Why do you need or want a faster car? You should have more than enough power there to have some fun and cruise quite competently down the motorway. A faster car will only get you into trouble and cost more to own and insure. A faster car will not provide greater entertainment on the road, most likely the total opposite and more powerful front wheel drive cars are going to provide little driving enjoyment even when you can let them loose.
If the Hyundai is boring then I would suggest you either aren't driving it properly or its fat and bloated and dynamically incompetent, probably a mixture of both which doesn't require more power.
I drive a Lada Riva, the reasons why you don't want one are well documented and too numerous to go into, but mostly based on misconceptions. It has got a few things going for it though, it is full of character and is certainly not a common site and it appeals to your sense of humour you can get a lot of car for the money. It cost me £350 for a mechanically sound, tidy car with only one spot of surface rust and only the odd easily rectifiable fault. Insurance was £450 third party with no NCB and 2 years of driving experience, tax is £120 a year (may be worth getting a pre-2001 car for tax brackets). Simple to work on, spare parts are cheap, very tough and it glides over rough roads without a fuss. Apart from being cheap, practical and reliable it also isn't as dynamically incompetent as it first appears with the correct wheels driven, five link rear suspension and a lovely gear change with no faffing about with long linkages it is a great hoot to drive it quickly and has lots of potential to become stupidly quick for what it is with well documented inexpensive modifications.
I'm not suggesting it's the right car for you but think about what you actually want and need from a car. Think about the practicalities of running it, it is easy to assume fuel bills and insurance are the major costs but they aren't necessarily, you've got to consider purchase/resale price, the likely running and servicing costs, will you do the work yourself? Also if you buy a pretty average recent car you could inadvertantely end up paying a fortune in tax. Think outside the box and whatever you do don't just aimlessly go for cars popular with young drivers, the more that drive and crash them the higher the insurance will be.
If the Hyundai is boring then I would suggest you either aren't driving it properly or its fat and bloated and dynamically incompetent, probably a mixture of both which doesn't require more power.
I drive a Lada Riva, the reasons why you don't want one are well documented and too numerous to go into, but mostly based on misconceptions. It has got a few things going for it though, it is full of character and is certainly not a common site and it appeals to your sense of humour you can get a lot of car for the money. It cost me £350 for a mechanically sound, tidy car with only one spot of surface rust and only the odd easily rectifiable fault. Insurance was £450 third party with no NCB and 2 years of driving experience, tax is £120 a year (may be worth getting a pre-2001 car for tax brackets). Simple to work on, spare parts are cheap, very tough and it glides over rough roads without a fuss. Apart from being cheap, practical and reliable it also isn't as dynamically incompetent as it first appears with the correct wheels driven, five link rear suspension and a lovely gear change with no faffing about with long linkages it is a great hoot to drive it quickly and has lots of potential to become stupidly quick for what it is with well documented inexpensive modifications.
I'm not suggesting it's the right car for you but think about what you actually want and need from a car. Think about the practicalities of running it, it is easy to assume fuel bills and insurance are the major costs but they aren't necessarily, you've got to consider purchase/resale price, the likely running and servicing costs, will you do the work yourself? Also if you buy a pretty average recent car you could inadvertantely end up paying a fortune in tax. Think outside the box and whatever you do don't just aimlessly go for cars popular with young drivers, the more that drive and crash them the higher the insurance will be.
Downloading it now.
Is there a way I could have hidden it so it wouldn't come up in the updates search? Really strange because I had the identical issue trying to get XP SP2 on my old PC and had to download the standalone to find it, may be something I'm doing?
How do I get Vista SP1?
I can't work out how I update my Vista (a legal OEM copy of Home Premium) to Service Pack 1. I'm trying to update it because GTA4 is refusing to play without it.
I have downloaded all the important and recommended updates from the Windows Update thing (I think there were 53). All the updates I have left are clearly nothing to do with SP1 (Silverlight/Office/Media Centre/Windows Mail updates). What do I need to do to get it?
