Quote from skstibi :

:jawdrop: BS much?
For one you can put about any car in neutral and fling it around a corner as hard as you can and you won't lose any oil pressure, modern oil pans have baffles to keep the oil in the lower portion of the pan where the pickup is. The oil passage ways in an engine do not care what g-forces are going on, as long as they are not blocked and the oil pickup is still in oil you will not lose oil pressure or flow around a corner.

The only time I have seen any oil pressure loss is going balls to the wall around a corner and sucking the oil pan dry, or the engine gets hot and the oil gets thinner and you will lose some pressure there.

For the second part of that quote, as long as the engine is cranking around there WILL be wear to one part or another.
An engine is always "compressing and expanding air" The only difference is when you add fuel it creates heat in the process. Either way, there is wear to your piston rings, bearings, oil pump gears, timing chain (and or belt), camshaft, lifters, etc.


I am not trying to pick fights here, I am just trying to get some facts straight.
What is the oil pressure of your car at an idle? My cars range from 55-80 PSI at an idle. That is the "minimum" sure but it is not anywhere even close to being a low pressure at an idle.

I've not said anything about losing oil pressure. My argument is that the oil pressure of an engine at idle rpm may not be enough to keep camshaft or crankshafts and the engine block from making contact and therefore causing what I consider real wear. Once any of these parts have touched and ripped away material, the process usually can't be stopped anymore.

It's certainly true that an engine has some wear from simply running. But have you ever seen broken engine that died from "normal" wear? Usually the car rusts away long before an engine that was properly treated starts to become a problem. (And if so, all it usually takes is a little honing and larger pistons, maybe new valves)

What I think I got wrong is that air gets compressed while engine braking. It's gets expanded in the step where the air fuel mix usually ignites. That should also produce some heat.

My bike engine has about 10-20psi in idle, depending on oil temp and viscosity, going up to 110psi at 10500rpm. I somehow doubt your car has that much oil pressure on idle, but it's a possibility to gear it that way and use a pressure sensitive valve to keep it in a sane range at full load.

Anyway, most modern engines have such low (may I say boring?) power/displacement values, and manufacturers make sure that even cold engines can take lots of abuse, so all this may be moot for them.

To add, engine idle rpm provides just the minimum of oil pressure. Idle oil pressure isn't spec'd for a moving engine that is subject to cornering forces. There is a safety margin of course, but to argue that neutral causes less engine wear is plain ridiculous.

Another thing is weight transfer, no matter if one acellerates or decellerates, an engine that is in the proper gear will allow for a smoother drive (Think rain, snow, ice, or on a track, potentially higher cornering speed).

Third thing point has already be discussed, brake temperature and wear are greatly reduced by letting the engine do most of the job (which, unlike brakes, has a purposely made water and/or oil cooler to get rid of the heat and doesn't have mechanical wear because it's only compressing and expanding air)

Now back to lurking...

IRL driving...

Röhrl: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYv28ctVab8
McRae: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMEqOGejlrw

Now what

Going from Z to Z10 causes a massive (10-30) FPS drop with shadows enabled. It doesn't really matter which setting, only off will "fix" it. The slowdown appears to happen whenever a car shadow comes into the camera view.

card is a radeon 9800 mobility