I'd like to see one homologation car - ONE - that weighs half as much as it's real world counterpart. There simply aren't any. The most weight that should be removed from a car is 15-20%, and even that's pushing it. Regardless, anyone whose used Mechanik or older Tweak knows that light cars do not fare well in this game as far as physics go.
Not if you don't have enough power after the curve to overcome aerodynamic drag.
Top speed SHOULD be geared for peak power unless that speed is well below maximum theoretical speed. Otherwise it's going to take a while to accelerate that last bit.
Yeah, you keep watching your sweet looking shift lever while I pass you in LFS =).
I'm all about form follows function. That's why my ugly real life 1987 Honda makes more power than most V8's on the road and still has the original 20 year old faded paint...
Oh.. Can we get a write up? I'd love to build my own shifter.
It would be nice, and I doubt it'd be hard, to impliment a way for the driver to set a max RPM the engine can attain. I know it's really hard to bring up boost in the FXR when trying to drag it, it takes forever. Keeping it near peak HP would be ideal =).
Wow, you overcomplicated things a bunch. Let me try and help point you in the right direction..
As far as racing with standard manual transmissions is concerned, focus on peak horsepower.
Ideally, you'd want the engine to run at peak horsepower at all times. Such operation could be made possible with a constantly variable transmission, which lets you rev to peak HP and holds it there indefinitely until you remove your foot from the skinny pedal.
On an engine with a bell curve on the horsepower graph, you'd want to shift so that you'd be at the same power before and after the shift. That is, you want the engine RPM to straddle the max horsepower RPM. On some cars, horsepower falls off quickly after peak horsepower, so you'd want to skew the gear ratio so that it favors the area before peak horsepower.
And it's better that you don't set the final drive ratio to 1. Most cars have final drives between 2.5 and 4.5 in real life, so a good starting point would be 3.5 or 3.75. Set it to that, then fix the gear ratios so that acceleration is ideal, and adjust FD after that to max the speed out on particular tracks.
But realistically, Bob Smith's Proj3 sets up gear ratios just fine. I always use the Auto Space Gearing button, and fiddle with the Adjustable Progressive setting (drop into top gear), depending on how peaky the car I'm tuning is.
Not only Honda uses the Type R moniker. Subaru, Mazda, etc also use the Type R badge. They're all better than Honda anyway (and this is coming from a Honda guy, lol).
Many, if not most, true rally stages have at least one part that's tarmac. What are featured in LFS are rallycross tracks, which are not true rallies at all. I would think that a true stage-style rally track is going to take a while to develop, if they develop one at all. Shouldn't be much harder than the drag racing track in terms of start to finish, though.
You can't shift very well in LFS unless you revmatch. It just won't switch gears.
You don't quite understand how transmissions work do you? When you're heel and toeing, your right foot is on the brake, slowing for a turn, and on the gas raising revs, while your left foot is on the clutch. Heel and toeing just gets the transmission in the correct gear to exit the upcoming turn. And with synchros, it's not too necessary to double clutch. Just bring the revs up to prevent driveline shock and stick the shifter into gear.
Also, the input shaft is connected to the clutch by a splined end. Can't move one without moving the other.
If you're using a mouse and keyboard (like me) you've got to realize that gas and brake is an on/off switch. There's no analog. As far as braking goes, what you need to do is set the max force per wheel at equal to or less than what your tires are capable of. I haven't done a whole lot of testing with the XR series (I prefer the FWD XF. I drive enough RWD cars in real life), but with the XFG I moved brake bias to 65% front and max force to about 535Nm. It sounds like a big knockdown from the default 650, but it's necessary since every time I hit the brakes I'll be doing it at 100% strength.
EDIT: THe way I did this is to run up to about 60-80mph on the car park stage, then hit the brakes while I'm in overhead view with the force overlay. I notice the rearward forces on the tires. As a rule of thumb, if any turn red that means you should lower the max force per wheel, NOT change the brake bias. Once you've gotten all the decelerative force arrows to stay in the green, then you should tune your brake bias. Once you have a feel for what bias you're comfortable with, go repeat the forces testing and move the max force up or down to get as much as possible down to the ground without locking up the wheels.
You know what? I can't stand setups that use the least sticky tires possible in the rear. Real drifting is about total control, the kind you get with as much grip as possible. The way to break traction isn't by not having any traction to begin with. I am attaching my own XF GTi drift setting for others to try. Don't mind the setup name =).
Also. I don't like that people just disavow the fact that front drive cars can't drift. THEY CAN. Drifting is the art of getting around corners by controlled loss of traction at 1 or more axle. PERIOD. Smashing the gas, spinning the rear tires, and sliding around is called POWERSLIDING. Powersliding is a form of drifting ,but not drifting as a whole.
I drive an old car. a '75 Toyota Celica GT to be precise. If need be, I could drive on the ignition.. =). Also, my old Honda Prelude (1988) didn't have a clutch safety either. To be honest, the only cars I've driven with clutch safeties have been 92+ Toyotas and a couple newer Hondas and Nissans.
The crash happens at one of two times. One is when I click Multiplayer from the main menu, the other is when I click "Go" on the Create New Game menu. I get the "blue screen of death" and my computer restarts. Any ideas?