EDIT - The Office SP1 has nothing to do with the Vista Service Pack does it? My version is 6.0.6000 Build 6000
I have downloaded all the important and recommended updates from the Windows Update thing (I think there were 53). All the updates I have left are clearly nothing to do with SP1 (Silverlight/Office/Media Centre/Windows Mail updates). What do I need to do to get it?
EDIT - The Office SP1 has nothing to do with the Vista Service Pack does it? My version is 6.0.6000 Build 6000
Last edited by ajp71, .
How pathetic would that be? The pinnacle of motorsport engineering (supposedly) being banned from designing the mirrors. Just how many components on the car can the teams actually change? F1 is just dissolving further into becoming a single make series.
If you don't want to get a proper repair kit then you have a couple of options. Firstly check the bolt isn't damaged, this is very unlikely if you have used a bolt that is either the same age or newer than the rest of the bracket. If you're using badly stored very old stock, which is never a good idea and only really likely to be an issue with unusual hard to find sizes with classics, it is possible that the bolt thread has crumbled away without damaging the internal thread on the bracket (very unlikely but always worth checking first).
The next very gash solution is to simply run the correct tap down the thread and see if it can cut through the cross threaded bit, your only likely to get away with this if you stopped quickly and didn't force the bolt right down to the bottom of the thread, if the bolt head can touch where it needs to when tight then forget about this (also note you will probably have stripped it by overtightening if this is the case).
If all of this fails and for whatever reason you don't want a repair kit then drilling the internal thread out and putting a nut on the end of the bolt is possible, but is a horrible solution and should never be done. The mechanically better way of doing this would be to tack the nut on so that it is captive on the bracket, but if you're going to spend a few minutes welding it then it would be a lot easier to use a proper thread repair kit.
Rivnuts are the most horrible gash solution. If they're used to replace a hole like this then they will be a lot weaker and a lot less elegant a solution than repairing it properly. When they're used to try and prevent the need for fitting a captive nut to bolt something through thin metal they rip up what they are being put through and are liable to pull through when you don't want them to because of their inability to spread pressure and when you take them off they are guaranteed to turn, not too bad unless the muppet in question has decided to use a rivnut into a double skinned component :doh:
Ditching an aircraft this size or greater into water is not a commonly chosen option, normally an emergency landing made at an airfield, even if not onto a runway or paved area is the most desirable option because it gives a large, flat and relatively obstacle free area with immediate specialised emergency response (as was originally chosen in this case). Landing on water is no different to trying to belly land an aircraft on ground, maintain speed, choose the safest direction in which to point the plane (in this case the other airfield), keep the descent speed much higher than standard, you have no power to correct and a stall in this situation will be fatal. Then the critical things, firstly you have to quickly accept the spot the plane is going to land on, whatever is in your path when you land will be softer than a stall. Secondly the wings must be level, if they're not the wings will drag on whatever you land on, which in water will result in a roll if not destruction of the fuselage. The actual landing is going to be identical to any other in a conventional plane, just get the hold off to last as long as possible for the gentlest touch down, in water the actual speed entering it will be much less important than keeping nose up, wings level and a gentle descent.
Quite how would you suggest training water ditches any differently than is currently done? The drills and approach will be identical to engine failures over ground (which a huge amount of training time is spent on). The actual landing is pretty academic, anybody who has managed to get a pilots license will be more than technically capable of doing the landing, in many ways using a wide straight river is much less technical than a standard landing, it is really a matter of staying cool not panicking and doing exactly the same as they have done time and time again just without an instructor by their side telling them it is time to pull out of the approach.
Chickens are normally the standard weapon for testing jet engines at a set speed and most have no issue with them (although there is a story that the USAF once found that they could destroy any engine with there chickens, which they hadn't thought about thawing first!). A goose is much bigger and ultimately if an aircraft hits a flock of birds it is probably going to get more than one sucked through each engine, a completely different ask altogether and no jet engine will survive a bad bird strike. Normally a bird strike will only mean total engine failure at worst, which is far from ideal but normally can brought down in a controlled ditch only resulting in walking wounded and written off plane, so long as the pilot quickly finds the best direction to try and land in and gains and maintains enough speed, as has been dramatically shown in incidents like this and the BA flight at Heathrow.
