Try to download "Driver Detective". It will find the best software you need

Quote from Flysnail :

after a few months of not using it (before was fine) i have the next problem: in the first 10-15 degrees of rotation, each side, the wheel have a lack of reaction, after ~15 degrees it's ok, but i can't make smoth/small changes now very precise; tryed recalibration and nothing... don't play other games with the wheel so i can't compare
any idea of what's wrong ?

Open your wheel and you will see light red potentiometer. Of course firstly you need to remove pcb with main chip and else. Pour little bit oil into potentiometer , it will fix the problem

Quote from matijapkc :

O.K. I'll try to do something with my father... He'll know that stuff... I'll let you guys know.
But, what I was asking was this: I have 180° potentiometer (90 left, 90 right). Could I put potentiometer with 500°?

I guess you need then to put lower nominal potentiometer. Or higher. Don`t know exactly , your father will know this

Quote from matijapkc :

Derbis1990 @ I can improvise, but... I know where screws are, but that's not the problem. And if I would exchange potentiometer, can I put better one, or same as it was before?

First of all , you don`t need to remove potentiometer , you just need to pour some oil into it. If problem is still the same , that means your potentiometer is really dead. You will not find absolutely the same potentiometer as your wheel , that`s the point why i`m saying "need to improvise a bit".

By the way , you cant just change potentiometer. You need to look what nominal is written on it. In my wheel there was linear 100k potentiometer. No signs about it was written on it. I had to look with multimeter how much ohms have mine`s. I guess you will do the same if potentiometer will be "special"

You need to improvise a bit. My ffx had potentiometer problem , i decided to change it , because the inside of potentiometer was completely fuc**d up! I replaced current potentiometer , now my wheel has a HOLE looking at the bottom of my wheel , because in other way potentiometer don`t fits inside. After that i thought : "god damn , what have i done... Oh some glue will help". In this way i`m racing about 6months and no problems since then.. Later i will take a pic of inside my wheel , you will see..

I can guarantee that if you look closer you`ll see some screws inside that "plastic planet". Just look carefully , it is nonsence that you can`t open the most fragile place , in what way then repairers manage to open and repair the wheel if it get`s broken?

There is no doubt that this round was absolutely amazing with very close and clean racing. I was having so much fun , my heart was beating like i`m running from the police

And Yann , your defense was so hard , hope we will race like that in next round

Sorry Maroz for being slow (as u said Trulli style ;D) you were faster than me , i was only defending my position , i guess that was hard work for you , when you see someone`s is going to overtake you and i`m in front , leaving no choise but race "pedal to the medal"

Quote from Wilko868 :

Ill go eat Ellis for that. Thanks for pointing it out

I looked at the results again and i found something more wicked. My car number also is different in qual , sprint and feature race. In feature race i`m classified as DNF So my car number is 07

It might be annoying for you guys , but i want just to be recognized as number 07 who drives FXO

Sprint results are ok , need only to change qual table and feature race car number.
P.S now i see why i`m classified as DNF - telepiting.. I didin`t saw this at rules..

Last edited by Derbis1990, Thu, 4 Feb 2010 22:46.

Ive just looked at the TBOC 1 round results. Whole the time i was driving with FXO , but in qual results i am recognized as driver who done hotlap with XRT Sprint race information is good - i finished race with FXO. This one must be edited

Btw i finished qualification in higher position.. I think so

Sensor cannot be screwed from outside. Maybe there was some more important things , that thread starter don`t said to us. Anyway , we can only guess what`s the problem , we can guess what wheel he`s using

Quote from matijapkc :

A opet... I da skupim tu lovu, pitanje da li bi mi stari dao da ga kupim...

Blabla i love you too...

Problem is potentiometer. Pour a bit oil into it and you`ll see that everything is ok.

Potentiometer looks like that :
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wi ... g/512px-Potentiometer.jpg

It may be different in your wheel , but you will find it

It is possible to build one in your own. But you need some software and i guess sli-pro owner will not give you .hex code I guess it is based on atmega chip. Wielding that small pin`s to pcb requires experience in wielding. On the other side doing it at your own will cost you nearly the same price , especially when you don`t have special tools for it

Quote from VTiRacing :

I think that you are not exspeed.

