Quote from GP4Flo :

In a manual you have to read through loads of pages first.

*sound of support professionals around the globe grinding their teeth*

lyd

This has been driving me crazy since I started using LFS, but I figured I wasn't going to say anything about it if no one else did. ;-)

I have a PC I built specifically to play this game, and my normal machine is a G4 on the other side of the room. Since, being new, I spend most of my time practicing in an empty server, I frequently just park and step away when I need a break. Invariably (and leaving aside the possible irony of taking a break from one computer by sitting down at another) I will be reading a web page or answering email or something and have to run back across the room to hit "P" in order to make the awful screechy noise stop.

I agree it is not that big a deal, though. Certainly low priority on the fix list. I'm just happy I'm not the only one. ;-)

lyd

Quote from P5YcHoM4N :

Though with a two year warrenty

Did you misspeak/misremeber, or did they issue a longer warranty in the UK?

The warranty on mine is 1 year.

lyd

Quote from tristancliffe :

I still like mine.

I love mine, and I am not terribly worried about any possible problems. It's got a year warranty and I am going to be using the hell out of it, so if there is a critical design flaw I have no doubt it will surface before it costs me $$. Well, shipping notwithstanding. Hopefully we will be able to send just the wheel back to reduce the cost of that.

Anyway, I'm perfectly happy with it.

lyd

Good grief. I was planning to sell my DFP, but I think I might just keep it as a backup for use during potential RMA shenanigans with the G25.

We probably shouldn't be too shocked. The DFP had it's problems in the first revisions as well. (Heck, it still has some problems.) Price of early adoption and all that.

lyd

EDIT: My g25 doesn't make more noise when turning left, but it seems to make different noise. A slightly lower frequency accompanied by a bit of rattling when turning it medium-fast. Pretty much a milder version of what seems to be happening to the wheel in the video. *shrug* We'll see what happens, I guess.

Last edited by lyd, Wed 8 Nov 2006, 22:02.

You guys are amazing, especially you "my first skin" folks.

I have never been able to skin anything worth a damn, although I always have the obsessive need to do so in any sim I have used.

I have tried two so far in LFS, the RB4 was the first and is monstrously lame, and the FXR was the second is only a tiny bit less lame. (I'd post screens of the latter, but it is definitely not finished.) Kudos to all of you for your graphic design-foo. I stand in awe.

lyd

Quote from richy :

I often get Flotch's setup, then i find flotches WR then i watch the replay, then i try and do the same thing.

I have never tried hotlapping, I'm still too busy trying to learn to drive and setup the car in lfs, but I have downloaded a few hotlap replays and setups to help me figure these things out.

Thing is, I wound up more confused than when I started. Locked diffs? Four-wheel drifting on corner exits? Cutting corners over huge curbs and flipping the car up on two wheels?

Does anyone really drive like this in races?

I wasn't sure what to make of it all.

lyd

Quote from KENWOOD :

when i press view back button i have 5-10fps

I noticed this also. C2D 6600 @ stock speed (2.4Ghz), 2GB DDR2 800, EVGA 7900GTO. I usually run with with vertical sync on so my framerate is pinned to the 60Hz refresh rate of my lcd, but when I look behind me it drops into the 40's. 1680x1050 32 bit. I have AA, AF and everything else cranked up as far as it will go.

On the other hand, it also drops into the 40's for just a second at a couple places on the circuit, like when approaching that big tire over the track (still a noob, mostly driving blackwood gt at this point), which it doesn't seem like it should do with the rig I've got, so it might be some problem on my end rather than in LFS.

lyd

EDIT: Argh. Posting before coffee, and I clicked into this from the "new posts" list so I didn't catch this was the patch test forum. The above behavior happens both unpatched and with U30, so I am pretty sure this post does not belong in this thread. I'm sorry about the spamming.

lyd

Last edited by lyd, Tue 7 Nov 2006, 11:56.

Quote from Bob Smith :

Wheel turn: 540
Wheel Turn Compensation: 0.00, I like it linear

Bob, my understanding of the way this works is, if you are in a car coded with 540* and have your wheel set to 540*, then it is going to be linear no matter what you set compensation to.