There are two reasons why this would be a very bad idea, firstly any kind of mesh in front of an engine is going to go into it when it gets broken off and it will because the forces involved are enormous, a big bird (and a goose is very big) will make a bid for freedom through whatever comes its way a bit of 3mm steel plate with big holes in it unsupported would easily be cracked or worse bent back into the engine. Lots of extra metal flying everywhere isn't advisable and is far more likely to penetrate the cabin or aircraft structure than the remains of a bird.
The second reason is it would be pointless, a bird hitting a solid object at that speed will be ripped into pieces and barely slowed by some mesh.
I personally feel that almost all music whether played in pubs, clubs or concerts is unnecessarily loud, and can't see any harm in it being reduced to safer levels with no real noticeable difference. I don't like the notion that the government has to take the duty to enforce this though. I don't think the same can be applied to other forms of entertainment such as motorsport or non-electronic music though, they don't have a simple volume control after all.
The chicane is horrible, not really a good passing spot unless someone really balls it up. Aside from the fact it is a pretty horrible end to the lap it is also very dangerous, plenty of big accidents have happened both on the entry and worse on the exit into the pit wall, although it seems fairly slow by the time fast cars loose it on the exit they are normally traveling very fast and have little they can do but make very hard contact with a concrete wall on either side of the track and often get thrown back into traffic. For the number of red flags, write offs and serious injuries the chicane causes it really should go if it is feasible to do something to get rid of it in its current form.
Donnington already holds a festival which is of a similar size to a Grand Prix (if not larger), quite how it manages traffic I don't know but I'm sure it will be possible, people will just accept that it is going to be jammed like a lot of big meetings and events are, so long as the traffic is managed sensibly it will eventually get in and out on single lane roads.
They haven't messed with the good half of Donnington so I'm not going to cry about it, so long as they don't do something daft like pave the Craners. Not sure if I particuarly like the new Grand Prix track but then again the old Melbourne Loop was just a (intentional) waste of space to make the lap longer and delay further the painfully long run between Coppice and Redgate if you don't happen to have something that can disapear down the straight at warp speed.
Alan have you ever seen a SaxMax race or looked at the car preparation levels? It is nothing special, people maybe spending more but the result is bugger all benefit because the regs are sensibly written to put a cap on how much can be thrown at a car to make it faster. The driving level isn't great, a good driver should be able to come along and win in any car on the grid, to be honest SaxMax is still full of clubies sons and daughters and is not meant to be producing the stars of tomorrow.
You haven't been registered for 2 years...
It's a lightly modified Saxo running to very tight regulations. Nearly all the components are specified specifically, leaving almost no scope for modification. The rollcage is specified as an exact bolt in cage that all competitors must use, hence removing any chance of someone turning up with a proper rollcage and with the corresponding chassis modification regulations preventing anyone from getting away from the fundamental inadequacies of the road car on which its based and preventing excessive lightening (legal or otherwise) due to the dependence on the bodyshell for stiffness. There is very little that can be done to make it go much faster with a standard engine, non-structural rollcage and limited suspension bushes and top mounts. You could spend a fortune on dampers but you still wouldn't get any advantage.
Presuming there's no accident damage (optimistic) any geniuely special driver should be able to be front running for a season with a car built from scratch for £10,000, including trailer purchase/hire and a couple of test days.
Likes: Autosport Thursday
Dislikes: NEC Wednesday
Dislikes: NEC Wednesday
Not that rF is perfect I will come to its defense here, firstly replay fidelity is very low in rF so you won't see the car working like it does when you are driving, a fundamental flaw with position based FF. Secondly, and more importantly, this is a typical very bad mod with weird physics, if tyres, suspension and car inertia are set wrongly the result will be pants.
How could you possibly choose a Veyron over a proper Bugatti (and an Atalante at that!)? One is one of the greatest touring cars of all time and a genuine work of art. The other is a bulbous overpowered Volkswagen thats only party trick is that it goes quickly in a straight line, and makes you look like a total cock.
