And lift your brake pedal gently - i found this more important then just more forward brake bias... If you get off the brakes too fast you will unsettle whole car...

Quote from DaveWS :

Ok, a have a few more issues now with the sim.

Firstly, collisions online. I know someone has mentioned this before, but the first time something strange happened was shortly after the lights went green in a race. I had a good run on someone, and he left enough room (just) for me to squeeze up the inside. However as I moved alongside, there was a collision, which glued our cars together, and I ended up flying off the track to the left despite steering right.

In other collisions, the damage you receive seems massively exaggerated to the extent even of iRacing. The tiniest of tap leaves your car almost undrivable.

Now, the most dissappointing flaw I have found so far, is a strange delayed weight transfer oversteer issue. It's almost like a tankslapper, but it happens after you have already finished correcting the slide. It only seems to happen on corner exits too, when you are really provoking the car.

I uploaded a video to mediafire: http://www.mediafire.com/?11mjg4mozm3 and here's a youtube version too: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lm2k3p9NgJ0&fmt=18

In the video you can see me correcting oversteer on the exit of a corner. Now the car suddenly snaps to the right well after I have finished correcting the slide, and if you look closely my wheel is even turned to the left slightly when it happens!

I must admit, I haven't seen it yet happen to me...
That behaviour is similar to handbrake turn.

Quote from DaveWS :

One major problem I'm having, and more so with this than any other sim, is tearing. Now either I turn on v-sync, and get quite major lag which massively impacts the connection with the car; or I limit the framerate. In other sims I limit to the fps to just under 60, so that I get little to no input lag, and very little tearing. However in NKP the tearing is horrific. Any help or suggestions? Cheers.

I was having similar issues, after turning off FPS overlay in Ati Tray Tools, no more tearing.
Also for wheel lag - if you use ati card, find "Render frames ahead" or something similar, and set it to zero.
I'm not on my home pc, so I don't know exact name...

Hi!

@danowat, try this:

under "setup2" tab
FF Friction 0%
FF Damping 0%
FF Gain 1,0

And increase caster to, lets say, 11,0°. Caster is i think on susp2 settings.

Quote from RS1T :

it would make SENSE for a car in a RACING game to have adjustable features. The FXO RB4 and XRT are all 'imaginary' cars that people can go out and buy, so why arn't there limited setups on them as well

Here is your answer.

Quote from Scawen :

.... The plan is to make it have only the setup options that are readily available on a real road going Scirocco....

Quote from RS1T :

that is not good news, that is shit. If there was a scirocco cup in real life then of course all the drivers would be able to tune the suspension . This is bullshit

Well, the car simulated in LFS isn't any sort of Scirocco Cup Car isn't it?
It's ordinary VW Scirocco which anyone can buy, and it doesn't have adjustable suspension.

I'm very glad to hear that it would be "locked" setup-wise. Close racing guaranteed! + this is the only way it is going to be representation of real scirocco.

Quote from george_tsiros :

it frustrates me to no end when i read such NONSENSE.

'shit' did not happen. you made that shit. if you want to take praise for the good things you've done, you have to accept the opposite when you do something... well... shitty. If you do not, then praise loses significance. black/white, ying/yang, good/bad, duality and all that jibba jabba.

i've heard this so many times it has become a major nuisance.

- "i smashed into a wall because i took the turn too fast. well, shit happens."

no. that is not 'shit' happening. that is you doing an error. 'shit happening' is the wheel coming off even though you had your car serviced. 'shit happening' is not when you had control of the situation, but managed to cock it up because you were ignorant or just plain stupid.

Well said and explained. I agree. I do really

Quote from george_tsiros :

well, yeah. you can and in fact it is quite easy most of the time. not for the whole country, of course, but for a single person it is quite easy.

here let me give you an example... first, just tell me what do you study and/or work, so that i know what kind of example to give you.

I'm studying electrical engineering.

Hard to understand, but I did skid for that long. Now when I read those lines, and think of that what happened before, it's bit scary to think of it... But as Ive mentioned, that 85 mph skid was few years ago. Back then I was young inexperienced and stupid driver, who thought he knows how to drive.

I've mentioned that ONLY because someone said that it is impossible to lock wheels on high speeds. I've said that because that REALLY happened to me, skid mark stayed there for long time, tires were changed few days after that.
No I was not joking. And I'm not proud of this braking. But it did happen. And I've written it here ONLY to show that it is possible to lock wheels. Sh*t happens.

And I don't like the thing that this thread in some parts went off topic - onto discussion what I did and what I could have done (not quite sure is this grammatically ok).
You cannot judge someone and eventually whole country from a few forum posts, I written here two things that happened to me in my life which both lasted maybe 15seconds, but scary 15 seconds of it. Again, it was written here only because someone said it isn't possible to lock a wheels when braking - and I know it is possible.

Everyone sorry for the offtopic and multiple repeating of "only for the...".

Quote from ssm :

Wouldn't you stop faster if you DIDN'T lock up the brakes?

Yes. And why did I locked them? I will quote myself.
"But in a situation i described above you are just not prepared and you arent "awake" enough to react properly."

When you are out on track, doing lap after lap, you are all in the "mood" for perfomance driving, not locking the wheels, not putting too much power onto the wheels, and so on. In everyday traffic you go easy with the brake pedal, you brake from far distance. What I want to say is that you don't think like you were out on a track. If a dangerous situation occurs and only solution is to stop as soon as possible, believe me you would just climb on the brake pedal.

IMO wheels lock easily, It isnt too hard to lock a wheel even on speed. Dont know for high quality rubber, I'm on budget tires - probably the biggest reason why it is easy to lockup. Also widht is only 175.

too much off topic... Ive just given rl example..

Last edited by lovretta, Wed, 13 Aug 2008 00:53.

Quote from george_tsiros :

jesus christ. i hope you are either joking or testing something.
or, at least, learn to brake!!!

First situation 85 to zero - COW went onto the road. Luckily missed it and slowed down in time...

Second sitation, happend last week.
Im driving my way home, tired after work. Open road, not city. Coming to a junction, I'm on the main road. And coming into it, I see what. A car driving form the left side. What should I do? i just stomped on the brake pedal. In the last few meters, just moments before we should crash, he stopped completely, I was still sliding on my locked wheels. I released the brake and went around him. And the again stomped on it.

Infact I know really good how to threshold brake, and heel n toe very good. I'm actually forced to use heel n toe, because shifting from 3rd into 2nd in my r19 is impossible without throttle blip.

But in a situation i described above you are just not prepared and you arent "awake" enough to react properly. Ive mentioned it just to correct someone saying it is impossible to lock wheels on normal cars...

sorry for the offtopic.

Quote from Hallen :

If you are talking about high speeds and having the brakes lock, then that is because LFS allows you to put silly high braking force values on the car. Real cars won't lock up at high speed no matter how hard you press on the brake. Try it in your passenger car. Get up to 60 or 70 mph and mash the brakes. You won't start feeling the ABS until you are slowed down to something like 40ish mph (assuming you have decent tires).

Really? I've driven several cars with no abs, few times had hard braking, few years ago from almost 140kph (~85 MPH) and tires locked all the way to zero kmh. Car in this case is Renault Clio 1.5dci (65HP) ~1000kg
Also recently, I braked from little over 100km/h (60mph) and wheels locked totally - tires on the car were around two weeks old. This here is Renault 19 1.4 (72HP), 930kg...

So i think your statement isnt quite right.

The Prodigy - Always Outnumbered, Never Outgunned (album)

Hi guys! I like how far this idea of using RL set has made it I've also tried to do something about it, I think your rebound is too low, I would leave bump to something like 5-6 Rear and same for front, for the rebound I would set it to something like 17-18. Also try to "drop" the car while in garage, you will notice how it bounces alot. Then do this: increase tire pressure A LOT, it almost wouldn't bounce.
I didn't watch too many GT3 cup races for long time, but I don't remember any bouncing, this is probably due to GT3 cup RL tyres having stiffer sidewalls then LFS ones.

Onto the rFactor thing. I also tought of checking into PCC2007 mod about data; GSMF (modding team which created it) said that they got all car specs from a real team!
But again, just looking at rFactor's garage screen is I would saynot correct at all. PCC .hdv files needs to be checked. WHY?
Well, because, you cannot litteraly transfer values from rF to LFS.
Hmm it seems stupid, are you sure? I'm pretty much sure about it, because: in .hdv file you define what is the default amount of downforce generated, then you define steps how much is it increased when in garage and finally how many steps will be there.
So, values should be checked. I will do it tomorrow, since now I'm not at home, and I don't have anything installed over here.

Last edited by lovretta, Thu, 29 May 2008 21:39.

Hello I've found more data; especially considering tyres pressure.
Ride height is measured when all 4 tyres are inflated to 1.5bar WITH driver in.
Minimum front tyre pressure is 1.43bar
Minimum rear tyre pressure is 1.32 bar.

Quote from bbman :

Ok, it's also kind of important which values those are...

Heh , written nothing since I really didn't know what to write. This also should be calculated - why? Well, this is the data on arb's
Front: steel 26.8mm diameter
Rear: steel 20.7mm diameter.
Probably it could be calculated using some formulas, steel rigidity or similiar "constants", also lenght, and one more thing is missing, this is probably outer diameter, whats with the inner...
And another thing. This is the data of the 996 911 GT3 Cup. But it should be close.


