can anybody help me????? how can i unlock the cars in lfs s2??????????PLSPLSPLSPLS tell me!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Buy the game. Now go away from this thread 
This is how to unlock the cars Click here for instructions
Or you can take part in Win S2 Demo cup and win S2 for free.All info : http://www.lfsforum.net/forumdisplay.php?f=219
Dont think a guy could manage to even race if hes beging to help him unlock S2 cars 
Umm just wanted you guys to help me a bit with XFG in Blackwood.
Im practicing for the race tommorow and my driving is a little unstable
i know it comes from practice and WR replays dont help me actually its all about me and my driving i just can watch where they brake but thats the matter of the serup itself. I want you guys to watch a couple of laps from the 27 lap race im practicing on with High Wind conditions and tell me what should i improve, where and how to handle the car better and so on... you understand me. Heres the replay... thank you in advance, you would really help me to improve
Im practicing for the race tommorow and my driving is a little unstable
i know it comes from practice and WR replays dont help me actually its all about me and my driving i just can watch where they brake but thats the matter of the serup itself. I want you guys to watch a couple of laps from the 27 lap race im practicing on with High Wind conditions and tell me what should i improve, where and how to handle the car better and so on... you understand me. Heres the replay... thank you in advance, you would really help me to improve
If your not watching then you could maybe tell me how can i brake in time without locking the tyres when braking? I just dont know how to do that... my tyres just slide everytime.
What you are talking about is threshold braking and you are either trying to slow down too fast and/or too late. What you want to do is threshold brake right up to the turn in point then trail brake into the corner.
I suggest you find the turn in point first so you know where threshold braking ends, so if you pass it you will know you are sliding or you can watch your replays to see if you are in a skid. Me, I'm lazy I'd rather do another lap and see if i can hit the point bang on than watch my crapy replay.
If you are going from 100% braking to 0% or even 50% you are going to slide because you are upsetting the car by pushing all that grip you have in the front tires to a lot less. Your transition from braking has to be smooth.
I suggest you find the turn in point first so you know where threshold braking ends, so if you pass it you will know you are sliding or you can watch your replays to see if you are in a skid. Me, I'm lazy I'd rather do another lap and see if i can hit the point bang on than watch my crapy replay.
If you are going from 100% braking to 0% or even 50% you are going to slide because you are upsetting the car by pushing all that grip you have in the front tires to a lot less. Your transition from braking has to be smooth.
Wel if you could do a replay of what you just said it would be great 
FWD and the right braking-technique...
Hi again,
what OmniMoAK told you is more or less the basics of all driving:
The correct braking technique:
threshhold -> applying full brake-force until turn-in.
trailbrake -> losening the brake in a smooth way from 100% to 0 while at all times applying as much braking-power as the wheels can take without locking when turning into and throughout a corner.
Trailbrake is usually used from turn-in up to hitting the apex of a corner. The lack in feel in your braking foot is compensated by
a) your force-feedback wheel making you eperience a lightened steering-force when oversteering/overbraking
b) your ingame-sound telling you one or more tyres are skidding at the edge of traction
a) usually won't come in a sudden burst and can be felt before b) gets serious. It is a fine line but with practice you will develop a feel for that.
Keep in mind that the XFG is front-wheel-drive. This means the front-tyres' grip is needed for both: acceleration/braking AND steering. You can only steer as effectively as the difference in
[ maximum traction _minus_ brake-force ] leaves you to do this. If your steering angle is spot-on but you understeer then release the brake a little more.
When brake-balance is set to less than 70%-ish at Front then the brake might help a little at turn-in under braking but on the other hand will make the car suffer oversteer when over-braking and the minimum stopping-distance in a straight line is prolonged to some (minor) degree. This is the first thing to learn when adjusting one's set-up. Try different settings for the brake-balance -> although anything out of the 60%...75% - front-based range will probably not be wise on tarmac racing
Some people mount skiddier intermediate-tyres on the rear axle to allow for less understeer on windy tracks. I wouldn't recommend that for anything other than hotlapping on blackwood. Stability will suffer since those tyres will heat up a lot faster than the standard-road-tyres after a few laps!
Keep on going fast and smooth
DrBen
what OmniMoAK told you is more or less the basics of all driving:
The correct braking technique:
threshhold -> applying full brake-force until turn-in.
trailbrake -> losening the brake in a smooth way from 100% to 0 while at all times applying as much braking-power as the wheels can take without locking when turning into and throughout a corner.
Trailbrake is usually used from turn-in up to hitting the apex of a corner. The lack in feel in your braking foot is compensated by
a) your force-feedback wheel making you eperience a lightened steering-force when oversteering/overbraking
b) your ingame-sound telling you one or more tyres are skidding at the edge of traction
a) usually won't come in a sudden burst and can be felt before b) gets serious. It is a fine line but with practice you will develop a feel for that.
Keep in mind that the XFG is front-wheel-drive. This means the front-tyres' grip is needed for both: acceleration/braking AND steering. You can only steer as effectively as the difference in
[ maximum traction _minus_ brake-force ] leaves you to do this. If your steering angle is spot-on but you understeer then release the brake a little more.
When brake-balance is set to less than 70%-ish at Front then the brake might help a little at turn-in under braking but on the other hand will make the car suffer oversteer when over-braking and the minimum stopping-distance in a straight line is prolonged to some (minor) degree. This is the first thing to learn when adjusting one's set-up. Try different settings for the brake-balance -> although anything out of the 60%...75% - front-based range will probably not be wise on tarmac racing
Some people mount skiddier intermediate-tyres on the rear axle to allow for less understeer on windy tracks. I wouldn't recommend that for anything other than hotlapping on blackwood. Stability will suffer since those tyres will heat up a lot faster than the standard-road-tyres after a few laps!
Keep on going fast and smooth
DrBen
Learned this at Skip Barber racing school
Lets leave out aerodynamics and angle of the road
Tires have a max grip of 100%
So straight line accel takes about 80% of it leaving 20% for braking/cornering, if you slam on the brakes even though your foot leaves the throttle you are still accelerating not 80% but up there. So slamming on the brakes take ~60% of the tires grip, so the tire is now being asked for ~110% of grip. Guess what YOU CANT GET THAT EXTRA 10%, asking for that 10% causes wheel lockup or skid
The same holds true for cornering
Best and easiest way to find out trail braking/threshold braking is at the end of the long straight of Blackwood GP with XFG/XRG
Drive up to the 100m marker in top gear/top speed and then hard brake (do not jab on the brakes, squeeze it down)
If you are going straight off the tracks and cant make the hairpin you locked up, either your broke too late or you jabbed the brakes and you better work on your transition.
Lets leave out aerodynamics and angle of the road
Tires have a max grip of 100%
So straight line accel takes about 80% of it leaving 20% for braking/cornering, if you slam on the brakes even though your foot leaves the throttle you are still accelerating not 80% but up there. So slamming on the brakes take ~60% of the tires grip, so the tire is now being asked for ~110% of grip. Guess what YOU CANT GET THAT EXTRA 10%, asking for that 10% causes wheel lockup or skid
The same holds true for cornering
Best and easiest way to find out trail braking/threshold braking is at the end of the long straight of Blackwood GP with XFG/XRG
Drive up to the 100m marker in top gear/top speed and then hard brake (do not jab on the brakes, squeeze it down)
If you are going straight off the tracks and cant make the hairpin you locked up, either your broke too late or you jabbed the brakes and you better work on your transition.
getting better
(61 posts, started )
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG