may get you to the top!
WizardHat:
You don't have to copy the files. Just follow the instructions in the readme.
dx11:
According to the original Japanese website, the driver doesn't support multiple controllers.
chris I don't think you need 19 degrees of steering lock to get around Blackwood. I can manage with 13 or less (even with default or race_s setups). The max steering lock for BF1 is only 16! You shouldn't depend on the steering lock to turn.
If you use pinacle profiler, can you still assign separate axes for gas and brake?
I haven't noticed the difference between the axis in game and the one in the main menu.
But I'm pretty sure if you've got the car on the track and you change the setting, the changes will be reflected straight away.
A steering lock of 20 may be a little bit too much for a gamepad I'm afraid... I would find it too sensitive at 20 too. I remember some people even suggested locks like below 13.
I don't drive 4WD's really but they seem to be a tad too understeery to me... Maybe that's why you feel you need more steering lock? Have you tried FWD and RWD yet?
pbrown:
What steering lock do you use? 13 should work for most cases really. Your car setup and driving style seriously affect the way you go around a tight corner. You don't need so much steering lock.
All the analogue steer smooth, wheel turn compensation and steering lock (not sure about wheel turn tho) affect sensitivity quite a lot. You can't ignore any one of them. If I get any one of those wrong, even I'll find it sensitive.
BTW, have you guys tried this: http://kontrolfreek.com/products.html
As I haven't got any problems with my 360 controller so I can't be bothered to...
I usually adjust sensitivity (or linearity) in game, not through the controller driver. In LFS, it's called wheel turn compensation. Have you tried adjusting that?
Sorry about the typos earlier. My setting for the 360 wireless should be:
analogue steer smooth = 0.5
wheel turn = 90 degrees
wheel turn compensation = 0.9
steering lock = 13 degrees (up to 15 if needed)
Try higher analogue steer smooth, wheel turn compensation and a lower steering lock.
Having a larger deadzone will worsen the sensitivity issue. Having a smaller deadzone means finer controller when the stick is near the centre and that helps placing the car at the right spot before a turn.
I don't think the wireless driver will work with the wired Xbox 360 controller...
chris, on the XBCD interface, you can check if the sticks are properly assigned as analogue. If they are but the left stick is still recognised as digital in LFS, try assigning different axes to the left stick (any of the xyz or xyz rotation ones) or if the right stick is recognised in LFS as analogue, assign the right stick's axes to the left stick and then assign some other axes to the right stick.
I guess LFS won't care about which stick you use, it just cares about which axes you use! If the gamepad's working properly, I don't see why you can't get it work in LFS.
On the tab for the sticks, you can set the deadzones.
Usually I set them as small as I can so that I can have more range for the stick and at the same time the stick can centre well (or reasonably well, doesn't need to centre perfectly)
There's a 100 point scale there for setting the effective range for the sticks. I set it as 3 on the left and 0 (max) on the right.
Use higher values for analog smooth steer and Wheel turn compensation. Use a lower value for the Steering lock for the car you want to drive.
As for myself, my current setting is:
analog smooth steer = 5
Wheel turn compensation = 9
Steering lock = 13 (up to 15 if it's needed)
When I first started using a 360 controller for LFS, I thought having a linear axis for steering was important. Well, that's good for wheels but later I found out it's not really good for gamepads. It's actually good to have a pretty high Wheel turn compensation for gamepads.
I'm quite happy with the 360 controller and I haven't touched my wheel for ages! With my current setting, I don't find it too sensitve.
Not sure if the drivers work for other controllers...
Can you try?
The 360 wireless receiver is needed if you want to use the wireless controller on PC.
I'm using the same setup and the driver I mentioned above should work for you!
Have you figured out how to configure the controller using that driver's interface?
At first I found that really confusing as it was quite different from XBCD's one...