Hey, folks

After playing the LFS S2 demo, I had to buy an S2 license (last week) -- and after playing with a Microsoft Sidewinder 2 Pro, I knew I needed a decent wheel, so I bought a Logitech Driving Force Pro. It came yesterday, and I've been having some in-game trouble counter-steering since.

Right now, counter-steering doesn't even seem possible; to say the least, it's very frustrating. If my car begins to oversteer, I can try to counter-steer, but it's just not worth it because it's too hard to fight the force feedback -- and even if I could fight it, it's likely that I wouldn't be able to do it fast enough. However, I know it's possible because I talked to someone last night who was drifting with 150% force feedback in-game and 720 degrees of steering lock. Any insight that anyone could give would be much appreciated, and I've included my setup below:

Logitech Profiler (S2 specific):

• Use special force feedback settings: Checked
  
• Overall effects strength: 100%
  
• Spring effect strength: 0%
  
• Damper effect strength: 0%
  
• Enable centering spring: Not checked

• Use special steering wheel settings: Checked
  
• Report combined pedals: Not checked
  
• Degrees of rotation: 720

Live for Speed:

• Wheel turn: 720 degrees
  
• Wheel turn compensation: 1.00
  
• Force Strength: 80%

Also, should I be able to hear the wheel's motor when I turn even if force feedback is off? And if it is off, should the wheel spin like a sailboat, or there be resistance? Even if I turn force feedback off, compared to an automobile, I can't turn the wheel very fast.

Thanks for reading!

I think on the Momo Racing I have Centering Sprint checked, but on xero %. The wheels almost automatically countersteers just like a real car. If the DFP drivers have this option, try it. And personally I'd tone down the overall or LFS strength, but thats my weedy arms for you.

As for resistance, you are only turning the motor off, not disconnected it from the column, so there should still be resistance. But it shouldn't be much... I can make mine turn from lock to lock with a good enough swing if I wanted to.

Quote from tristancliffe :

I think on the Momo Racing I have Centering Sprint checked, but on xero %. The wheels almost automatically countersteers just like a real car. If the DFP drivers have this option, try it. And personally I'd tone down the overall or LFS strength, but thats my weedy arms for you.

The drivers do have that option, and I have tried it both ways; it makes no difference. As for the force feedback, I brought it down from 100% to 73%. The only change I have noticed is that I can't feel the car as well; there are no changes in the way of oversteer characteristics.

Quote from tristancliffe :

As for resistance, you are only turning the motor off, not disconnected it from the column, so there should still be resistance. But it shouldn't be much... I can make mine turn from lock to lock with a good enough swing if I wanted to.

Yeah, that makes perfect sense; that's exactly what I figured.

To expand on my problem some more, I guess it's not really the counter-steering that's giving me a problem; the real trouble is countering that: turning back to correct. When I try to do so, I barely can -- and by then, it's, obviously, too late. From what I can tell, I'm having exactly the same problem as Hallen as described in his post below:

http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=45445#post45445

i use pretty much exactly the same settings (except i also use the 0% center spring but that doesnt seem to make much of a difference and i also use 97% overall strength as i belive 80 ingame and 97% is the best tradeoff between straight line oscillations and ff strength

anyway the point is that our settings are almost identical

Quote from Dabom :

Also, should I be able to hear the wheel's motor when I turn even if force feedback is off? And if it is off, should the wheel spin like a sailboat, or there be resistance? Even if I turn force feedback off, compared to an automobile, I can't turn the wheel very fast.

if you disconnect the power supply the wheel should be somewhat hard to turn and you shouldnt be able to turn it very fast (i believe its because the current the ff motor generates is sent right back trough it instead of into the electronics)
if you connect the power supply and the usb cord it should however become significantly easier to turn (at least as soon as the rather strong center spring it has right after connecting it to the pc is disabled) not as easy as if the wheel had no ff at all as you still have to turn the gears and the armature (im pretty sure ff motors are permanently excitated)

now the countersteering problem ... the inital countersteer should be pretty easy to do as the wheel will help you countersteer
turning the wheels straight again is a different story though since it has to happen before the car is straight (at least thats what i figured from watching real world and ingame drifting videos)
so yes i think the ff should be strong and you should have to fight the dfp to get the wheels back straight on time
a good way to learn how to do this is by turning down the ingame ff setting to about 40 and turn it back up to 80 once you know how and when to countersteer

I drift 720 degrees 100% FF in drivers and 200% in game. It's actually quite easy, you just gotta get the hang of it.

PRACTICEPRACTICEPRACTICE

same here lol.

like apex said just practice.

Quote from xapexcivicx :

I drift 720 degrees 100% FF in drivers and 200% in game. It's actually quite easy, you just gotta get the hang of it.

PRACTICEPRACTICEPRACTICE

You better have BIG biceps. :O

Quote from deggis :

You better have BIG biceps. :O

Which is good to impress the ladies :icon23:

I have set force in game to 5-20% depending from car and in profiler to 35% If there is more force then wheel comes unrealisticly sticky. Of course countersteering is much harder with this 720 degree wheel turning, for rallying I use 280 degrees only.

With real car there is sure more power at cornering, but real car's wheel is not to prone to broke when you apply some serious power to it, these game controllers can't handle such powers and also if there would be proper force on corners it would be silly on straights.

Microsoft wheel is better in this aspect, it won't go very sticky and you can have more FF strenght.

Also wheel turn compensation I do set to 0 as there is no need to slow wheel down in middle range when you have 720 degrees in use.