i'm one of those stubborn fellows who likes to make my own sets from scratch. after a few thousand laps, i've finally got the FXR handling well enough that i think the only thing holding me back is my driving.

so, in an effort to develop my driving, i'm thinking i should switch to a slower and twitchier car, namely the FAC. i ought to be able to figure out the low speed handling of this car, but given its lack of wings, i'm not sure where to begin with the high speed handling, and i know it likes to oversteer at speed. can anybody give me some hints to get started building my set?

Quote from evilgeek :

namely the FAC.

well anyway, one thing what u can do is to make the suspension softer which will give u better control.
also, watch that u dont use less than 50% of the available air pressure on the back as this makes the car act like driving on oil.
but as i dont drive the RAC much i cant give u more advice

I find that Bob Smith's easy race setups make the car easly to drive. no understeer or oversteer. I drive the RAC alot n city driving tracks

Quote from Zachary Zoomy :

I find that Bob Smith's easy race setups make the car easly to drive. no understeer or oversteer. I drive the RAC alot n city driving tracks

yes, Bob's setups are great, but I guess what I'm really after is an understanding of which changes to make when the "usual suspects" are not available. in other words, in a GTR car, i would use the springs and dampers to adjust the low speed handling, and the wings to adjust the high speed handling, but since the RAC has no wings, i didn't know where to start.

i fought with the car A LOT last night, and finally came up with something that wasn't a complete death trap. i don't have the settings in front of me, but from memory, the random experimenting that finally helped to control the high speed lift-throttle oversteer problem i was having was to increase the tire pressure and bump damping on the front end. it seemed to help keep the back end from pitching up and getting too loose. it's now understeering a bit, but with some more tweaking i think i can get something drivable.

Quote from evilgeek :

yes, Bob's setups are great, but I guess what I'm really after is an understanding of which changes to make when the "usual suspects" are not available. in other words, in a GTR car, i would use the springs and dampers to adjust the low speed handling, and the wings to adjust the high speed handling, but since the RAC has no wings, i didn't know where to start.

I think you basically just deal with it. That's what makes the road cars more fun than the race cars. The RA is always going to want to throw you off the road under braking, that's part of its charm.

Try this setup, i got it off Z30 Ra while playing with him on Aston National and i have tried it on the likes of BLGP rev and some Kyoto combos and it works out as a nice all rounder.

Quote from evilgeek :

can anybody give me some hints to get started building my set?

Best hint I can give is this. There are no simple magic touches you can make when setting cars up. Best read the stuff in Bob's guide, experiement and see what works for you. Keep experimenting and don't give up. Setting up cars takes lap after lap. Be prepared to put the hours in. Once you are practiced at setting cars up you'll be able to go to a track and have a car set up reassonably well in less then 20 laps. But that takes experience.

Also, make small changes and make one or two at a time no more. If the change you are making is having no effect then try changing something else.

Quote from Gentlefoot :

Keep experimenting and don't give up. Setting up cars takes lap after lap. Be prepared to put the hours in.

yea, some of my sets took me around 2-3 weeks, not that they were bad all time, i justed wanted perfection

Quote from [RCG]Boosted :

yea, some of my sets took me around 2-3 weeks, not that they were bad all time, i justed wanted perfection

The longest I've ever spent working on a single set is probably two weeks cos thats the amount of time between each round of the OWRL and ESL ERRC.

I often spend a lot of time messing up a set and trying to get it back to what it was lol. Very important to keep taking copies of your sets in case you get some changes wrong and can't get it back to how it was.

Don't put too stiff front arb, avoid clutch pack diff as plague and use less steering lock in setup that what you normally would do.

Copies is a must, after you have done test driving and feel like changing something first make copy with running numbering, so if you had set1 for example you make copy of it named set2 and set2 is where you change things, then after you have set 384 or something you start to be ready

I just made bit changes to my RAC su, lowered front ARB, lowered car and stiffened rear springs and matched dampers to springs and weights, seem to be much better again, but still I'm 4 seconds behind my goal, however it could be my driving I'm not the best driver around

Edit: Also make sure don't make it too low, I have now front 85mm and rear 95mm, if you set it very low you need to use very stiff springs to make sure that it does not bottom out as that car is not nice at all when it bottoms out, so better use higher ride height, that will help with curbs too.

Edit: Evilgeek, here is set I'm building that I used at that race we had few moments ago, maybe you can get some ideas from it

i think you raise good points about the steering lock and ride height. but what do you have against the clutch pack diff?

I tried locked diff on the rac, but then it gets way to understeery. atm i use clutch pack

Quote from evilgeek :

i think you raise good points about the steering lock and ride height. but what do you have against the clutch pack diff?

I use viscous diff, clutch pack just make it slide too much, locked diff is usable for drag racing mostly, except because some physics bugs in FWD...