lol no I didn't, what happened was somebody unplugged my wheel and plugged in my phone instead. So I looked at the outlet and saw an AC adapter and for some reason I assumed it belonged to the wheel, when really my wheel was unplugged and the phone was plugged in instead (must have been the tangle of cables and wires under my table). So luckily no damage was done.. I remember picking up the wheel's AC adapter and thinking "hey my phone is logitech too", it took a few seconds for it to sink in lol.
Hi, I wasn't sure where to start this thread and figured here was the best place. I left my house for a week, came back and my black momo's ffb just stopped working. Game's still receive inputs, but the ffb is dead.
When I plug in the usb cable from the wheel, the left green LED flickers faintly instead of lighting up and staying on, the right one stays off as usual. The wheel sounds normal/has normal resistance when I turn it at that point.
I then unplug the wheel's usb and turn it, and get the same normal resistance, but when I turn it there is a slight high pitched whine that's not there when it's plugged in (I don't know if that was always there or not).
I should mention I left the AC cord plugged in for the entire week, I'm wondering if there was a power surge and it burned a fuse. But I don't know how likely that is since the wheel still somewhat works. Has anyone had this problem before? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Edit: Problem solved, turns out I was using my phone's AC adapter
I just went through iRacing's faq page and read that they are offering a commercial offline version. Has anyone looked into this and what they mean by "commercial"? Seeing as you have to contact somebody to get it I'm wondering if it's available to the general public, then again "commercial version" doesn't really imply that.
I find handbrake more difficult, I guess what you perceive as easy depends on how you learned. I find clutch kicks initiates a drift more smoothly.
What in particular are you having problems with? When I started my problem was over-correcting the slide and snap turning off the track , must have be the fact I have a momo. You should just let the wheel slip through your hands when you start sliding then stop it from turning when you have the angle you want. If you're having problems with correct entry then just drive the line you normally would at a reduced speed (only go in a bit wider so you don't touch the kerb) and start small angle drifts near the apex, then gradually start each drift earlier and earlier at a comfortable pace. I found it made it harder if I focused on the correcting part, I don't know how a g25 is, but you should focus on centering the wheel smoothly as you come out of the drift, let the self aligning torque take care of the actual drift.
Oh... I thought that was the only car that felt right
Thing is though that you still can't jump to conclusions about how a RWD saloon on road tyres would handle in iRacing. I'm just really curious to see how the car and ffb would respond to power oversteer, it just feels so right in LFS, and if iRacing were the same then it'd be a winner to me.
So did anyone ever get an iRacing survey sent to them a few weeks ago? Funny how when they asked "what other sims do you race" LFS was never mentioned. Maybe they are afraid that if people find out about LFS and try it, they will realize that iRacing isn't the only realistic sim and that it's not that much further ahead in terms of physics as everyone made it out to be
Not to mention the introduction of more real cars and laser scanned tracks.
I'm still awaiting the day that they introduce a car without slicks or racing tyres so people can really judge it's realism. Pity such a powerful physics engine is going to waste without demonstrating it's full potential for modeling road cars.
I imagine he meant vertical load, vertical load would be a function of lateral load so they go hand in hand. Hence open differentials behaving strangely (the opposite wheel going to full rev)... Not to mention all the video's on youtube with people keeping the car on two wheels for far too long
Plus the coefficient of friction would simply reduce overall grip and he stated (and as you re-stated) they didn't want to do this. The post seemed pretty clear to me.
I agree that the current LFS tires have too much grip, so the only thing I can think of them doing to fix the issue without sacrificing cornering speeds would be to allow more slip, that way you'd have more realistic behavior like lift off oversteer and more realistic breaking of traction/powersliding.
But I was wondering if the new tire physics would cause the force feedback to behave differently. For example will opposite lock occur with a bit less force now? (The stopping force on the wheel after you finish the initial part of the counter steer feels very strong and springy as is right now)
Great news! Just in time for when I plan to buy S2.
