Quote from PSR_Diablo :

OMG thinking that i could render wasn't such a good idea. :noob::arge:
I tried to keep going and not i'm stuck where he was stuck and i don't understand what he says he did to get it right



I was able to do this but when i try to add the skin i can see like the original skin file bleeding on the car windows and everywhere else i see lines and other stuff

It's no problem man. The deal is that the models are great but you do need to do a lot of work to get to where it looks right. Remember you're importing from a non-standard format (CMX) so some things are going to be wacky. I worked with 3DSmax for about 4 weeks years ago with version 3 and I'm just now getting back into it. It has taken me probably 10 hours of playing to understand these methods again - and I still don't have it nearly perfect. I decide what I want to change on the car then look up tutorials on the web for ideas how to get it done.

First off, you'll want to make the windows 'correct'. This will be similar to the wheel/tire fixes. First, select the car body. Now over on the right goto the 'Modify' tab where you selected 'Verticies select' mode before - but this time you want to select 'Faces' which is a couple buttons to the right (looks like a solid red triangle). Now in Perspective view use the pan and rotate tools (bottom right of your screen, looks like hand and twisty circles - or click-drag with your mouse wheel for pan, ALT-click-drag with mouse wheel for rotate!!) to get a good view of the windshield. Hold CTRL and click anywhere on the windshield - you'll notice it selects a triangle. Keep doing this until you've selected ALL the glass part of the windshield, and on the right panel use the 'Detach' button and name it correctly. Now your windshield is disconnected from the car body and can be given its own material! Keep doing this for all the glass on the car until they're all independant objects, then select them all at once and apply a glass material. Making a glass material isnt hard and there are tutorials ALL over the web. My best results were using the Raytrace Glass method, and not the instructions given in the LFSWIKI tutorial. But to each his own.

Last edited by gatorman, Mon, 16 Jan 2006 16:27.

OK lets see if i can remember this and describe it. I may have used a different method, but it only changes where the tutorial starts to get confusing. Select the model that contains the tire rubber, then right click and 'Hide Unselected'. All you should see is the tire and a floating hub (center). If you see anything else, just select it, right click and 'Hide selection'. Now select the verticies selection tool and drag-select the entire hub portion (the part floating in the center) - selected points turn red. Now you'll see theres a lip that looks like its part of the tire, but really we want it to be metal since it is the lip of the actual rim. Use Ctrl-click to select each of the points on the inside of that rim part - they will also turn red. I suggest you use the Perspective view to change your position and get at each one easily. Now you have selected parts, and we no longer want them to be associated with the tire rubber since they are metal. Over on the right panel you'll see the word 'Detach'. You may have to scroll the panel down to see it. Click the button 'Detach', it will ask for a name - I call it 'rim and hub'. Now click the verticies select tool to turn it off and right click anywhere and 'Unhide all'. Select the actual spokes of that same wheel, and over on that same panel to the right find 'Attach list'. Click that then select your object, in my case 'rim and hub'. What you have done is disconnected the rim and hub from the tire object and attached it to your rim spokes. Now you can apply a black rubber material to the tire and a chrome material to your rim, complete with hub, spokes, and lip! Now do that three more times for the rest of the wheels

I used the 3DS file, but actually I got the CMX importer working so I can load the default LFS car models into 3DSMax. Tell me, what is your goal for your project file? I'm always interested in what others are doing.

cool but i cant get the skins to texture right with that model. and all the parts are in another language.

I believe, based on the idea behind 'wiki', that you can actually edit that tutorial text live to make things more clear to others. If you can explain in more detail how to get through that procedure it would help others for sure. Look around for an 'Edit' button on the lfswiki page.

Been using the Brazil/Rio renderer w/ 3DSMax 7 trial (which is limiting me to 512x384, but thats fine for now). Just wondering if anyone saves their renderer settings as presets and wouldn't mind sharing them. I followed the lfswiki tutorial and have been using those settings explicitly. Wouldn't mind trying a few others and comparing results. Let's see what ya got.

nevermind, i got the CMX import plugin for 3DSmax 7 from rscnet

Are there any other CMX->3DS converters?

This is what i get when trying to convert CMX to 3DS using the above link:


java -cp Cmx_2_3ds "C:\Downloads\LFS_VIEWER_S2N_ALPHA\data\cmx\XRT - XR GT TURBO.cmx"

Exception in thread "main" java.lang.NoClassDefFoundError: C:\Downloads\LFS_VIEWER_S2N_ALPHA\data\cmx\XRT - XR GT TURBO/cmx

Last edited by gatorman, Thu, 12 Jan 2006 19:37.

anyone know how to check for rev A or rev B?

I bought a slim PS2 back when GT4 first came out JUST for that game. The Driving Force Pro wheel seemed cool but was far too expensive for just casual play at US$150 MSRP. Well I just upgraded to S2 license and after reading so many posts of people using the DFP with their PC and Wingman Team drivers I decided to look around for prices again. I'm happy to report that the Logitech Driving Force Pro can now be found for UNDER US$90 and less than $10 shipping. I don't know if it's acceptable to post where I bought it from but I can tell you it's a reputable dealer and they are in stock, which is more than I can say for a lot of places listing a higher price. I took the 3-day shipping option and received mine Friday 1/6 and WOW what a great product. I was using a twist handle joystick with S1 and that was kinda painful after a few laps.

Anyway if you couldn't swing $150 before, <$90 is probably good enough to make the purchase - at least it was for me. Go get em!