Quote from kingfag :

It's very likely not possible to use negative values on fields that normally work with positive-only numbers. I'm pretty sure Scawen is clever enough to use unsigned data types for non-negative fields (like the weight addition is an unsigned byte).
That's also the reason why huge numbers won't work (or screw up the game), the maximum value of a single byte is 255, so the maximum added weight for example is 255 kilo's. If you go beyound 255, it will overwrite the next byte in memory, which will probably break something (or even crash the game).

You are most probably right, I wanted to 'Set' a very high value for added weight and I saw ingame that it also affected 'Air intake restriction'. However, there are some items which can have higher values then 255, like the brake force for instance, those may have values up to 64k or from -32K till 32K

Quote from Leprekaun :

..... Just wondering, is it possible to mod hp, torque and weight? because I've been itching to try 1300 hp in the BF1

I suggest you try a brake value of -1500 or something like that, that will do!

Quote from tristancliffe :

Negative wing angles won't make a car fly. They'd be so inefficient outside of their design parameters that they'd produce drag, drag and more drag (which isn't properly modelled in LFS anyway, because it doesn't need to be).

Plane wings don't suddenly produce downforce with a slightly negative angle of attack, so why should a car wing produce lift with a slightly positive AoA?

It was just something I wanted to try. And I know that the downforce of the car itself (diffusor etc) is also calculated, and that was not changed.

Quote from Bob Smith :

Did you try a negative number? Should work in reverse then.

Yes, I tried that, but it did not work.

I also tried negative values for the wing angle, to generate lift and let the BF1 fly, but without result.

Most fun is to give the BF a negative brake force off about 1500. . First go 200 kmh by the engine, then go to neutral and then use the handbrake .

(Kind of a hybrid car then, power by the combustion V8 and another silent power source, haha. You won't use fuel so it very good for the environment

When you use the handbrake when you stand still you will blow your tires.

Make sure you go back on the track (leave pitting mode) everytime when you do Search with C-O-M.

I can change the minumum speed for the TC (on BF1) to O kmph. So you have always TC, except when car is moving backwards. Not very usefull or realistic, but .

Master Skinnerz is indeed a good resource.

I have made a site with the collection of my skins for all LFS cars, with also some mods.

video to show you some of my skins:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntXPu3oJSzY



this is my site -> Liveforspeedskins.tk
http://home.hccnet.nl/j.j.scheel/lfs

Last edited by liveforspeedskins.tk, Sun 21 Oct 2007, 09:17.

There is an app that is called 'outgaugegateway', which 'listens' to one port and duplicate the data on two ports.

But it is for Outgauge, you mean Insim?

I used it to use CSRemixer and MomoLEDs together. I tried to get these working together with AnalogeGauges, but I never had succes.

Good work!

Quote from Daviticus :

One thing I did notice on my machine also ...

... when using the updated d3d8.dll file, the game would run between 1 and 5 fps while using the gauges. Turning them off would render my usual 150-175 fps. I have since switched back to the older file, and it works perfectly.

Not sure if it's just my machine, or if others have had the same problem, but I thought I'd make it known.

Thanks.

I've had to same problem, it turned out the gauges.ini had some lines double, because I had added some lines manually and the Anagauge prog added the same lines to the files in another place. It did not matter with what d3d8 version i used.

I also get that error when I try to render (stop render)

==
Is fuel now only working with Left and Right? I can not get it working with digital/height/etc

Quote from FlyeThemoon :

Did i can have this Gauges http://img252.imageshack.us/my.php?image=revolucionestt6.png

It should be possible with half-transparant layers and a 'width' speed gauge.

I tried something like that: (RPM LEDs, Ricer style)

picture ->

files (for XR) -> http://www.lfsforum.net/attach ... id=38389&d=1188423809

Last edited by liveforspeedskins.tk, Tue 11 Sep 2007, 13:49.

Hoping that you will release it soon! (digital fuel)

==
a suggestion:

When you make 2 needles for all gauges,
you could make a shadow needle which is a few pixels below the normal needle. This bottom shadow needle then is the same size, but then half transparant black. To make it look like shadow of the needle.

My F430 gaugeset has also a shadow part on the needle, but that does not look so realistic because it is always on one side off the needle.

screen-> http://www.lfsforum.net/attach ... id=38324&d=1188335646

== (plz ask if you can not understand what I mean)


Good job and good luck!

Last edited by liveforspeedskins.tk, Fri 7 Sep 2007, 08:23. Reason : added screenie link

All I could find:

===
typo - Formular XR (pulldownbox)
typo - Back(g)round (Gauges) and tab
===

situation= I have manually set Font color (speed) set to ff009900

I go to
Speed tab
Font SPEED ->
it shows ff009900 @ Font Color textbox ->
Font Color [...] button ->
I change nothing, just close it with X or with cancel ->
Font color checkbox is changed to ff000000
==

Nice looking !

Will there be a thread just for hand made gauge / replicas ?

Or is there somebody who could collect all new gauges in a pack?



