I have to admit when going from the S13 to the E36 I was like: "What's the granny accelerator doing here". But it just feels like a normal one after a few hours.. U just have to think that the lower part just isn't there

And not all BMW's are driving by cocks, 99% are however

SWAP TIME!! EURO M3 y000000000000000

Wrong, it's a hairdressers car with VTEC. It's a cool car to drive!

Can't we send the money to YOU personally as a gift and you just put it on the company account?

Quote from E.Reiljans :

1. uninstall GTA IV
5. profit :]

corrected for you

Your name just did you justice.

So you are going to drive flinstone style then?

My simota air intake kit

Quote from XCNuse :

snip

Hmm ok, that true. I guess 10's also would catch on the inside. Looks good!

Apart from all the whining and people who only like standard looking cars, wheels look really neat! How many hours went into them? Although they could use a bit more dish (lower ET)

Quote from Bose321 :

Looks like a boring drift track if you'd ask me. Come over to zandvoort, they recently converted a paddock into a drifting area.

Its been years used for drifting at zandvoort. Been there few times.

The reasons because it's wet is because there are allot of underpowered cars (amateur class) and circuit-zolder doesn't permit dry drifting (noise etc..)

Jim, the R33 is reeeeaaaalllly NICE!







Little movie of me and my teammate drifting

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guJ6-FYYW78&feature=share

Quote from sam93 :

Don't really fancy FWD on rally but may have to be done. Only thing with thinking about FWD is giving it stick on gravel front wheels spinning whilst going around a corner aint good and would need a lot of use of the handbrake it whip it around a corner, but that would mean a lot of handbrake cables to go through lol. Thinking of what to use, Impreza Sport classic could be good and after a while always the chance of putting in the STI lump when used to it I suppose. I do currently have a Civic EG but never heard of people rallying them as it's already stripped out would just need cage, buckets, better shocks (coilovers on it atm not made for rallying) and polybushing on the suspension.

I would most likely want to build the car up as else you're using someone else's work tbh, which I wouldn't wanna do.

Hydraulic handbrake, make sure you then have a wilwood cylinder

@ Franky:
I guess you're right, for rallying the best drive would be RWD or 4WD.

Imo as a beginner it will be much easier to handle a FWD. Very very much more forgiving.

Just pre-ordered FM4 Limited Edition. Can't wait for my unicorn RX-7 on Forza 3

Try to buy a car that is fully ready for it. Will be expensive in one buy but probably cheaper then doing it in pieces..
I think u'd best go for a light FWD car

Quote from der butz :

Aaw, that's not so nice!

Why didn't you build this thing the logical way? The cage now makes the inside almost inaccessible for someone who wants to weld something, the pipe insulation around it could catch fire while welding the holes.

Why did you use the standard dials and surrounding if you have to smear 20 kilos of putty around it to make it look at least half decent? A simple aluminium sheet folded a few times would have been cheaper, easier to fix and looked better.

I would have cleaned, welded and fixed all the stuff, painted (inside and out), then I'd have placed all the stuff in the car.

But hey, just being constructive in criticism, the car has to fit you, not me!

greetz

der butz

Thank you for the comment
It is true that it has been a little bit unlogical.. But the car was bought as trackready, however later it seemed that the people did a terrible job at it. Covering every hole etc.. instead of welding it. The cage came out as soon as possible and was replaced by a decent one. I was still driving on the track so I couldn't go without a cage. It's OK to work on with the cage, just a little trickier then without one . The cagepadding is not just some isolation tube. It's fire resistant rollcage padding, not really cheap. And I can just remove it so it won't catch fire

I'm keeping my standard dials because it's easy to check everything, and I don't see what the putty has to do with that . There are comming 3-4 gauges extra for oil temp/pressure and some other stuff.

Well as said, while building the car I was driving it, so that's why everything is a bit mixxed up

Still appriciate the critism!

Greets,
Kevin

Added aerocatch hoodpins, refitted dashboard, fitted water temp gauge. The rest of the holes in the dash will be filled up. Tomorrow we'll be cleaning up the interior and start welding all the holes

Well... i'd rather have her doing that in 5 mins that driving into mine in 2 seconds

what the **** is a redittor?

What happened to the mirrors? Did you hit someone while cutting a corner?

Haha, who would pay for apps and music

Best way to do is:

- Apply full throttle when going to the corner.
- Just before the corner push the clutchpedal
- Hold the clutch pedal en while you do that pull the handbrake
- Countersteer and again apply full throttle.
- If you sence there is a powerloss, press and depress very rapidly the clutchpedal, you will notice a loss in traction.

Car got alligned for free today and i've mastered Denicol oil sponsorship.

We know very good what we are doing over here

[QUOTE=dadge;1622232]hey idiot, how do you explain the stickers on his car then? what function to they have?
For show offcourse, and we wanted something to stand out besides all the other boring cars out here..

most track cars i've seen have both headlights. he could at least colour the "working" light black.
Paint the working light black? That full of gay and then my working light wouldn't work that much anymore, wouldn't it?

just because an opinion is different from yours. it doesn't mean that it's moronic or idiotic. only a complete window licker would think such a thing....
Correct, opinions are different. Thank god for that.

i still think it looks ugly(like broke). <<< my opinion. also my opinion; i don't know why someone would spend so much money on a car not to make a tidier job on the headlight space.
The way i spend my money is my problem . It's a good solution how it is. Don't fix it if it ain't broken mkay?

EDIT: he could do something like this: http://www.technicalgarage.com/articles/e36/lintake/ or http://www.turnermotorsport.co ... -headlight-cover-e36.aspx
while searching for examples, i found this post: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76321

Uhm that first link is JUST THE SAME as me.. Just some stupid plastic remaining on the borders. Wich I (ME, My opinion!) find very ugly.

Sooooo, it's safe to assume that removing the headlight is more about form and less about function...[/QUOTE]

Well they can state whatever they wan't but if tested it on track and i felt a difference. Extra cold air is ALWAYS better then hot air from the engine, especially N/A engines.