I`m not the god either We know that race time will be 21.00 , everybody voted for it (~50% ) so changing the time to 22.00 or 20.00 would be stupid , because "it fits to me". No one does like that

You need internal and sata hdd. You can now start saving money. Good hdd will cost you ~60 Pounds. I can`t say that hdd you will buy will be greatest in whole wide world , but you`re searching for BUDGET HDD. You can buy 300-350gb hdd , but earlier or later you will feel lack of space in your pc. My opinion for you is : Samsung HD103SJ. 1TB , 32MB cache (it is important in theese days) , SATA (most fastest for the moment). Just don`t rush and you will buy good hdd. This samsung is way to good for films. Other`s will say : blablabla it`s to much gb`s for you. I can say that blue ray is released and high quality films taking much space in hdd. It`s better to buy not the cheapiest , but more expensive thing , thinking that it will serve you much longer than you expected

Well , according to the current pool results , i guess that race time will be 21.00 , 50% voted for , so there`s no need to consider anything about that

All those chips in creative products delivers max 50w , well 70w is max. If you want more power you need more A in power supply and ofcourse higher voltage

"To get a good bass"... Well i personaly dont have z or better series speakers by logitech , i have old creative 2.1 21w total and im happy. All chips in logitech requires 12v (it may be different in Z series) but its like standart. As i know , most powerfull chip is TDA1562Q. By datasheet there is TOTAL HARMONIC DISORTION ----!10%!---. So at full sound your bass will be awful

Quote :

Its just that today's 1000w = real 50w (example) ... Simple as that

Example : A linear car amplifier labeled "500 W PMPO" but fitted with a 5-amp fuse can, at most, deliver an average power of 5 A × 14.4 V × 60%, or about 43 watts. (100% efficiency is always used for PMPO)

Besides anyone looked in Z series logitech speakers? You will fastly change your mind about theese 2.1 5.1 systems Big subwoofer with logitech logo! Maybe logitech has theyre own sub speakers factory?? Inside there is 40w speaker. No , not that speaker you are thinking about

http://www.vabolis.lt/stuff/20061231b.jpg
http://www.vabolis.lt/stuff/20061231c.jpg

Looks like somebody is cheating in way to get cheap/good looking speaker system. That was logitech Z-640

Despite some crashes race was clean Cant wait till next round

Lap AND Timecode that incident occured : Race 2 , Lap 19/22 , 36:49:00
Cars Involved : 12 , 07
Brief Description of incident : I (car 07) am going side by side to T2 with car 12. Then i brake , car 12 brakes a little bit later and drives not by ideal line. Then (taking opportunity) im going to pass him by right side , but car 12 fully blocks my way and does it ON PURPOSE. Car 12 must be punished

Quote from Seb66 :

Not sure if its been posted already.
But i seem to be getting a capped 10.7fps when recording with fraps. I'm using max resolution, max everything really.. including HR textures.

To try and get around this, i've reduced the screen res, turned AA of and texture filtering. And i still only have 10fps while recording. and used the low res texture button.

My specs are:

Intel Q6600 @ 2.4ghz
GTX260 OC
800W PSU
2gb 1066mhz ram..

i seemed to be getting a better fps some time ago, but now i'm stuck on 10ish.
The lowest it's ever been before was 35, but that was a full grid of cars.
This recording i'm trying to make now is with two cars.

Any ideas?
(going to try recording on another version of lfs i have installed)

EDIT: 10fps still

Run LFS in window mode (SHIFT + F4) , that will help you

I had the same problem , 150fps Fraps off , 11fps Fraps on

used 6600GT

Quote from @YUSSUF@ :

But anyone who knows Saudi Arabia is a professional DRIFT

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wsg8CFi8kIc

Woops! Professional drift?
I dont know if driver and other people ir can survived the crash , but thanks to "new car" and strong metal. Its not a secret that you have a lots of money so your health depends on quality of the car , of course new car. Driving like that you can easily die. A people is more important than 1-2min vid with awesome "pro drift" performance

Happy birthday to Modestas and Deadline Good luck!

Last edited by Derbis1990, Thu, 14 Jan 2010 10:32.

Quote from draugdel :

You have to sign up here and that´s it.

Oh silly me , thanks

I still dont get it. Schematic looks easy , not hard to do it alone but where i need to plug usb? Ok we plug our wheels with usb , thats true , but second wire from usb is mounted in wheel inside. I think this is fake. Pedals cant control nothing if they are connected just to single usb port. There is no chip or something inside that shitbox where pc can recognize it

Hi! I want to participate here , but i cant find nowhere where i need to register. There will be created new subforum or what?