What does Rev B wheel mean? I bought my DFP 2 weeks ago, at a store, its a brand new one.

Quote from Tisza :

What does Rev B wheel mean? I bought my DFP 2 weeks ago, at a store, its a brand new one.

Rev B is a version of the wheel. Rev A had problems, but considering you've just bought it brand new it should be Rev B

Quote from Tisza :

That's not really nice... so let's say in about 1 or 2 years I shall expect that my pedals gonna brake or smthg?

Those pedals might struggle to last two years of heavy use anyway, even the later revision. The pots on mine started spiking after six months.

The G25 pedals are substantially better, both in build and feel. Worth the extra, if for nothing else than to avoid the headaches those old Logi pedals cause. I had to open mine and clean the pots every few weeks. Got boring fast.

Quote from Gentlefoot :

I've got a logitech MOMO Black. I've had it for about 10 months and have done over 20k in LFS mileage.

On Saturday I began to get a problem with the brake pedal. This problem had been occurring occasionally over the last few months but had just got much worse. The first time it happened I didn't even notice until someone pointed out the my brake lights were on all the time. It seems the brakes were coming on occassionally even though I wasn't using them. Now the problem was happening pretty much at least once every lap!

So, I decided to investigate. I took the pedals unit apart and could see the potentiometers on the end of the pedal axles. I plugged the unit in and moved the pedals. I found that the runners that the axles, or the axles themselves had warn slightly. This was allowing a bit of movement forward and back of the axles. I noticed that this movement can be caused by putting pressure on the sides of the pedals. This was causing the brake pedal potentiometer to move slightly giving a small signal that the brakes were on.

I also noticed that as I moved the potentiometers, a signal was produced. So, I moved the potentiometers as far back (so they produced no signal) as possible, put the pedal unit back together and bish-bash-bosh, job done, pedals fixed. No new potentiometers needed.

Just thought I'd share this as I'm sure others will have had the same problem.

Quote from [RF]-art555 :

Rev B is a version of the wheel. Rev A had problems, but considering you've just bought it brand new it should be Rev B

I experienced the brake on automatically flaw on my Rev B and brought it back under warranty (1.3 years old) and i got a Rev C now.

Anybody got experiences with durability on Rev C.?

Quote from SpikeyMarcoD :

I experienced the brake on automatically flaw on my Rev B and brought it back under warranty (1.3 years old) and i got a Rev C now.

Anybody got experiences with durability on Rev C.?

Where does it say if it's Rev C or not?

Quote from Gnomie :

Where does it say if it's Rev C or not?

ON the pack with CD drivers usually

Yep on the CD plastic packaging

Ah OK, I'll check that then. Just have to find it first.

Quote from Qvarnis :

Is it in LFS or my pedals?

My wheel/pedal set is Wingman Formula Force GP, after using th pedals for... lets say, around an hour, it cuts throttle randomly.

I mean, when I push it pedal to the metal, it just suddenly cuts it, then it works again, and cuts again. Don`t really know how to describe it, but it`s comparable to fuelcutting.

I still can drive around, but it`s just freaking annoying when you`re trying to drift as hard as you can and it just cuts your throttle randomly.

I have the same problem. I had a DFP for about 2 years and it started doing this a few weeks ago. I tried new drivers and it still happens. I just received brand new DFP and yes, it STILL Happens!!! I have tried the wheel in GTR2, rFactor and N2k3 for a few hours and the pedals are fine, as soon as I go into LFS, the throttle starts cutting again. Usually once or twice per race. I don't think I can go an entire 10 lap race without the throttle cutting at least once.

I don't normally like to blame once piece of software but I don't know what other conclusion you can come to.. It really seems to have something to do with LFS...

Hello,

I'm wondering if any company sells those wires (from pedals to wheel). The other end is the 7-pin and the others are inside the pedals, those white thingies. :P

I need a new wire or a new set of pedals, because my dog has cut the wire a couple of times and now its impossible to fix it.

So if you know any company or a store who sells that kind of wires and electronic stuff please reply to this message. Closer to Finland, the better, exept if they do deliver to other countries.

I hope you understood what I'm trying to ask. Sorry for messy english.

Quote from cobra193 :

I have the same problem. I had a DFP for about 2 years and it started doing this a few weeks ago. I tried new drivers and it still happens. I just received brand new DFP and yes, it STILL Happens!!! I have tried the wheel in GTR2, rFactor and N2k3 for a few hours and the pedals are fine, as soon as I go into LFS, the throttle starts cutting again. Usually once or twice per race. I don't think I can go an entire 10 lap race without the throttle cutting at least once.

I don't normally like to blame once piece of software but I don't know what other conclusion you can come to.. It really seems to have something to do with LFS...

Another thing to check is how many USB devices you have hooked to your PC. I had a spiking throttle, plus sometimes my gas or brake would just completely ignore the fact that I stepped on them. One thing I would up doing was unplugging a USB HD tuner while I was racing. I haven't had problems since.

I'm not sure if it's a question of the USB power being split too many ways, or if my PC isn't fast enough to keep up with polling the USB ports for input, or something else, but it works now.

Quote from stevisiov90 :

I am having problems with my G25 pedals like many other people in this thread, It is not spiking randomly, I just cannot get it to accept that I a pressing the accelerator or brake at all. when I pressed combined throttle both went on full without me pressing them, they don't appear to be worn, the game just isn't recognising them, so I can't assign them to brake or accelarate in the configurattion menu.

I have tried re-installing it using a driver I downloaded off the internet (I lost my disk). But when I was callibrating them on the driver, it recognised them perfectly.

Does anybody know a way to fix the problem, Am I doing something wrong in the configuration?

1st post

Hello

Few days ago bought G25 and I have got the same problem. In other games pedals are working, but LFS does not recognise them

What do I have to do??

thanks in advance

Quote from blondais :

Hello

Few days ago bought G25 and I have got the same problem. In other games pedals are working, but LFS does not recognise them

What do I have to do??

thanks in advance

Help

any1? what can be wrong?

Go to Axes and invert the pedals

Quote from Whiskey :

Go to Axes and invert the pedals

doesn't help
tried to change invert axes in profiler. tried in lfs. pedals are working.

LFS is z28. maybe i need other version. And profiler ir 5.08

Here are print screens:

try change trottel/break from separate to combined.
the virtual slider from the left is moving wwhen you press/unpress the pedal?

go in control panel-> game controller and see if the pedal works

I also has another problem with G25 pedals.

My throttle pedal has problems when I push the pedal to a maximum. I can see on the virtual bars, which goes up and down in the game (down to the right) It only produces something like 90% - 100% throttle. It´s vibrating in the top. It means that I´m in races loses something like 1- 1,5 seconds per lap and it is a big problem of course.

I have tried many times to open the pedal cabinet and clean for dust and hairs, but it keeps on having the same problem.

The same problem, just the other way aroung is with my brake pedal. It keeps on braking 10% even I don´t push the pedal. If i hit the pedal suddenly, it can go away untill another time I have to brake. This happens on every lap I do on a race track.

Calibrating hasn´t solved the problem too, so I have begun to use my clutch pedal instead, but it is not good as a brake pedal.

Anyone has a solution or know, what those problems are?

The pedals are 2 years old

Take a look here for a way of fixing this. Sounds like there's some dirt inside your POT mechanism. If the warranty has expired, you have nothing to loose by opening them up. Just be careful not to snap any of the thin wires! Look at the instructions posted here to figure out how to open up your pedals.

Good luck!

Thx. I will take a look at it

Hey guys i have a logitech driving force pro and i was wondering if u have to have the power supply or the pedals to play lfs. The lights on the wheels one is soild and one is flashing i was just wonding if u had to match the axis or anything?

Can someone please help me Thanks

I have one , not constant, problem with Momo force pedals.
When I draiving lfs sometimes I losing on my speed or slower the acceleration and dont have maximum speed .
I noticed in LFS that the brake pedals are activated (like when I breaking but one milimetar high spike it is wery hard to notice sometimes ) but I do not pressed the brake pedal.
Can someone help me with this?

Quote from Ki-Men :

When I draiving lfs sometimes I losing on my speed or slower the acceleration and dont have maximum speed .
I noticed in LFS that the brake pedals are activated (like when I breaking but one milimetar high spike it is wery hard to notice sometimes ) but I do not pressed the brake pedal.

I've got the exact same thing happening on my G25 pedals. It got worse over a few weeks. Thankfully mine was within waranty...

A home fix for the MOMO:
http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e5.html

well done , silverracer , I chek with tweak how the pedals are moving and see that how the throtle messing up my break pedal and break pedal messing with the throtle , anyway , I open it and clean up the inside part (with not tapeing) fixed up ewerithing in her place and close that, now how I see that no spiking anywhere on the tweek program.
Thank you once again .

sorry for the two year bump

-anyone with G25/7 issues should try this link for the UK

http://www.thesimshop.com/index.html

Has any one connected the old Logitech Driving Force wheels's pedals to the Logitech Momo Racing steering wheel?? The connections differ but I'm sure they could be made to work.