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Mine arrived yesterday (along with the postcard gift) and are of great quality. Thanks.
Got 3 of 'em. I was a bit skeptical about the shipping costs at first but:
After hours exploring the wonderful environment (its really amazing, congratulations) I fell onto this bug. Ways to reproduce in description
https://youtu.be/5Tco0w_miec
https://youtu.be/5Tco0w_miec
These. Well it wholly depends on the POV I guess.
Watching people going over fine details, I am beginning to think that the sim has set the bar too high for it's own good. I mean, come on, you know you can't find better overall physics out there. Simulating something as complicated as an automobile (a REAL automobile), well, I don't think it can get significantly better in the next years, given what happens under the hood every moment. I'd say we are approaching reality asymptotically, same goes for graphics.
Content wise, I am semi-dissapointed though, but this is so subjective I am not complaining. Hoping for some cool updates.
Content wise, I am semi-dissapointed though, but this is so subjective I am not complaining. Hoping for some cool updates.
Multiplayer is gonna be so epic, full grid with 49s @ Imola and stuff.
I'm not too optimistic about that, because
Did you try:
Yeah consider it a mistake, although that's why I said blip in the parenthesis, touching the brake a little just gets the car out of traction.
Watching videos of crashes, I am surprised by the amount of FWD oversteer-caused ones.
Thank you all for your inputs. I tested the XFG with your suggested setups (standard-ish) and it really oversteered, although I had to make it intentional (the race setups give me huge oversteer, but always controllable and, well, useful).
I still think that it's more forgiving than real life though. I struggled to make it >90º "by mistake", and when it did, it was because I provocatively braked hard (sometimes even blip) or lifted off, with some intentionally late correction. Or well, maybe the drivers in these videos are more clueless than I think (except for the onboard one which is because it can happen in racing, he goes very fast and he steers instantly when the co-driver shouts "cut, CUT").
Maybe it's indeed a setup thing. With my XFR (I drive it almost exclusively) I never get this behaviour even when top lapping and I am on the grip limit, even if it oversteers, I can correct it, unless I touch grass or hit a big bump/kerb which is often an instant 180.
I can't actually validate what you said, but it made a LOT of sense and explained a lot. Cheers.
I still think that it's more forgiving than real life though. I struggled to make it >90º "by mistake", and when it did, it was because I provocatively braked hard (sometimes even blip) or lifted off, with some intentionally late correction. Or well, maybe the drivers in these videos are more clueless than I think (except for the onboard one which is because it can happen in racing, he goes very fast and he steers instantly when the co-driver shouts "cut, CUT").
Maybe it's indeed a setup thing. With my XFR (I drive it almost exclusively) I never get this behaviour even when top lapping and I am on the grip limit, even if it oversteers, I can correct it, unless I touch grass or hit a big bump/kerb which is often an instant 180.
I can't actually validate what you said, but it made a LOT of sense and explained a lot. Cheers.
Yeah but I couldn't reproduce that ingame. I tried with cold tires, braking on the turn or letting go the throttle etc but it would just slow down and/or go off-line.
Question about FWD oversteer
Pardon me if there is something similar but I couldn't find any.
So, given that LFS physics are probably still the most accurate out there, what about its FWD oversteer (especially when lifting off or braking while on turn)?
It occured to me that I never had problems with any FWD car drifting uncontrollably. Only chance is to have one of the rear wheels touch some grass or something.
Watch these:
@6m47s http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipqRXwfSLzU#t=6m47s
@1m20s http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSQ2ieyvaJ0#t=1m20s
the classic http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cW6WuhFH2k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbPdW1_ZMNQ
Nothing like this has ever happened in LFS. So, is it just the old physics waiting to be updated blah blah, or am I missing something?
edit: Well it's been asked again, but the question remains.
So, given that LFS physics are probably still the most accurate out there, what about its FWD oversteer (especially when lifting off or braking while on turn)?
It occured to me that I never had problems with any FWD car drifting uncontrollably. Only chance is to have one of the rear wheels touch some grass or something.
Watch these:
@6m47s http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipqRXwfSLzU#t=6m47s
@1m20s http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSQ2ieyvaJ0#t=1m20s
the classic http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cW6WuhFH2k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbPdW1_ZMNQ
Nothing like this has ever happened in LFS. So, is it just the old physics waiting to be updated blah blah, or am I missing something?
edit: Well it's been asked again, but the question remains.
Last edited by truepiece, .
Can't answer directly, but by LFS setups I've learned that this is caused by under-inflating the tires. I am not saying they have set the car up incorrectly
, just noting it.Also interesting, but expected, are the white flat spots after the locking. We really can't say anything else without a color mapping.
Last edited by truepiece, .
Amazing. So much to say about those 50 seconds.
Cool.
With my Phenom 965, 4GB RAM and shitty GT630 I have playable fps at low-medium settings (averaging at 45). I could upgrade the GT630 to a 7750 but no more because the PSU does not provide auxiliary PCI power.
Is it safe to assume that the final version will be technically the same with the TP? I can live with my current performance, but don't want it to become worse.
Tried the TP. The physics are the best I've driven in a racing game yet. Or close to anyway. But the handling of the Elise makes me wanna smash the screen into pieces.
desarrolladores siguen trabajando en ello. Tienes que esperar.
It's not like you are 3-4 secs off WR, you are very close, so general advice would not help at all. Grab a hotlap analyzer (LRA is good, you can also try the online one at lfsworld-maybe better choice) and compare your SPR with the WR one, that will be faster and more efficient.
If you mean 4 hours for online, it sounds ok, but generally a 4 hour demo is a bit too much. Generally a time limiting demo is too much, someone would like to have some time before deciding, even with 1 car and 1 track.
Personally I really thought that the 1-hour limit for the rfactor demo was too much, so that out of frustration I through the idea of buying it out of the window. It made me feel some kind of stress to make the best possible test within the time limit, that eventually it turned me away of the game.
Last edited by truepiece, .
Limit the demo online time? Yeah and then having x10 people flooding the free voucher thread like "omfg my demo time ended plzzz no money for buy S2 plz give i buy u beer 
".
What I mean is, although fair idea (it's already too generous giving the demo users what they are given), people who "cannot afford" £24 for buying the full game after some days in demo (like it is now), would never do it anyway, it's all about the attitude actually.
".What I mean is, although fair idea (it's already too generous giving the demo users what they are given), people who "cannot afford" £24 for buying the full game after some days in demo (like it is now), would never do it anyway, it's all about the attitude actually.
Thanks for the info. It makes sense now.
About tire life and traction
Hey there,
I was fooling around Westhill the other day with my XFR to see what's going on with the tire wear (how many laps it takes for a tire to pop etc) and I hit upon something that seems strange to me.
Forgive any noobness in this post as I have no experience in endurance racing or anything above 10 laps.
When the pad gets smaller and smaller, it tends to cool and heat more quickly (I guess because of less pad volume -> less thermal capacity -> less energy to change temperature but anyway).
So, while having an almost dead tire (wear-wise, not temp-wise), some rough cornering can heat up the tire quickly, but a short straight afterwards is more than enough to compensate that, giving you green tires for the next corner.
All that would be ok if the traction decreased with tire wear. But that was not the case, as the traction of the almost-dead tire at green temperatures was on par with the traction of a new tire at green temperatures.
Just note that the tire popped at the first half of lap 36, and on lap 35 I had made a new PB.
So to sum up, we have a tire that has like-new traction and cools down rapidly (useful in tire-eating tracks like Westhill Rev) until, of course, it pops. Sounds too good to me.
Is this really accurate? Shouldn't the tire lose a lot of traction after a certain amount of wear? My last laps were really effortless, fast, and with no worries about frying up the front tires.
I was fooling around Westhill the other day with my XFR to see what's going on with the tire wear (how many laps it takes for a tire to pop etc) and I hit upon something that seems strange to me.
Forgive any noobness in this post as I have no experience in endurance racing or anything above 10 laps.
When the pad gets smaller and smaller, it tends to cool and heat more quickly (I guess because of less pad volume -> less thermal capacity -> less energy to change temperature but anyway).
So, while having an almost dead tire (wear-wise, not temp-wise), some rough cornering can heat up the tire quickly, but a short straight afterwards is more than enough to compensate that, giving you green tires for the next corner.
All that would be ok if the traction decreased with tire wear. But that was not the case, as the traction of the almost-dead tire at green temperatures was on par with the traction of a new tire at green temperatures.
Just note that the tire popped at the first half of lap 36, and on lap 35 I had made a new PB.
So to sum up, we have a tire that has like-new traction and cools down rapidly (useful in tire-eating tracks like Westhill Rev) until, of course, it pops. Sounds too good to me.
Is this really accurate? Shouldn't the tire lose a lot of traction after a certain amount of wear? My last laps were really effortless, fast, and with no worries about frying up the front tires.
Maybe Options -> View -> Clocks mode = off ?
edit: If you mean hide them from the camera, then you have to set the custom camera accordingly (X-pos,Y,Z,Pitch,FOV).
edit: If you mean hide them from the camera, then you have to set the custom camera accordingly (X-pos,Y,Z,Pitch,FOV).
The current version of LFS works well with this. 
You generally want to:
Run the code in python, so you could have the data in usable form (variables).
Then get pyserial so you can get the data on the serial port (usb).
Then with Processing or whatever you get the serial data on the arduino (you have to work a bit on the data packaging, though).
This is of course do-able with other languages, but, although I hate python, it's too easy to ignore. Just download the python IDE and run it, it works as is (I think).
You generally want to:
Run the code in python, so you could have the data in usable form (variables).
Then get pyserial so you can get the data on the serial port (usb).
Then with Processing or whatever you get the serial data on the arduino (you have to work a bit on the data packaging, though).
This is of course do-able with other languages, but, although I hate python, it's too easy to ignore. Just download the python IDE and run it, it works as is (I think).
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