When braking with (not full pulled) handbrake, once you stop your handbrake power will be at 100% all time, until you start to accelerate. If I'm using axis handbrake I want it to behave exactly same as in real car : )
I realise potential problems of that like when restarting race/qualify and starting grid is sloped (google translator?? Uphill and downhill) but this could be solved by applying 100% handbrake at race/qual restart (like now), but if you move your handbrake axis, then to behave by instructions from axis.
I've attached demonstration replay

Hey, I had this problem aswell.

FIX: LFS>OPTIONS>CONTROLS AXIS- Pull the e-brake ALL the way back, While holding it on, Click The "C" (centre) button on the axis you use for E-Brake.

Should be done

The ebrake applying itself when you stop..Thats a lil funny

If i understand properly heheh.

My handbrake is propertly configured (calibrated), I can do from 0 to 100% braking power.
But I'm talking about handbrake applying itself when you stop, and then even if you lower you handbrake (0% braking power) in LFS handbrake remain fully pulled until you start accelerating

Why would you want your handbrake to be on an axis anyway fella?
Surely when you use the handbrake you either want it on or off?
Ive never come across a moment (in sims or RL, drifing or racing) when i needed the handbrake on 'halfway'?
I have my cockpits real handbrake wired to a button, so as soon as i pull it more than an inch or two its fully on...

Just wondering why you decided to put it on an axis instead of a switch matee?

EDIT:
Aha, maybe you are forced to because you are using a joystick as an handbrake, seems i may have answered my own ponderings... D'oh

Quote from B1gch0pper :

Why would you want your handbrake to be on an axis anyway fella?
Surely when you use the handbrake you either want it on or off?
Ive never come across a moment (in sims or RL, drifing or racing) when i needed the handbrake on 'halfway'?
I have my cockpits real handbrake wired to a button, so as soon as i pull it more than an inch or two its fully on...

Just wondering why you decided to put it on an axis instead of a switch matee?

EDIT:
Aha, maybe you are forced to because you are using a joystick as an handbrake, seems i may have answered my own ponderings... D'oh

Using axis because in real car your handbrake is also axis

Real handbrake moving gamepad axis (not pressing button)

Yeah i guess thats fair enough buddy, I can see your point, but as mentioned I umm'd and ahh'd about whether to go for an axis on my handbrake or a on/off switch. I decided in the end there was absolutely no point atall in wiring in an analogue switch as i would either want it on (full) or off, didnt see the point at all in having it variable...
Surely the point of a handbrake is to lock the rear wheels, in which case the variable tension is not needed, all it makes you do is pull the lever further to atually get the wheels to lock, so the first 80-90% of your pull is doing nothing but slowing you down slightly (which you have a foot brake for).
Do you ever use it 'half on' or 'half off'? Or just yank it up full when you need it?

well, mostly use handbrake for tyre heating (slides)

point of thread is that if I stop on downhill, pull handbrake, go to do something, and then lower my handbrake to start, but then my car doesnt start (like in real life), then im crying for like 30 seconds, then wipe tears, put to first gear, starting releasing clutch (and I have to burn a bit of clutch, in real life I would just rev match) especialy annoying when using hotlap setups (long first gear)