I just recently changed my old MOMO Racing for a brand new out of the box MOMO Force (Red). Now all of a sudden I get wired wheel behavior in LFS. Like the wheel from the inside the car yerks left and right very fast. Not on all positions but its common.

Now I set the game in window mode and started DXtweak to monitor the RAW values and infact it jumps up to 20 points.

When I stop the car and just accelerate in neutral it starts to yerk 98% of all the time in any position.
Now I tested all this in windows to and there are absolute no noticeable problems whatsoever. All is stable even when I push the gas or brake. The X axis doesn't yerk around like in LFS.
FF is also not connected to power supply so this can cause vibrations. I also use headphones so nothing can really cause vibration to the table.

Any idea what this could be?

LFs is still set how it was for the MOMO Racing also. 270 turning..
I also believe the MOMO racing turns less then the momo force right?

also let me add. Tested with Windows, rFactor and Nascar 2003. No problems here.

Just noticed another thing. When the X axis yerks the accelerator does to at the same time. from 255 to 252 RAW data. Both at the same time.

Sounds like calibrating under LFS is not quite right. You sure have tried to re-calibrate LFS with new wheel? Steering radius same 270 degrees for both wheels.

EDIT:Oh yeah... Have you tried with out force feedback?
My MOMO racing does that pretty much every time I restart Windows. For me it helps to unplug the wheel from computer. But that can be seen in control panel too, so probably not the problem in your case.

Yeah I re calibrated now pedals seems to be ok again but the steering is still same bad pretty much. I even restored windows now, changed USB and still get this in LFS. Only that this time only the wheel is bad but isnt dependent from the accelerator when pushed anymore. Also when moving the wheel in wodnwos an dDXtweak running. You can see its not moving for 1 but for up to 4 RAW values. MOMO Racing moved for 1.
And yeah no FF. I dont even use FF.

Connect the Wheel
Open LFS
Move the wheel from LEFT to RIGHT and RIGHT to LEFT, from lock to lock.
Press all the pedals down fully.

Does this solve the problem?

nope. I start to think this are bad pots?

If its bad pots you will notice it in other games.

The steering axis in both wheels is done via an optical sensor and not a pot but can still mess about especially if theres some fluff attached to it.

Inside both wheels theres a circuit board and with age sometimes you can get a dry joint (solder blob) or 3 and this can cause probs similar to what you have .

Also logitech use very thin cores inside the round cables these can break inside and playup when the cable is moved. The plug at the back of the wheel where the pedals plug in can become defective especially on
the momo force (red).

I am pretty sure both momos have the same lock to lock (270deg)
however when you say you restored windows did you do a fresh install after formatting your HD?

Have you installed the centering patch from http://www.wingmanteam.com/fil ... x/MOMORacingFixCenter.zip even tho its quoted as being for the momo racing it could just solve all your probs

Hope some of this helps locate your prob.

SD.

MOMO Force has no optical sensors but normal pots.

Quote from SparkyDave :

If its bad pots you will notice it in other games.

games like need for speed or something though will tolerate a lot more random twitching of the wheel and you may not notice...

To get your Red MOMO working correctly you do the following:
(this is what I would do for a fresh install)

1. Get the latest drivers from Logitech's site
   
2. Install correctly and load up the Windows control panel options for the controller
   
3. Uncheck Combined Pedals option
   
4. Set Overall FF level to 100% or 50% (never go above 100%, 50% is recommended)
   
5. Spring and Damper Effects should all be set at 0%
   
6. CHECK the Centering Spring option, but put the Centering Spring strength at 0% (IMPORTANT)
   
7. Load up the game, properly calibrate it in the game, but then goto the main page of the Controls section, and fool around with these two options (Wheel Turn Degrees, and Steering Compensation). They are right next to each other in the menu. Basically, first start at the lowest wheel turn degrees (180), and turn Wheel compensation all the way up (1.00). Doing this will give a very stable center.... provided that your FF levels in LFS are nowhere above 100% (keep it at 50% aswell). If you want more responsive steering, you could always raise the Wheel Turn degrees, but then it will be kind of wierd. So then you could do the opposite. Put Wheel compensation at 0 for DIRECT control, but raise the wheel turn level all the way up, and then gradually tune it down until you find a setting you like.
   
8. Until you find the right combination of those two options from the last step, you will find the steering to not jerk so much.

This is a common problem with the Red MOMO for some reason, but it is easy to fix with some testing

So far I got 4.60 driver what is classified as last and will try all what you described. I just plugged out the momo Racing and in goes the momo Force. They use same 4.60 drivers and are recognized.
About installing well I dont think there is much to it actually. Just put it in it auto detects then turn and press everything and thats to it.

Now I will go play with what you just described.

I only know when turning the MOMO Racing and watching DXtweak. It moves by 1. But the momo Force does by 4 points most of the time.

Yeah seems to work better now. But hack I had it working like that the first time until it started again. Anyway I think if the pot would jump for 4-5 steps when turning and be so good as the optical from momo racing. This wouldnt even be a problem.

Ok under misc in option there is a setting which greatly reduces this effect. It can only be set to 0.9 but is already helping alot visually. Wheel movement is smothered out alot but its still visible alittle but nevertheless its a great option.