True enthusiasts appreciate vintage cars, the VSCC has a large number of significant F1 and other top flight engineers among its active members
The old one is the Mini, just like the Italian Job the new ones are a good car/film in their own right and would be far better without trying to cash in on the originals, which were both all time greats they had no hoping of matching. Without the name and a bit less of the naff retro but bloated (if you want to do retro get it neat and tidy like the Figaro and 500 both very stylishly done cars) styling you would have an attractive car (well not hideously ugly like most modern cars) with good mechanicals. There's nothing relating it to the original Mini, except that it was originally designed in the UK, then thankfully not sold as the eco-box Rover thought it should be.
I think I know what a Molex connector is, but would have no idea what it is called because there is no need to know what is what you just play fit the shape in the hole like a toddler can. I have never come across anything PC building that could potentially be plugged in the wrong way/order and actually do any harm, in the unusual cases where you can get it wrong it is always very easy to correct and non-damaging (hence why they didn't bother making them one way fit in the first place). PC hardware is designed to be installed by anybody with no training, it is only the perception of people who don't realise how simple they are (like yourself?), deliberately maintained by the companies that do 'techie' stuff that means most people don't even consider it.
What other cables are there in your computer then?
Fans and SATA/IDE? Which you should be able to fit blindfolded.
All the power connectors can only fit in one place, so there is no need to worry about where they came from. A PSU only has few different types of connector coming out of it so it should be blindingly obvious what goes where. The only slightly tricky bit can be finding out where the power/reset/led pins go as some cases have them so they aren't idiot proof and not all motherboards have the functions marked on them. Using trial and error to find the right place (and instructions!) should be fine though.
It is about the cheapest form of wheel to wheel racing available and certainly worth considering if you have to ask how much it will cost. Of course it won't get you anywhere professionally, neither will SaxMax or Ginettas unless you've already got some karting connections/sponsorship deals behind you.
You could improve that listing no end by not writing it in big blue text. Include a lot more pictures, of the car as it is now not in action, people buying a car they have no idea of the construction let alone condition of will want to see general pictures of a (clean) engine bay, the car at least from the rear and detail never hurts. If you choose to try and sell a competition car on ebay remember that the customer is unlikely to be able to look at it first (given the low price in this case) so you have to do the convincing that it really is in the condition it is in. If you're not desperate for a quick sale I would sell it to people who already know the car (usually the best way unless it is a dog or you're worried about somebody beating you with it and want it to go as far away as possible) or through conventional advertising, where people can view the car, purchase and collect it in one trip.
Done some more racing in the 1600. It should be great fun close racing but keep finding I'm taking cars out from behind. In these cases I could clearly see that my front wheel was no where near whatever they're meant to hit, they all resulted in race ending damage to at least one of the cars involved. Looking at the replay its clear that I was right. Is this lag/netcode related or is the nk collision box a lot larger than the car?
Particularly concerning is the side by side picture, there's about two feet of gap there and it was a perfectly safe move, we would definitely not have been on a collision path. In the other two (front/rear collision) the speeds were similar and the cars were not on a certain collision path (although far too close for comfort).
I think there's no hope for clean pick up racing if collisions are detected when a driver can see from the cockpit that his wheel is a perfectly safe distance away from an object.
EDIT - should say in the pics this was the closest the two cars got during the replay.
Particularly concerning is the side by side picture, there's about two feet of gap there and it was a perfectly safe move, we would definitely not have been on a collision path. In the other two (front/rear collision) the speeds were similar and the cars were not on a certain collision path (although far too close for comfort).
I think there's no hope for clean pick up racing if collisions are detected when a driver can see from the cockpit that his wheel is a perfectly safe distance away from an object.
EDIT - should say in the pics this was the closest the two cars got during the replay.
Never mind then I was hoping it would treat LAN games separately and allow the same unlocked/licensed version to connect to a LAN game on different PCs like LFS and rF allow.
I want to setup netkar on LAN but can't seem to find how to start a LAN game, is it possible to not do it through the internet (and presumably run licensed cars with one license)?
Given that high quality 4 way shocks are well into 4 figures per corner I doubt that they would be spending in excess of £5000 on shocks for what is essentially a fairly cheap road/track day car.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG