Thanks for the reply.
I guess it's better to just measure it and compare. Was just wondering also if anyone had attempted this, it appears not very likely.

Recently while taking apart my G25, I noticed right after my left paddle started to misfire. I took it apart again and blew some air on the switch and now it seems to be ok. The switch seems a little used and maybe it is starting to go. I think it must be fairly straight forward to desolder and replace. My question is: Has anyone done this? and if so: Do you have a specific part number? So far I have found these that seem to resemble the logitech original switches, but not 100%

http://www.conrad.fr/microrupt ... 4_49913_840092_212408_FAS

Thanks!

The fan over the PCB sucks fresh air in through the front (I sawed out the front middle section) and gives it to the small motor fans. You can see how Jadran just got rid of the front plate all together.
I originally had only the motor fans but the case would heat anyway as not enough air could get in and out.

Also on the top of the case you can see small air holes in the shape of slits. Only two on each side are actually open but there are 5 on each side "visually", I just cut out the other 3 on each side. It now lets more air out directly above the motors. The case now stays cool even after an hour of heavy racing, and at 3v the fans are silent and still do their job.

So in answer to your question, I think the motors are the only thing that overheats. But I guess the PCB therefore being cooler as a result can only be a good thing.

Last edited by HMMMM_M, Mon, 22 Aug 2011 15:00.

Here's my completed fan mod! It was quite a job to get the front fan to not hit the PCB board or top inside of the case, a little piece of thin flexible sheet metal cut bent did the trick, although I had to bend attach and bend again to get it to fit.

The wheel stays cool for hours now!!!! I highly recommend this mod to anyone who is patient and can solder a couple of contacts. One thing to watch out for: Taking the wheel off and removing the plugs for the paddle shifter and wheel buttons, IF THE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS SLIP YOU WILL SHEER OFF THE WIRES. I say this in all caps as I got very lucky and only skinned a couple of wires that I repaired with a little epoxy on a needle.

Good luck to anyone who does this, and thanks again Jadran!!! :bowdown:



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Sorry Jadran one last question. Do you have a link to exactly the fan you used? I'm confused which size to get.

Thanks again for you help!:bowdown:

This is probably a dumb question, but how did you mount that front fan without the fan-casing? All I can find are normal fans in the plastic case...

Quote from Jadran :

I think couple of holes in the front grill (2x10mm) to allow for air intake is not enough.
See picture below and if you want drill hole in the middle of front grill

So maybe I should just knock that middle panel out then? But I'd surely have to take it apart again I think drilling it while its still attached might me a bit crazy/risky
I'd also need to somehow filter the dust. Did you just leave the whole front open like that?

thanks for the speedy reply Jadran,

I didn't mount the PCB fan like I said but I did drill a couple of holes in the front grill (2x10mm) to allow for air intake. I'm not sure that's enough but since it was a pain to open the wheel without chopping off the fragile wires for the buttons and paddles, I really want to avoid opening it up again . I guess even without the PCB fan it's still better than nothing?

Yeah I watched some videos of the T500 it's pretty loud, but I imagine it doesn't vibrate?

First off thanks Jadran

I just did this mod with the two fans mounted on the motors. I decided to leave the PCB fan out though....

Problem is the two little fans when set above 3v in the multi adapter I bought start to become very loud and cause very fine vibrations in the steering wheel, they sound off balance or something. At 3v they are ok, but without the other fan I'm wondering if this is high enough to even do very much cooling, or is 3v enough speed? The case still becomes hot on top, although not "as" hot.

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks Again!