Aha! That solves the problem... didn't even have the wheel power plugged in!

Quote from mrodgers :

#1 If the wheel is new, call logitech and they will send a new unit out and many here has said they didn't even ask for the old one. So then with the old unit, the following can apply and you have 2 units.

#2 I had the loose side to side throttle pedal calibration problem on mine. What happens is the pedals are continuously auto calibrating. The pedal can deflect slightly to the side causing the pot to turn a bit more than normal and the drivers calibrate to that movement. Then when the pedals are deflected normally, they won't go a full 100% because of the "over calibration" that happened when the pedal twisted to the side a bit. I had it happen and wrapped a single layer of black electrical tape around both the throttle and brake shaft. The insides of the unit is very simple and easy to take apart and put back together. I haven't had a problem with calibration because of this since the tape fix.

#3 There is a small tab on the bottom of the pots that sit in a molded groove to keep them in place. The pots can pull up out of the mounting very easily. There are suggestions on the web to glue the pot in place, but then it is not easily removed if they ever need replaced. I had the pot come loose on mine during a league race. Every time I braked, I would get up to 50% throttle because the wires of the brake pedal inside the unit would move and push on the throttle pot. Since the pot wasn't securely mounted, it would twist giving me throttle when I braked. I wedged a small folded up piece of paper in the mounting groove to take up some of the slack on mine. I saw a suggestion since I fixed mine of someone using some kind of putty or bubble gum or something pliable to hold the pot in place rather than gluing. That would hold it in, yet allow it to be easily removed if you ever need to replace the pot.

Hope that all helps someone. I haven't had a lick of trouble with my momo pedals since taking them apart and doing these fixes. The loose pot fix I did about 15 minutes before a league race, so that tells you how simple they are to take apart and put back together.

For some good graphical explainations on the Momo pedal fixes (applies to DFP pedals as well) go here http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_m.html and follow the MOMO Racing Repair button at the top of the page. Really good site and some other nice annoyance fixes as well.

Thanks for this. But now I am thinking of returning the entire wheel altogether and just going for the DFP. Just today I tried out my momo again (hadn't played in maybe 5 days), and before I begin racing, I notice the two lights on the wheel are off. The wheel was working, but there was no force feedback, and the calibration was off centre... I had to steer a fair bit to the right for the car to go straight. The force feedback had stopped working once before, but I was able to fix it. This time I couldn't... I checked the controller options in control panel, and force feedback was at its default settings, and I had to re-install the wheel to calibrate it (correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think there is a way to calibrate the wheel through the software given after the initial installation unless you reinstall).

Anyway, I don't know what could have happened. The wheel hadn't been touched in a few days, so no damage could have come to it. Not sure if it is a software or hardware problem, but these glitches are getting to be a problem.

Yeah, I just got the Logitech Momo Racing wheel as a gift. I really enjoy it except for its 240 degree rotation, and now this problem which you mention. I keep hearing the Logitech Driving Force Pro is the way to go, but I am iffy about getting it since everyone I have looked lists it only for the PS2 console (I imagine when you use it for the computer, you just hook it up without software installation required?) Anyway, I don't feel like spending a good $150 for a wheel just because it rotates more. If this accelerator becomes a real problem, I may look into returning the wheel and upgrading. If I can keep the accelerator working, is it possible to buy just a newer wheel and use my current pedals?

Had an epiphany today. It seems my wheel wasn't completely calibrated and my throttle was only going about 92%... I reconnected the USB and now it is at a full 100%. What a difference having full throttle makes lol . My old best at GP with the GTI was 1:36.27. Now my best is 1:35.5. Huge improvement, especially off the line and on straightaways. Even so, these replies have been great to help optimize my start times; thanks for taking the time.

What about for simple FWD cars like the GTI? Just floor it on the grid or wait for just before the green lights?

I just realized I posted this in general when I meant for it to be in beginners. Thanks for the responses though. I figured it was just in the timing and that I was doing something wrong, but I think I have alot to learn as just about everyone has a better start off the line than me . Another question... any idea how to control the Formula V8 off the line? lol Add just the slightest throttle and that car spins like a top.

