How well are these tires meant to hold up on the XF i no its a high powered FWD car so thsoe tires are going to heat up real fast, but is it just me or am i doing somthing incorrect as i just cant get the things to hold up in a sprint race without hitting 110 degrees +

I did think maybe r2's on the front are just not teh way to go so i tried r3's didnt last much better and i still couldnt complete 3 full laps on the things without red areas apperaing, thou when im asking people in the servers what tires there using they all say r2's and theres seems to last a full 3-5 laps putting in very good times.


Is it just me ? casue i love this little car but for seems reason the tires hate me

in my experiences with the ufr and xfr i have found that they do in general eat tyres. if you want them to last you just have to drive more conservatively (sp?)

there are other ways but that's what i do

I´m unexperienced, but i hope this will help..

-try not to spin the tires when speeding out of a corner
-use as little steering angle as possible
-dont use too small tire pressure
-softer suspension? i´m not sure about that..
-dont lock your front tires while braking

Thats what i do to keep my tires cool


e: you might find more information in my signature

If the tyres overheat then you're not driving smooth enough. The main problem is very likely that you steer too much, causing far higher tyre stress than necessary. Some tracks do really need R3 at the front if you want to get in more than five laps, like for example Fern Bay Black or Gold, but on most popular tracks for the usual lap counts of no bigger than 10 you should be able to cope with R2s.

Heres 2 replays of me driving if they help.

I'm no hotlapping expert, but this is my impression:

• Too much camber on too soft tyres.
  
• You regularly overshoot the T3 hairpin, causing LOTS of heat (surface temp was up to 140°C there). Also not getting the fast lefthander on the back straight right by turning in too late or coming in too hot does contribute.
  
• Generally too much tyre scrub, but mostly only on the slower corners/hairpins. Very often the source of this problem is the locked diff, where you actually have to apply very little amounts of throttle on turn-in to help preventing the awful understeer.
  
• Maybe your setup is not oversteery enough in general? By making it oversteer more you can offload some work to the rear tyres, which barely get used anyway.
  
• From trying your set, for my tastes FAR too much front brake bias. You let your front tyres do most of the stopping work, thus putting energy in them that could've been absorbed by the rear tyres instead.
  
  I'd suggest to put the brake bias rearwards until the car starts to feel slightly unstable under braking without downshifting. When testing this make sure to not drive in a perfectly straight line, as these perfect conditions will rarely be the case on the track.
  
  Once you've done that, on fast/normal corners with no understeer problem shift down relatively quickly during braking, which puts the effective brake bias more forward helping to keep the car stable. On hairpins with understeer problem shift down considerably slower (or only the first two gears fast, then slow) to use the instability as an aid for turning in. That way you can basically "modify" the brake bias on the fly as you see fit.
  

Edit:
Wanted to add, I only looked at the "hot tires.spr" replay on Aston. In general for a race the temperatures would've been quite okay, with the inner overheating a bit after a few laps and the outer parts being on optimum temperature. In a longer race this is ideal, because the tyres will start cooling down when they wear, so while your performance is not 100% at first, it will pay off later by having nicely tempered tyres afterwards.

As I gather from bbman's post down there, the other replay is on Westhill, which is known as a tyre eater. I don't think there's much you can do on that track, other than pumping up the tyres ridiculously high or using R3 compound.

Only looked at the 2 replay... Actually, it wasn't that bad, as those long sweeping high-speed turns of Westhill are very hard on the tires... I assume you used a hotlap-setup (from the setupfield?) with a locked diff? What I noticed was you were turning in too late, therefore applying too much lock and tried to compensate with the throttle oversteer of the locked diff...

Turn in sooner, but smoother and get on the throttle a bit smoother and you shouldn't have that problem anymore...

Yer im using some of those sets also use the BSP set and Bobs alot of the time.

Just tried doing some KY N and again after 2 laps the inside of the tires are red raw its doing me nut in as i just cant keep grip with the tires they cook to easly for me sometimes within one lap the inside of the tires is red and sometimes the outside is still blue at this time.

I no high powered FWD need to be driven cautious, but if i brake any easier and accelerate any later, theres no way im going to be any were near a decent lap time.

Quote from Spils :

Yer im using some of those sets also use the BSP set and Bobs alot of the time.

Just tried doing some KY N and again after 2 laps the inside of the tires are red raw its doing me nut in as i just cant keep grip with the tires they cook to easly for me sometimes within one lap the inside of the tires is red and sometimes the outside is still blue at this time.

I no high powered FWD need to be driven cautious, but if i brake any easier and accelerate any later, theres no way im going to be any were near a decent lap time.

Try less camber. But AndroidXP said that already...

Quote from Spils :

Yer im using some of those sets also use the BSP set and Bobs alot of the time.

Just tried doing some KY N and again after 2 laps the inside of the tires are red raw its doing me nut in as i just cant keep grip with the tires they cook to easly for me sometimes within one lap the inside of the tires is red and sometimes the outside is still blue at this time.

I no high powered FWD need to be driven cautious, but if i brake any easier and accelerate any later, theres no way im going to be any were near a decent lap time.

The trick IS to use less power, the reason being, if you are 100% throttle your wheels spin and you slide alot more in the corners, whilst if you are only 80-90% on the gas you slide less and your tyres have more grip, get less hot so they grip not slide etc etc

Last year we did a UXRL season UFR's verses XFR's

In the Westhill race most of the XFR's were cooking thier tyres in a few laps... why - because they were 100% throttling all the time..

In the UFR's (but same is true in XFR's) we use 80-90% throttle in the corners, this way our tyres would not over heat, also if they hdid they were able to cool on the straights..

If we went full throttle thruogh the first section of the lap (which is possible) our right front tyre would be fried after 1 lap only.

Also we ran R2's for the race, the competition ran R3's again with a harder tyre you will slide more, which in turns causes more heat etc, which then makes you lose grip, which then makes you slide etc etc.

The cautious way IS the quicker, it maybe a split second per lap slower, but then when your competition's tyres go off after 6-7 laps you are then 2-3 seconds per lap quicker

I hope this helps

Dru.