Don't know have I posted this one, but it is much detailed

http://www.motorsport.org.nz/P ... 8%20GT3%20Tech%20Regs.pdf

Quote from bbman :

I like the idea, will have to see if I can find the time to take part...

If the 260 N/mm are right, it's off the scale for the FZR (only goes to 250 N/mm)...

I have Test patch Y19.

Quote from bbman :

From what I've understood, the only adjustable parameters in terms of suspension are the ride height and the ARB's...

ARBs's:
Front - five different settings
Rear - four different settings

Quote from bbman :

Gearing is fixed, as is the diff locking, but there is no mentioning of tyres and steering... Also, you've got to throw in 20 kg more ballast, as the minimum weight with driver is 1240 kg...

The minimum racing weight for:
Class 997 vehicle, including the driver is 1,240kg.
Question is what "racing weight" means - how much fuel is this.


It really is hard to reconstruct these in LFS, especially considering that 997 Cup has 260N/mm springs, which none of these WR sets seem to use, they use much much less. Also car has another spring.
More on relation between "Main" and "second" springs:
http://e30m3performance.com/te ... sp-tech/springs/index.htm
So considering this, actual wheel rate may not be so easily calculated, maybe it is possible to combine tender and main spring so that actual spring rate can be calculated -which is probably less then 260n/mm

If the locked setups will be used, it would be brand new car in LFS.

Last edited by lovretta, Sun, 25 May 2008 21:09.

What about setups? Porsche GT3 Cup cars all use the same -locked- suspension setup and gear ratios? If values could be found from somewhere it would be very realistic

Check this
http://www.motorsport.org.nz/P ... %20Tech%20Regs%20App1.pdf
Edit: also this
http://www.motorsport.org.nz/P ... 8%20GT3%20Tech%20Regs.pdf


Almost all data is here; springs are described with three numbers:

100-60-260; This means
60mm inner diameter

100mm lenght

260 N/mm spring rate

Last edited by lovretta, Sat, 24 May 2008 19:57.

Quote from Gekkibi :

Want to have balanced kit-car? Buy Test Drive Unlimited and start to laugh. It is (imho) the easiest B-grade car in the whole game. I just failed to lose the control (And I am playing without any driving aids).

Saying this, I prefer LFS kit-cars more, even I have no idea how to drive them.

Hi, I've done my "test drive" with TDU -and laughed alot - they failed to make fun arcade... I like some of them, but TDU's cars drive terrible, every one of them feels more like a tank (on rails) then car..

1. XRG - I love this car, it somehow has great chassis, lacks power - which is good thing, you can easily take it to the limit & floor it all the time

2. RAC - Only mid-engined ROAD car in LFS... I love idea of mounting engine in the middle - thats where it should be, also probably the most "rewarding" car in LFS

3. XRT - XRG with more power... would love if it had some non turbo V6, also very great to drive (with right setup)

4. LX4 - as someone said beautifully balanced power/chassis, LX6 - i wonder if someone gave me it in RL how would it be

5. F08 - animal, BMW F1 seems more refined

6. UF1 - love it

7. FZ5 - Porsche Maranello 911 is fun

8. others

Last edited by lovretta, Sat, 24 May 2008 07:30.

No. It isn't possible to hear any V6 sound coming out of FXO 4 cylinder flat engine. Because it's 4 cylinder. LFS generates engine sound based on some factors. One of very very important ones is the-number-of-cylinders

LFSWorld Username: lovretta
I would like to run for the position of nation's manager: no
Skills: driver

Quote from RedCoupe :

I've also heard that at least the DFP has a special mode for handicap people where if the pedals are not connected the paddles are assigned an axis and can be used as gas/brake.

Never actually tried it though.

As far as I know, and I know it really good, this kind of behaviour is exatcly what happens on Driving Force - pedals disconnected - paddles are not buttons anymore - they become pedals.
Not the case on DFP - DFP has just two tiny paddle-shift like buttons
Just try disconnecting your pedals (I suppose your are DFP owner) - nothing happens - in fact something does - you don't have throttle and brake now

Quote from Skof :

Hi guys,

Do you know if there's a steering wheel with breaks and throttle on the steering wheel, instead of pedals?

I have a great seat but it's impossible to use pedals on that one so I'm looking for a steering wheel with all controls on the wheel.

Thanks in advance!

Back on topic...
Logitech Driving Force has analog paddles.

But the BIG problem is that Logitech does not manufacture this model anymore. I don't know is the replacement model also equipped with analog paddles.

Maybe chek on eBay...