Will there be a bit more lift off oversteer now? I figured that if more than 2 wheels will be touching the ground during a corner now, that it will happen more easily. If there will be, then LFS will blow iRacing away by leaps and bounds
I guess that more or less explains the weird differential behavior and possibly the liftoff oversteer being too subtle, I was suspecting excessive grip as the culprit.
Thanks, that seems to more or less work. Road going setups shouldn't have rear ARB's though, and most of the time setting the rear ARB high will cause you to oversteer in all situations, not just on liftoff. About the differential, does turning FWD cars with open diffs really cause the inside wheel to spin so easily? It almost reaches redline on every corner. It seems very exaggerated to me, I would have expected a little bit of spinning or some hopping.
That's the other thing I was wondering about in LFS, putting a locked diff on the cars doesn't have as adverse an effect on handling as I thought it should. They seem to turn just as well, and sometimes even better than they do with a lsd
Most of the setups I've made with lift off oversteer have full blown oversteer, that is if you just turn while coasting the car will spin regardless of whether or not weight was transferred forward. So it's simply oversteer not lift oversteer. And as I've already mentioned, even cars that understeer can lose rear traction if you suddenly let off the throttle so I'm convinced some aspect of the physics isn't the way it should be.
Thanks for the setup site.. As for iRacing I agree that the SRF was pretty annoying to drive because of that. I found that the solstice has noticeable lift oversteer too. Just turn it tight in an open area and let off, it does a 180 if you're in first . It's not really noticeable when you're racing. I couldn't drive the skippy through most corners without keeping some throttle on, must have been your setup.
Thanks to everyone for the setup tips, and that tool is great
@ [DUck], I would assume that cars with slicks are less prone to such behavior, especially with downforce . That's why I thought there was too much grip, plus the XFG is doing 1.2 G's on a factory style setup (no ARB's open diff and 20N/mm suspension) which is definately weird. Got that with F1PerfView. After adding a rear bar I started to get lift oversteer, but it was still too subtle. The rear end would sort of sway out slowly, and only if you continued keeping the wheel turned would it begin to [slowly] snap away. Far more managable than RL considering all the effort I had to put into recovery was to turn the wheel less. Like RIP2004 said even understeer prone cars should have noticable LO. For example, I know for a fact that Impreza's have lift oversteer with the factory suspension and it's a pretty understeer prone car otherwise.
NSX FReeDoM: Technically my susbscription cost $0, I got the free radical trial. But then I ended up buying the skippy on top of that. I didn't renew because I wansn't convinced the price was worth it. There is something off about the way the cars drive.
I see what you mean. I was driving the default FBM setup and it's there, but it's really subtle and gradual. I would have thought stiffening the rear ARB enough would lead to snappy off throttle oversteer but it didn't make as big a difference as I thought it would... In iR (the skippy for example) if you didn't stay on the throttle through the corner you'd end up sideways, it was especially noticable if the corner was entered too quickly. I'm just confused about what's right and what's not . Based on knowledge I've gathered and experience I would have thought that it would be easier to lose the back end by lifting off suddenly.. I guess I should just buy S2, I've been wanting to do that for awhile.
Just off the throttle, I know most sports cars in RL will oversteer if you lift (also at higher rpm's engine braking should make it even more pronounced). As for the more powerful cars, they have downforce so I wouldn't really expect it as much in that case.
My iRacing subscription just ended recently and there is one thing I noticed that seems to be missing in LFS (or at least it's barely there). Every car I drove in iR would oversteer when lifting off the throttle, even the solstice would to some extent. Setup would make some difference but it was there most of the time.
I'm only a demo racer but I like the driving feel in LFS much more. Below the limit in iRacing the cars have some sort of point there go there handling if anyone knows what I mean. But the one thing that's bothering me is that I'm not getting any lift off oversteer in LFS. Even if the damper setup goes against it, don't basic car dynamics say that it should be there to some extent?
When I don't have my wheel around I play LFS with the mouse and I can easily blip. It will be easier to get the hang of it if you press your clutch button down for a bit longer than you usually do. Just takes a quick click to do it right.
I'm not sure how car licensing works but don't car manufacturers usually give licensing rights to only one game company at a time? If that's the case then maybe it's delayed because of iRacing's new partnership with vw