hi,
I think force feedback should be recalibrated: I cannot use it with my g25 set to 900° because when a car starts to slide (which happens pretty often when I drift ) the FF tends to countersteer too much and when the slide is about to end it doesn't let you straighten the wheel until the car is actually starting to slide the other way round. I think that other games deal with this oversteer stuff much better.
Hmm - when I first installed my G25 I had a strange 'anti-centering' affect. Sounds like your problem might be the same thing. Instead of centering the steering it would do the opposite. Think I had to invert a steering axis or something.
no it only does it when the car is sliding, otherwise it works fine. I don't know what to change to make it work better, I'm not sure there's a way of fixing that (that's why I'm posting here).
There does seem to be a lag (not really the right word but it does the job) with the ffb in that the wheel doesn't rotate quick enough to catch a slide (either when oversteering or straightening up) but im not sure if this is the slight delay of ffb of the ffb (even on g25's) not always being able to rotate the wheel quick enough.
Your problem though, the way you described sounds like it could be too much ffb or similar so as bob said post up your settings
ok after you asked I checked my settings (it was 100% in LFS and 100% in logitech profiler) and tweaked them: I managed to correct this problem a bit by adding a strong centering spring: now it's 98% overall and 150% centering spring in logitech profiler, 60% in LFS.
It's a balance between mid-coorner and corner exit feel when you drift: too much centering spring vs overall and the cars wants to straighten the wheels mid corner (when you drift), too much overall vs centering spring and the cars straightens the wheels too late when you end the drift/slide, no matter how smoothly you do it.
Still, I reckon a centering spring is not very sim-like, so maybe FF should be tweaked by our devs. And yes, I'd like the G25 FF motors to have less strenght to gain some speed.
oh, and the wheel is set to 900° in logitech profiler but only 720° in LFS, so I can use the whole 900 even if the cars should have only 720...
Most people will advise you to turn off centering spring. It's a canned effect that the Logitech drivers put in, which is not needed or generated by LFS.
I hope the devs don't change anything. LFS is one of the only sims in which the force feedback doesn't totally suck.
It doesn't really work that way. Once you hit 720* you're already at the maximum. Turning your wheel further doesn't do anything because the steering of the car is already locked.
Here are the settings I use. Maybe give them a shot and see if it feels better to you:
Logitech profiler set to 720*. Forces at 100%. Centering spring off. Damper effect off. Combined pedals off.
In LFS: 720*, wheel turn compensation = 0, force strength = ~60%, Shifter. If you drive the wide tired cars a lot, you'll probably want less force strength. If you drive the skinny road tired cars a lot, you'll want it relatively high.
Err... I just spent 15 minutes trying to explain why I think it's needed, where have you been?
I think I explained why I'm not entirely satisfied with it...
It actually does... I reckon it basically works like this: [WARNING: NERD STUFF NEXT:sadbanana ] if you set the profiler to 720° (for example) then the game associates -360° to -1 and 360° to +1, with all the values in the middle. Now, if you set wheel turn compensation to 0 the game takes the full turn ratio of the car and sets the maximum to +1 and the minimum to -1. This means that with cars that only have a 540° lock (GTRs) you are actually turning the wheel too much (still 720°). On the other hand if you set wheel turn compensation to 1 (like I have) the game looks at what you set for in-game wheel turn, then adjusts values so for example with 720° if you tell the game you have 720° and you have a car with 540° then the wheels of the car will stop turning if you turn the steering wheel more than 540°. When I drift I have 900° in profiler, 720° in-game so the game thinks that -1 is -360° and +1 is +360°, just like the car should be, so it leaves it that way even if +1 is actually 450°.[:sleep2: NERD STUFF ENDS HERE :tired: :wtf2: ]
1) like I said, you are actually turning the wheel too much in 540° or 450° etc. cars
2) damper effect setting is not used in LFS (=useless)
3) try drifting with 900° and your settings, and see if you can end the slide without tearing apart the FF motors . I bet you can't
Thanks for the answer anyway, and sorry for the long post.
I was just trying to explain that MOST people turn that stuff off and think it feels better without. I thought perhaps you had something else set wrong and needed centering to compensate. IMO, if your settings are correct then you shouldn't get any "incorrect" feelings from the force feedback in the first place.
Yes, if you leave the wheel set to 900* AND you have wheel compensation set to 0, then you'll use all 900*. But why in the world would you WANT to do such a thing?
Not if the wheel is set to 720*. I can physically turn the wheel past 540* (or 450*, or whatever that particular car is using), but it doesn't matter at that point since I'm already at full lock.
That's why I said to turn it off.
Again, why in the world would anyone want to run 900* when the largest lock-to-lock used by any car in the game is 720*? It just makes no sense. What's the point?
Brilliant! Thanks Cue-Ball. Just tried this and it's improved the response a great deal. I've only tried it with the Raceabout so far, and I can't remember what its lock settings are, but it worked a treat and I can actually now catch a tail-slide (of the too-early, downshift-induced variety).
) the FF tends to countersteer too much and when the slide is about to end it doesn't let you straighten the wheel until the car is actually starting to slide the other way round. I think that other games deal with this oversteer stuff much better.