I recently got the full version of S2, but have been lurking awhile and only posted a few times. I think I am about an average driver, but one thing that kills me is my start off the line. I have some pretty good setups that I have either downloaded through links on this website, or gotten from players in game. Mainly, I drive the GTR on BP course (yes, even with the full version I enjoy driving the basic FWD cars). It seems no matter what I do, everyone else gets a better start than I. Hold the gas down and the car wheels spin at the line, try to find a middle ground and I tend to underrev. For RWD, I imagine you have to be gentle on the start to stay in control? Is my thought process right here, or am I way off and missing something in getting a good start off the line?

Quote from Teufel :

I don't know where you have this information from. The Logitech DFP comes with pedals and does have a USB connector (there is no version without). I have one and don't want to miss it anymore

I'm probably just being a noob. I know nothing about the PS2, as I don't own one; does it have a USB port? Here is my search result for the wheel on Google:
http://www.google.com/search?h ... ro&btnG=Google+Search

Just about every link says it is PS2 only, with a couple saying it is compatible with some PC games too.

Some very good advice given thus far. The clutch technique has worked best for me. Very simple to initiate the drift. The problem for me now is ending the drift correctly. To regain traction, I let off the throttle but I tend to lose a lot more speed exiting the turn than the other players drifting online. If I try to maintain my speed and keep on the throttle, I either spin out or don't lose the drift at the turn's exit. I imagine exiting the turn has more to do with amount of countersteer so you can keep the revs up. Any advice on this aspect of drifting? You all have been very helpful to this point.

Edit: I was looking up prices of different racing wheels and following the advice of one of the posters here, looked for the Logi Driving Force pro wheel. I liked what I saw (minus the fact that it doesn't include foot pedals), but apparently this is a PS2 controller. Is there a version for USB?

Last edited by SuperSmitt, Sun, 13 Nov 2005 00:57.

Again, some great replies. Thanks for taking the time.

Currently, I am using either just my mouse/keyboard or my thrustmaster joystick. I am liking the mouse better, since it gives me a larger range of movement relative to wheel turn. I have a very, very old wheel but it is not USB and my computer doesn't have the required port to connect it. Is just using the mouse OK, or will it make drifting near impossible? Also, if I were to buy a brand new wheel, what do you all recommend in terms of quality and realism?

Yes, I was using the GTi car solo to try and drift. Is it really impossible with this car? I used the GT turbo in online mode, and could feel an immediate difference in how the car handled. The GT turbo was much easier to get into a skid, but I couldn't get out of it! I kept spinning out, which never ever happened in the GTi. Lastly, I don't think I can make any car tune ups in the demo version, but someone please correct me if I am wrong. I intend to purchase the S2 eventually, and when I do the tips given here will certainly help me with my drifting goals.

Edit: Also wanted to add yet another noob question: What is full steering lock? Is that a setting only for users of an actual wheel?

Last edited by SuperSmitt, Wed, 9 Nov 2005 05:41.

Thanks for the replies. I just think drifting is very interesting and the fact that a car can lose traction for as long as it does, while the driver is still in control is also quite intriguing. I don't get how the driver can have the wheel turned AGAINST the skid (i.e. if the car is skidding around a left hand turn, the driver turns the wheel to the right) without the car straightening itself out. In the LFS demo, I have tried to replicate this but am still having little success, even after reading the instructions people gave here.

Here is what I do if I want the car to drift left: I accelerate to second or third gear. Then I steer to the right, then sharply back to the left, sometimes adding E-brake, and finally back to the right where I hold the wheel. I always keep the throttle at full. The car skids facing to the left of the direction it is heading but after a few seconds it straightens back out. What am I doing wrong in not being able to hold the drift? I have tried using more/less throttle, using the brake and/or ebrake, or adjusting countersteer (I think that is what it's called). Like I said, I'm a noob

I know many people look down on drifting, but I have been looking for a simulation racing game that has realistic physics to allow for drifting. I just downloaded the demo to this game, but I still can't figure out how to initial the drift. How is this done? Do you need a specially tuned car? Keep in mind I am a noob. Thanks.