The only way I could possible argue that engine braking doesn't matter (in LFS) if that LFS doesn't, that I know of, doesn't have disk wear, pad wear, overheating brakes resulting in fade. I suppose if it did then using engine braking a little could help maintain the integrity of the brakes longer during racing. Though, this could have adverse effects on the drive train components. But still. If the vehicle was setup in a manner where the coast effect of a limited slip diff could stabilize the car when throttle is applied during braking and down shifting??? Maybe?? Especially toward the end of braking at turn in where you would need to try roll to more throttle from the brake switching to power effect of LSD?? The torque of the engine applied to the wheels though the gearbox, diff should allow the car to be pulled toward the road at the rear?? Or I guess we could say keeping the chassis loaded at the transition point?
Pretty sure I just babbled about this like "W". Sorry if it sounds a bit skewed...
My wife is bugging me to go to the store and then comes in here and then drops a jury duty notice on my keyboard.... bah!!
Depends on the car and the setup. Lift throttle induced oversteer (coast differential setting) is used in some real race cars, and was heavily used in Grand Prix Legends. Part of the idea of left foot braking by the "aliens" in racing games is that it allows a setup with a bit of excessive lift throttle induced oversteer to be controlled by applying throttle and brake at the same time.
Virtually all racing motorcycles all use "slipper" clutches that limit engine braking, as well as some street bikes. Other than cars that use motorcycle engines, I'm not sure if any racing cars use slipper clutches. However, in the case of Formula 1 race cars, who knows what the ECU and computer controlled clutch management does in those cars these days?
Getting back to the OP, as mentioned, a driver gets a lot of feedback from braking in a real car, the deceleration and the amount of pressue on the pedal, something that can't be duplicated with a game. You could set up a car so max pressure wouldn't lock up the tires, but in a high downforce car, you'd have to allow for some potential lock up at slow speeds for optimal high speed breaking. Then again, in high downforce race cars, like Formula 1, it's not possible to lock up the tires at high speed because of the huge amount of downforce (don't know if it's a limitation of brakes, or for a safety margin).
From experience I'd say this is true, interesting..
I wonder if G25 could be modified to reflect this behaviour by weakening the original spring and adding a piece of rubber or whatever to far end of the travel. The brake resistance would then be extremely progressive, and dxtweak could be used to alter the "travel".
I have used G25 pedals then went to Frex pedals (no sim brake) then went to CST pedals.
In the G25 I cut a stress ball and placed it into the brakes spring (prolly not as good as nixim) but it did the trick, it gave a pressure effect like a real car.
Then I went to Frex pedals that had just a 3cm rubber cylinder, it felt too hard to compress (close to how Skip barber racing schoold cars feel). Perhaps too hard so I added a 2cm spring to give very little play in the travel of the pedal. I must say even after going to CST pedals which use a Load Sensor the Frex pedals feel closer to real life. While the G25 w/ stress ball felt good too and no need to tweak it with dxtweak.
I find the idea that you should simply avoid engine braking frankly laughable. Unless you have a problem with locking the driving wheels - in fact even if you have this problem - you still want to be in the required gear for the approaching corner as early as possible. That issue might affect how early or aggressively you can make the gear change, but you still do it as early as possible.
If you stayed in, say, 2nd gear between 2 corners and were on the red line as you brake for the second would you declutch so you avoid engine braking? Maybe in "avoid engine braking at all costs" world. It's not a case of using the engine braking as a brake, but to say you should avoid it actually occuring is just nonsense.
I have my brakes set just to limit before they lock the tires, so I can floor the pedal without locking (or just a little bit), but I help my brakes with fast downshifting.
What I've seen in real races, they are often able to fully lock their wheels, mostly in F1. I bet if you do a quick search on youtube, you can find many videos of this situation.
Note that I mentioned at high speed, say 160mph, where the cars experience over 2 g's of downforce. At low speeds, the F1 cars easily lock up the brakes.
Minimaxman, I read in two racing books that a driver only jabs the brakes before a corner if he senses his brakes are fading/close to being finished. One of those books was Skip Barber's the other Alain Prost's.
A mechanical engineer was telling me that even if you are on the limit of your braking, engine braking will slow the car down further. You have to discriminate between kinetic energy and potential energy here. Even if your brakes or tyres are on the limit of adhesion (ie. 15% slip), engine braking will help as the energy is not dissipated through the tyres.
The thing is, when you rev match, engine braking is working at its max, also. If you were to blip the engine any higher than the output shaft speed and then engage the lower gear, the car would jolt forward, increasing your braking distance.
BTW, I posted this in another thread. If the answer to my question is that drivers have set up the car that max pedal pressure = 100% braking, that is kind of like an aid, and certainly unrealistic. It's funny no one has a hint of trail braking, just 0% - 100% instantaneous response. I am very skeptical with regard to this. Schumacher's own braking for a hairpin shows significant trail braking...and that's in an F1 car!
'Looking at the telemetry for the best laps in the XFG, I noticed that all the top laps have seemingly digital braking. The brake pressure goes from 0% to exactly 100% for the needed period and then back to 0%. And all this instantaneous...not a slight hint of lockup or modulation - just 100%! Looking at real telemetry this is never the case, especially in the case of heel-toe, when the foot inevitably loses some of the pressure it is maintaining on the brakes.
Otherwise it might be a locked diff which creates lift-off-understeer crapness, so you have to brake hard and then hit the throttle hard and avoid wasting time in that lift-off-understeer situation, trail braking often isn't the fastest way with those setups necessarily.