Quote from lrdbsi :

blah blah same old blah meh,
http://files.filefront.com/Dum ... /;5094592;;/fileinfo.html
like it, hate it i dnt care!

Make sure you set passengers to "none", otherwise you think they've just opened a shaken can of Coke when you back off.

Mad, been waiting for this for ages

1 Question though, you planning on releasing LSFTweak with the sound mod that LFSTweak 1 had? Sound "raspyness" I think it was?

I made the best sounding 13B & 20B rotaries ever with that thing

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yes drill your sump as a oil supply for your compressor wheel(from natraly aspirated cars,)

OOOHH Jesus this is great work here!

I hate to tell you mate, if theres oil on your comp wheel, its time for a rebuild! I always wondered why turbo manufacturers used pistons rings to keep the oil from leaking onto the Turbine/Compressor wheels...

So tell me, I buy a 180sx standard turbo....my "wheel" is lubricated....where does the oil go then? Into my intercooler piping? Into my throttle body?...or does the oil get "sucked" back through the turbo? I might be better off driving a magic carpet non turbo?

You might also want to keep in mind, that you would usually tap the block for oil supply, and if theres enough pressure to push oil from the sump to the Turbo, then i'd be pretty inclined to do a compression test....or in your case, its a Honda, so burn the thing and push it off a high cliff.

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if u are to question me about this your a ****ing noob who dont know shit, lol thats funny,

Happy New Year!

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a axial roller bearing on most taking axial force from pressure giving long bearing life,

What happens if its a Bush Bearing Turbo? Less Lifespan?

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oil line in running from sump using compressor pressure to drive oil through lines to lubricate whee

Lubricate the wheel? From the sump? I think its time to read Fast Fours again champ

Quote from tristancliffe :

And fitting a decompression plate between the block and the head will increase you chances of head gasket failure ten fold. I can't understand why people do it.

Then you'll need to get the fuel system totally recalibrated, probably fit bigger valves to get any real benefit from it. I'd leave the decompression plate, and fit either shorter conrods or custom pistons - choose carefully and they aren't that expensive...

Oh, and if you are fitting a supercharger, don't expect much increase in power - perhaps 2o or 30hp at most. The real gain is with low down torque, so perhaps when trying to 'show off' you should quote the peak torque figures. If the kit itself quotes hp figures, DO NOT buy it - the people who 'make' it obviously don't know what they are talking about.

As much as arguing with lrdbsi would be pure enjoyment, i'm gonna have to disagree here. Depending on what Supercharger you use, you'd expect to get at VERY LEAST a 20% increase in power over standard, its forced induction . Seeing this thread though, I think lrdbsi would go with this type: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Electri ... ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Quote from lrdbsi :

actualy not many cars can handle 5 psi. or for long that is, say a rb20det... 5 psi will blow the ceramic turbo and override the fuel pump also, putting alot of pressure on the electronic coil packs, soon blowing them ,, ( telling from experience ) it aint all about boost lol , maybe one or two psi diff for single player use and a fuel control regulator for u to control the airfuel, rb4 is a not similar to a mitsubitchsi lancer,
from driving many cars in real life id say its most similar to a celica GT-4 turbo,
people who drive one will agree with me , peace

Actually mate, you'll find an RB20DET can run 12/13psi comfortably without fuel system mods. The ceramic turbine wheel falls off when running 14psi upwards