Ah, that makes sense. Thanks 
What can I do about door-sill rust? Under the plastic covers on the door sills of my car, there is some rust. It looks like just surface rust, but it goes a little deeper then that. Having no air tools, is there any way that I could get the rust off? Or, what tools would be required? If I have to get an electric grinder then I will. It's better then waiting till it rusts deeper, which would cost me even more money.
Grind back to good metal, hope that the remaining metal is thick enough to actually provide the strength required of a sill, then coat with decent rust prevention treatments, and finally fill, rub down, prime and paint.
Rust killers on top of rust do not work (for more than a month). Do not bother. The only way to kill rust is to remove it completely.
If you are in the slightest doubt about the thickness of the metal have a replacement section grafted in carefully to give back the strength.
Rust killers on top of rust do not work (for more than a month). Do not bother. The only way to kill rust is to remove it completely.
If you are in the slightest doubt about the thickness of the metal have a replacement section grafted in carefully to give back the strength.
also (and just as important) find the leak so it doesnt happen again!
Chances are it's the flexing of the chassis causing the trim to rub through the paint. My car suffers it terribly on the sills too, as it has stainless trims that wear through.
I have yet to do anything about it though, so do as I say not do as I do
I have yet to do anything about it though, so do as I say not do as I do
i guess it depends on the age of the car, something as new as yours is probably chassis flex, as old as mine is the door seals made of cheese with holes in.
My 1991 car isn't that much newer than yours!
Can I use a wire brush disk to get the surface rust off, and then see if there is any remaining deep rust? I think I will buy a grinder tomorrow. But I read on a forum pertaining to my make/model of car that you have to be careful when grinding because there is a fuel line near one of the door sills.
BTW, My car is from 1996. I don't even see how the door sill gets rusty so easily. I mean, I might have driven on a gravel road in the rain once or twice and splashed through a few puddles, but I don't think one or two instances of that would be enough to cause rust.
BTW, My car is from 1996. I don't even see how the door sill gets rusty so easily. I mean, I might have driven on a gravel road in the rain once or twice and splashed through a few puddles, but I don't think one or two instances of that would be enough to cause rust.
Yeah, a stiff wire wheel will take the surface rust off and allow you to see how deep it goes. You can also use a chisel or something to tap the metal and compare the sound it makes with a 'good' area (although internal structures and joints will also cause the noise to change).
I doubt the fuel line will go inside the sill (but it might) - it's much more likely to run along the outside of the sill along the floor. If you peer underneath you can probably see it.
I doubt the fuel line will go inside the sill (but it might) - it's much more likely to run along the outside of the sill along the floor. If you peer underneath you can probably see it.
yes but its japanese, that would make it at least 5 years more advanced in technology even if it was the same age
But 10 years behind on rust proofing technology 
I went and inspected the rust some more. The really rusty door sill is the rear passenger side. The fuel line runs along the floor on the drivers side, so that's not really an issue. I saw some places where it looked like the paint was raised slightly, and poked at them. It turns out there was some rust underneath the paint. After I grind the rust off, what do I do?
my hairdresser mobile barely's got any rust, and the climate we both live is quite the same
then again, I don't have funky sill plates
Osco - is yours an import? Mine is, and apparently even though they are built on the same assembly line they reduced the underbody protection for their native market.
W4H - if want to cure the rust then you need to grind it away under the paint too, and then do as before - rust proofing, filler, prime, paint (and lacquer if required). Most rust first appears as bubbles under paint, so most rust cures require grinding away some (all, occasionally) the paint.
W4H - if want to cure the rust then you need to grind it away under the paint too, and then do as before - rust proofing, filler, prime, paint (and lacquer if required). Most rust first appears as bubbles under paint, so most rust cures require grinding away some (all, occasionally) the paint.
just a euro-spec, LHD mx-5, nothing special. At least not when I got it
Why are automatic transmissions so popular in the US compared to Europe?
Americans are lazy. Next question.
Americans are lazy and, as a group, lack the simple skills required to use a wheel, a pedal and a lever all at the same time. Of course, there are one or two exceptions, but it pretty much holds water.
And the clutch pedal takes up valuable room that a stomach could fill.
Presumably a sensible answer is that the amount of congestion in the cities, coupled with the long, boring interstates makes changing gear more of a chore than a pleasure. In Europe we get to brake from 60mph to 30mph, heel&toeing down the gearbox every few seconds, so we can enjoy our driving (or we can mash the lever about and let the syncromesh do the 'blipping', but nobody who enjoys driving would do that, surely?).
And the massively cheap fuel prices meant that the efficiency drawbacks of a slushbox weren't ever thought about. And who would with a 6 litre V8 in a town car that can barely do 10mpg ever.
And the clutch pedal takes up valuable room that a stomach could fill.
Presumably a sensible answer is that the amount of congestion in the cities, coupled with the long, boring interstates makes changing gear more of a chore than a pleasure. In Europe we get to brake from 60mph to 30mph, heel&toeing down the gearbox every few seconds, so we can enjoy our driving (or we can mash the lever about and let the syncromesh do the 'blipping', but nobody who enjoys driving would do that, surely?).
And the massively cheap fuel prices meant that the efficiency drawbacks of a slushbox weren't ever thought about. And who would with a 6 litre V8 in a town car that can barely do 10mpg ever.
Heh you're on the point here.
Maybe a bit OT but:
"(or we can mash the lever about and let the syncromesh do the 'blipping', but nobody who enjoys driving would do that, surely?)."
At least for now I have to do it that way, because the pedal "ergonomy" in Sierra sucks and there's no way to heel 'n toe without broking my legs joints.
I need to build my own pedal set for this car...Kinda know what you mean with the capri too, i cant do it even though i have size 12 shoes! (47 for you euro types
)I once tried my "rallying" shoes (very good ones for driving, use them with G25) and was able to just do a minor blip, but only when pushing the brakes just a little. When braking properly it is not possible even with the best shoes I think.
Serious Question - What fuel do I use?
On the way to work I have the option of Shell, BP & Tesco without deviating from my route at all.
I am looking for the best MPG
Car in question is a Proton Wira 1.5 using an old-design Mitsubishi Orion engine.
I tried the expensive Shell VPower petrol for my MOT, and my Dad commented on how the emissions were better than last time by a lot - which is most likely down to the fuel as it's had no other engine stuff done.
Help, please?
On the way to work I have the option of Shell, BP & Tesco without deviating from my route at all.
I am looking for the best MPG
Car in question is a Proton Wira 1.5 using an old-design Mitsubishi Orion engine.
I tried the expensive Shell VPower petrol for my MOT, and my Dad commented on how the emissions were better than last time by a lot - which is most likely down to the fuel as it's had no other engine stuff done.
Help, please?
Or that you've given it a blast compared to last time where it was driven around town at low revs?
Or that :P
Use V-Power for a month or two and compare your cost per mile (the bottom line) with 'cheap' fuels. Then you won't ever use cheap fuels again if you can possibly avoid it.
Miscellaneous Automotive Questions Thread (Please Read 1st Post)
(147 posts, started )
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