But if you have your wheel set to 540*, compensation at zero, and jump in a car coded to 720*, yeah it will be linear, but it will be all weird with respect to realism in the sim because that 720* is being linearly mapped to the 540*. Likewise, if you jump in a 400* car, it is going to warp it the other way.

Isn't better, if you are not going to change the wheel rotation for each car in profiler, to set it for 720* and compensation for 1, so that it is not only linear but 1:1 with the simulated car?

Assuming I haven't muddled the whole concept, of course. I was doing what I described above until recently, and it always seemed to work as I have described. Lately I have been just changing the rotation to match each car, because with the g25 being so much smoother I find the force lock helpful.

Oh, and for the record (and to stay somewhat on topic ;-), my settings are :

Overall Effects Strength: 100%
Spring Effects Strength: 0%
Damper Effect Strength: 0%
Enable Centering Spring: Yes
Centering Spring Strength: 0%
Separate pedal axes.
Degrees of Rotation: matched to the car.

Wheel turn: matched to the car.
Wheel Turn Compensation: 1
Force Strength: 85%

lyd

My DFP is slightly over a month old (yes, I know I am a sucker, but I couldn't resist the G25 after my racing buddy bought his ;-), looks absolutely brand new, still under warranty and of course with all the original packaging. I was hoping to sell it to a guy I work with for $65 USD. (Paid about $100 USD for it from Amazon, although it appears they have since raised the price (?!) by $20).

Just in case that helps anyone with pricing theirs.

lyd

Thanks for the responses, guys. I've been using manual on the FXR so far, and also on the RB4. Those are really the only two cars I've spent any serious time driving in LFS, so far. I was just using paddles for both with the DFP.

I think I'll try switching to the sequential stick and autoclutch on the FXR for a while and see how that goes.

Doesn't anything use a sequential trans but manual clutch for up and down shifts, a la my motorcycle? (Well, okay, I don't always *use* the clutch on my bike, but you get the drift.)

lyd

I know that there are several threads about this already, and many more mentions of the topic contained in other threads. I have searched for and read most of it. Still, I don't really have a clear idea of what the most likely inputs for each car would be. If you can all forgive what might be a rehash, could we sum it up?

It seems the F1 car would be best matched with paddles+auto lift+auto blip and auto clutch. Does that seem about right?

The road cars I would expect to be H-pattern with no auto anything.

The GTR's and the rest of the open wheel cars are what have me most stumped. IRL, it seems I find all combinations from all-manual H, through sequential stick or paddles with manual clutch and rev-matching, to full-auto everything with paddles or stick.

What choices make the most sense for which cars with respect to what you would find being used IRL?

I should add, forget about what is fastest for the moment. I have this nifty new controller that can emulate all of these options, and I would just like to play around with using it as realistically as possible for the time being.

Thanks a lot for any help.

lyd

Quote from Bob Smith :

I mean, it's a valid point Hyperactive, I just don't care enough about going fast to worry about it. So long as I'm driving hard, to my limits, and having fun, surely that's all that matters?

Makes sense to me. I didn't flatshift before I had the g25, always left autolift on. Just seemed wrong to do otherwise. Made me cringe everytime the revs spiked.

I'm certainly not going to do it now that I have the new toy. ;-) I am having much more fun right now, as frustrating as it still is at this stage of practice, flailing away at my pedals and h-shifter than I would just sticking with paddles and auto-clutch/auto-lift, and forget about flatshift.

Not that I have a problem with people who want to be competitive exploiting all the loopholes -- racing is all about taking every possible means to go fast, right? But personally, I'd rather just flail away. It puts a bigger smile on my face.

lyd

So, who is going to be the first to post pics of their water-cooled G25?

Or maybe a couple of big heatsinks on the motors and sticking out the top of the case in a six pack-esque fashion?

I think I'll just take a hole saw to mine and mount a nice 80mm LED case fan. LOL

Okay, sorry... must be time for a nap.

lyd

Up until this moment I have used cockpit view with a FOV of 76* and sometimes a little pitch. The FOV and pitch I use to try to match the dash (driver and wheel off, real clocks) up with my real wheel and hands so it all seems, in perspective, to the proper scale. It only works so-so.