You could use my Ferrari F430 ( for FZ ) gauge and the Ricer nfs style gauge I'm working on.

Quote from Dudles :

Just to show... an attached screenie... not ready yet... have to work on thwe speedo accuracy...

What font type did you use? Is it SF Digital Readout ?

(that is what I use for my F430 gauges)

For Analog Gauges (I tried with the XRT)

I have been testing for half an hour and here is the result so far, a meter that changes color (kmh meter) and a RPM meter with LEDs, I know it looks awful, but if you test it you could see the possibilities.

The zip file contains all files, just place (overwrite) in XRT folder. Back-up !

I am working on Ferrari F430 gauges with digital and analog RPM & Speed.

The original F430 RPM gauges goes to 10, but for the the FZR I made it to 12

original ( pic ) :
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wi ... 006_Chicago_Auto_Show.jpg

original ( video ) :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKKrhSqZLfY

I like it very much, but the turning light also affects the front lights, dont they? Or did you left them the same?

my skinsite liveforspeedskins.tk

direct link-> http://home.hccnet.nl/j.j.scheel/lfs/

You are right about the size of the lever, if I had to do it again I would make the H-pattern plate a few centimeters (1 inch) shorter

Quote from mrodgers :

liveforspeedskins.tk, I love where you have your shifter. This is my biggest problem is where to put my shifter once it's done. Though it's heavy enough to probably just set on a small stand or even a chair next to me at the desk. Now I wish I had a drawer on the desk beside me

I'm so lucky that its fits in their exactly, I first wanted to screw it under the table or make a frame to fit on my chair, but it turned out that it fit perfectly in my lower draw. You have to make sure that your shifter is mounted steady, I must 'lock' my draw so it does not move while shifting.

Ready

It took some hours (and money :shrug but I am more than satisfied with the result.

I have also connected an second old pedal set for clutch.
the gears and button are assigned by car (LFS script)


I have made more photos of it during the building proces (if anybody is interested)

Using your Lego for your pedals

this is my home made shifter, with an old pedal set for clutch.:eclipsee_

the one out of wood was my first try, if anybody wants to have it.


more about my shifter on this thread -> http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=25075

Many people made alternative interiors/lights.

A also made nice headlights for most of the cars



link to my site where you could download these -> http://home.hccnet.nl/j.j.scheel/lfs/ (liveforspeedskins.tk)

Quote from LoganC :

Wow! That's really coming along well! I'm still waiting for my Shifter knob! But the one you have looks very nice! BTW, where did you buy those micro switches? How much were they and what model? They look VERY good! Seems that they would work well!
-LoganC-

I bought them @ the local handy-shop for €2 each

costs so far:

Speedlink joystick 12,99
microswitches 12,00
other swithces 4,00
old wheel 4,00
carbon look sheet 10,79+
total 43,78 ->



to anarchypredator

Nice that it works well, because of the size I think it will feel realistic.

My gear lever is shorter then yours , but longer then the one on the G25.

Your pictures remind me of my first attempt, completely out of wood.




My first plan was to use my Gravis Gamepad Pro to connect the switches, but I dont think that I could solder that good enough.

I changed my mind about my earlier plan.

I've spend some hours, and €uros and this is what I've got so far:

overview1.jpg/overview2.jpg - my H-shifter a winebox with some aluminium parts and the gearlever from the MOMO. (left on the picture you can see the aluminum plate for the H-pattern)

close-up_microswitch.jpg - I connected 6 microswitches to the circuitboard off a Speedlink USB joystick.

gear_lever_momo.jpg -gear_lever_momo2.jpg - The Logitech MOMO comes with a gear lever with a M6 bolt. I drilled and tapped a 25x25mm aluminium bar to connect them.

drawing_side.jpg - drawing_top.jpg - H-shifterplate.jpg - the drawings I made by hand.


====================

Material:

Joystick-
The USB Speedlink has 8 buttons, a POV hat and three axes. One axe I will use for a clutch pedal. (I could use another axe to make a handbrake)

Old Thrustmaster wheel-
I will use the pedal as a clutch, to replace the joystick I'm currently using as a clutch.

6 Microswitches-
Approx 14x7mm (NO&NC)

Pulse switch
For engine start/stop button (ignition)

Pulse/conatant switch
A small switch which can make pulse contact or constant contact (for handbrake)

Last edited by liveforspeedskins.tk, Wed 13 Jun 2007, 22:21. Reason : added pictures

This is my idea about making it 'impossible' to shift.

the red plate is pulled down (by electromagnets or relais) in normal conditions.

When the clutchpedal (in my case an old yostick) is full pressed in you will make contact with a small switch wich will release the red plate pulling down.

Now you can move the H shifter to another gear untill you release the clutch.

The red plate will be pulled down again and locks the shifter in its position.


(the switch on the clutch seems easier then InSim and extra hardware to control the 'locking' of the shifter.)

what do you think of this idea?

Last edited by liveforspeedskins.tk, Wed 6 Jun 2007, 10:31. Reason : added the pic

When you are standing still? Do you mean the movement of the car because of the torque of the engine?