Me racing at a local street sprint last Sunday. Enjoy!






IMG_10246 by MotorDrive Photography, on Flickr


IMG_10250 by MotorDrive Photography, on Flickr


IMG_11344 by MotorDrive Photography, on Flickr


IMG_9664 by MotorDrive Photography, on Flickr


IMG_9678 by MotorDrive Photography, on Flickr

Quote from TypeRacing :

It's always nice to see old little civic running on a powerful engine

I had same Civic myself, raced with that in Estonia for many years. Had many different engines - D16A6, D16Z5 and B16A2.
Sold it last year though. New owner painted all rims to neon-orange, looks kind a cool now - http://superkross.ee/data/albbig/6411.jpg

Nice car. Looks very heavily modified, must be very light weight.

Quote from Johnny Mountain :

If that's yours then you're a very lucky guy.

Thanks. We're pretty lucky in New Zealand thanks to cheap Japanese imports (The majority of cars on our roads are Japanese), and relatively relaxed laws on modifying cars.

The civics are quite popular thanks to their great handling (double wishbone suspension), light weight, and ease of swapping Integra type r motors, getting decent power for a N/A engine relatively cheaply.

tuned to 144 kW at the wheels.

Its a 1.8L Integra Type R motor with a few mods.

Gets up to 190km/h down the straights, in comparison my 4AGE Toyota Levin would barely get over 150km/h down the same straight.

Such a fun little car to drive with that motor. I love it

LFS is dead guys, face it.

Me racing my Civic:




Engine Bay:

My 1990 Honda Civic SIR EF9.

Worked B18CR motor under the hood. Dyno tuned to 144kW at the front wheels.

It could just be mud/dirt stuck in the wheels. Blast them with a hose. Or you have lost a balancing weight.

Similar thing happened when I spun off the race track at 100km/h into the muddy grass. Front right wheel filled up with mud and caused sever vibrations at speed, so I had to abort the run and return to the pits. Clean the wheel out with water and all was good after that.

Me racing at manfield





1992 Toyota Levin. Cost me NZD $2100, equivalent of 1073 pounds

Cheap racing

I tried button clutch for the first time yesterday and instantly wiped 0.2s off my BL1 XFG PB, its way faster and needs to be fixed.

The clutch right now is unrealistic. You can shift faster than would be possible in a normal road car with a standard clutch.

I have thought of a solution, though I don't know how easy it would be to implement: The clutch should have a maximum bite pressure, just like a real clutch and if you exceed that it will just slip. Therefore no matter how fast you engage or disengage the clutch, shifting will be limited by the clutch itself not the button rate.... No more unrealistically fast shifting.

Hit up our teamspeak server: 203.97.111.228:8767

Ninja is usually on there. If you explain yourself i'm sure he will sort it out

You have to set the date correctly, and the time approximatly correct (to the nearest hour) or it doesn't work.

Quote from Vendetta :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ... Wv7rI&feature=related

anyone find it odd how similar this glitch is to the one in LFS?

Haha, this is a similar LFS one I recorded a while ago. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6komWdRQaw

Yeah, if we could find out how to get it to work, someone could make a program (someone else on this forum, i'm not a programmer). Then we could make an lfs script for each car to execute the program, changing the steering wheel rotation.

Quote from farcar :

Frankly, you look like a nob posting this on the same day as a test patch is released.

A test patch with a few minor bug fixes. Whoop de doo.

LFS developement is dead lets face it.

Sounds like you pop corned your engine

yes its real

go to https://www.lfs.net/?page=shop

scroll down, look at localised sales points

that links to this page http://www.actual.cz/index.php?pg=11

The LFS lapper drift thing is great!







We use to have it set up on our team server so it would automatically spec drifters!
If you did a small drift it would say "[name], if you're trying to drift then dont...". If you did a big drift it would spec you

I have a G25 and my hands are always at 9 and 3 position (540 degrees).

I started off using 10 and 2 position, but soon reliased that 9 and 3 was more comfortable and precise for me.

Quote from zeugnimod :

XRT slower than the RB4?

I hope that's sarcasm. Go to LFS World, look at the world records and see for yourself.

Also I recently drove in an XRT and RB4 League and RB4s dominated easily.

Rofl at people getting upset at the way people drive in a destruction derby server.

Its a destruction derby, anything goes. it isn't like bump and jump, its pure carnage.

now quit QQing and have some fun!

It depends on how good you are with each car. Do some hotlapping in each car and see how fast you can go.

The XRT is much easier on the tyres, but harder to drive and slower than the RB4 and FXO.

Both the RB4 and FXO are hard on the front tyres during a long race
, temps will get very high on a tight twisty track like SO5, without any long straights for them to cool off. so forget RB4 because its slower than FXO and eats tyres anyway.

I would drive the FXO because im naturally faster in front wheel drive cars, my second choice would be XRT.

I think this problem came about when the maximum button control rate was increased from 6 to 10. I think it was Patch Y.

There are many easy solutions:

- Limit the maximum button control rate
- Make a seperate button control rate option for clutch, brake and throttle, then limit the clutch rate.
- increase the speed of the automatic clutch to 10