The AI still looks the same as previous series :thumbsdow It's as if all the cars are of the same make and all are racing in safety formation. It would be so much more immersive if there's an actual fight for position in front of you or two cars ahead trying to block you. The AI in GT seem too perfect almost like LFS AI...

Quote from danthebangerboy :

Just look at the guage on the dash lol, i know it isnt the most exact thing in the world but at least it gives you a rough idea of how much you have left.

Haha I know there's a fuel gauge on pretty much every car I think besides local go karts. I thought it would be better if there's a flashing indicator or something nagging for low fuel. Well my car goes crazy ding when it's low on fuel.

Quote from Neilser :

Yes, it has struck me before that some sort of fuel warning would be rather bloody useful. We've all seen plenty of racers dribble to a halt and admit they've run out. Hell, most of us have even done it.

Dunno about race cars, but how many real cars have no fuel warning light?
(And surely it's not that crazy to have one even on an open wheeler??)

(I bet this is on the Improvements list?)

Are you telling me that other non open wheeler may not have fuel indicators? I thought the lack of addition on open wheelers is just to simulate real life cars even though it's odd that there's none to begin with.

Whoa of all things I forgot to check the fuel gauge. I wrongly assume it was the engine or transmission since I am pretty aggressive on the gears.

Doesn't real open wheelers have some sort of flashing display when it's low on fuel? It would be great to have some sort of reminder in case of facing the chance of losing a race on the very last lap

I hotlap with the FBM but after 10 or so laps the engine cuts off and applying the throttle does nothing. I checked the clutch temp and it's low so does this mean I blew the engine? How would I know when it would happen?

Just recently my G25 has this sharp ticking sound only when I turn the wheel to the right. At first I thought it was maybe the FFB but the ticking still persist when everything gets unplugged. Right now there seems to be no problems but I'm just paranoid maybe and opening it up is probably my last resort after I sawBlackknight555's pics .

Off-topic: for hotlapping, does spinning around prior to lap trying to get up to tire temp really to be seconds faster? I keep finding my first split time to be at least 1-2 secs short of WR's.

Well if someone got the WR time wouldn't that show the dedication the person has for the game? Anyways I thought it was a great idea to compete for a full license but the conditions for this competition is quite flawed. In a way I see it as a freebie to the current WR holder. If it were a brand new track than this competion would be fair since everyone will be on the same playing field.

Maybe next time have a race instead with top qualified 20 drivers using reverse grid Probs to WR holder, saw your replays and you got crazy controls of both cars

Quote from oli17 :

oh come on! he's the WR holder, surely thats not fair!? *grumble grumble*

Didn't you know? This competition rewards WR demo holders
1:35 is definitely doable for me. The posted WR times just sucked all the fun away...

Quote from Migz :

So why does he not just create another thread offering to create people another high quality product? And post his videos ect in there?

I don't think you see the point of him posting that video

Quote from obsolum :

You mean a bumpy track like South City? What have you set the FFB to in the game, by the way?

I feel that most of the tracks in LFS are pretty smooth so their FF is good to manage. I have mine FF set to 70. I remembered when I tried the radical on lime stone park and it felt like karting again

Quote from The Very End :

Using Logitec Driving Force Ex, and currently not using any FF, return to lock or anything fancy on it atm.

I prefer holding the hands pretty far down on the wheel, with a light grip. This helps to straightening the wheel up faster and to push the various buttons easier.

But with intence racing I automatically gets a high grip on the wheel, and holds is so hard I usually gets white knuckles and with long playing I might even get these little ..uhm on english I don't know the word for it, brush? / scratch wounds?..

But I try at least to use the ligh and low grip, using both hands on the wheel most of the time too. Only time when not two hands on the wheel is when I write while racing, 1 hand on the keyboard and one on the wheel.

Edit : The wheel can be turned a total of 180 degree lock to lock.

I don't grip the wheel as hard so that I can easily maneuver the car through tight corners. However, driving a car with stiff suspensions on a bumpy track will FF on full will make my hands and arms sore after around 20 laps from the constant fight with the wheel :faint:.

Well it seems that 9,3 is quite a natural response Anyone know what the 2 lumps on the wheel is for then? I'm guessing it's for rally/drift racers for the added grip .

Me too as well. Nobody has sore hands? I guess I'm still relatively to racing then since I get sore so easily

It's funny because I normally hold the wheel such that the thumbs hook over the bridge of the wheel at the 9,3 position because it's accurate that way. I'm currently using a Logi DFGT wheel which has those protruding lumps at the 11,1 position. I find that after several laps my thumb becomes quite numb and if I just hold it at the 11,1 position, my hands don't cramp as easily and that turing actually becomes easier. I'm just wondering what most of the ppl here hold it as: speed-wise and endurance-wise .

Wow that really does the trick after setting the FFB to 100%. I would never have suspected that, thanks ZeroR

Here's a screenshot of the in-game and Logitech profiler. Funny I haven't encounter this problem in any of the Simbin games .The FFB at zero to low speed is almost the same as travelling at high speed which led me to think it might be a coding issue?

Yes and I have changed my Logitech profiler as suggested on the website. I'm starting to think it might be the wheel's driver since it doesn't have an official driver out yet (using the wingman team driver right now). Other than the forcefeed back at the start, the game feels very good with this wheel.

I realized that even when the car is idling, my steering wheel oscillates back and forth like crazy. So I figure that LFS must be trying to simulate the engine though this seem to be on the extreme side. I then turn off the engine, and my wheel still oscillates back and forth. My FFB is at 60 and I'm using Logitech DPGT. I'm wondering whether is it just me, the driver for the wheel, or is the game suppose to act like that?