I just noticed, however, that since I installed U30 I can turn off wheel and driver in the custom views as well, so I am going to immediately switch to that. Using the Y and Z offset is a much better way to do what I want, but I never liked having to live with the in-game wheel.

Yay for test patches!

lyd

EDIT: Eh. Maybe I got a little over excited. After playing around with the custom view for a bit, I wound up with something pretty close to what I started with. What I really need in order to get some satisfaction here is a 3-head setup and rl gauges. Ah well, maybe someday. For now, with my current rig, there just doesn't seem to be a good way to get semi-realistic view out of the car without virtualizing the clocks and the mirrors, which kind of spoils the effect.

Not that any of this makes it any less fun. ;-)

lyd

Last edited by lyd, Sun 5 Nov 2006, 18:26.

Quote from mrfell :

STEADY Does it, G25 Noob ahead!!

Your sig made me laugh. ;-)

Come to think of it, I think I will skin one of these onto the back bumper of all the cars I drive for a while.



lyd

Quote from Bob Smith :

Sorry, by the time I had edited by post, I was implying I'd turned it off for the night.

Yeah, I got that. I went looking before you edited it. Maybe I hit it just as you were giving up, though.

Sounded like fun to me.

lyd

Quote from Bob Smith :

I'm running a G25 noobs server if everyone wants to get together.

.... some hours pass ....

Well, one person joined, and I got bored. Server PC is noisy.

I looked for it, but couldn't find it. The joys of noobishness, I guess. Tried searching for user "MRNL" and also just scanning the server names for something containing "G25", but no luck either way. What's the trick?

I agree with you about the more upright pedals. The change in foot/leg angle is really hammering my calf muscles.

lyd

Quote from bbman :

Nope it's as simple as you're using an axis as clutch when you've set (or it was set by the patch) it to clutch with a button (above the button/axis assignments)...

Bingo. As my grandma used to say, if it was a snake it would've bit me. I knew it was going to turn out I was just being a dumb-ass and missing something obvious. ;-)

Thanks for the pointer.

glyphon, thanks for the scripts. They'll be a good template for my plans to move some functionality over from the logitech profiler.

lyd

Let me be clear up front that I know (or at least I think) that this is not a problem with the test patch itself, which is why I am posting here rather than in that thread. I am only noting that for information.

Unfortunately, I am not sure exactly where the problem is, so I was hoping for a suggestion before I spend a lot of time barking up the wrong tree.

Got the G25 a couple of days ago (love it) and everything was working fine using the stick with auto lift/blip turned off.

Last night I was looking around the forum and saw all the neat things that had been included in the test patch, most notably fixes for the audio, so I downloaded and installed it.

Since then, the clutch does not seem to be working properly. The clutch is recognized in the game in the horizontal list of axes under axis 4/Y axis. I see the yellow bar moving as expected when I press the pedal. Axis 4 is assigned to the clutch in the config on that screen, but I do not see the vertical indicator in the bottom right moving with the pedal.

I have tried doing the re-calibrate axes thing, to no effect, but so far not had time for anything else. I am off to work right now and plan to get back into it when I get home tonight.

Would this issue be related to the scripts that were introduced with the patch (I had not previously edited the default ones), and that's where I need to make adjustments? Or do I likely have some other config issue?

Thanks much for any input. (Ha! Pun!) ;-)

lyd

Last edited by lyd, Sat 4 Nov 2006, 12:07.

That would be excellent, thanks.

lyd

Quote from shrubba :

SPic of my racing rig is from 4 years ago when it had the old logitech wheel. now it has the G25 and the shifter attached. I'll have to get updated pictures soon.

I hope this isn't too much of a threadjack, but I would really like to see a cut sheet and plan (with join angles, specifically) for that sim rig.

I have been looking at an awful lot of different designs over the last several weeks, and that one is hands down the best I've seen for my application.

Is there a chance of getting some documentation that would be sufficient for me to hand to a local welder?

lyd