He all,
one my friend that not speak english very well has a problem with his G25.

During the start, with the XRR, when the car starting "lost the rear" and he try to correct then the wheel (G25) lost the center.
After his new "center" is about 15-40 degrees moved on left or right.
This problems happens about 4 times on 10.
He use last driver version, 5.04.
The problem actually happens on FE4 (Fern Bay Black).

Somebody with the same problem ? Any solutions ?

Thanks.

turn the wheel from lock to lock... if that doesn't work, try recalibrating it.

Yes ... he recalibrate the wheel but the next race start ... it happens again.

did he crash into something, or have a really screwed up setup?

he could try unplugging the wheel too, sometimes that helps.

Did he "Lock calibration" after ?

I had the same problem and the wheel was faulty. I got a new one from Logitech.

I had the same problem (with G25 and a black momo)
If you turn the wheel very fast, the sensor (at the back of the ff motor) is failing to see all the tittle "holes" in the gearing wheel.
In my case the solution was very simple, I just bended the sensor (the emitter and reciever) a little closer to each other.
And the problem never came back

Thanks all for the reply and for other experiences.

Hey, I had this problem yesterday.

try SHIFT + C it reinitialized the controller, that fixed it for me.

Dougz.

I think you will find that its the "optical encoder" bracket that's on the end of the left motor inside of the housing..

I had this problem myself & tryed recalibrating/reseting / even unpluged it & reinstalled to no avail.....

So i tryed this--->>>

If you dont have any warranty left you can just open the wheel up & tighten up the two screws that hold the bracket onto the motor,pretty straight forward..
Here's a couple pic showing the offending part/s
Hope it helps you

Thansk Black !

Tdougan the effect is immediatly with SHIFT+C ?

Happy to have helped mate

Hope it works proper again....best of luck

I'm having the same problem with my DFP. I'll be driving along happily on the straight and all of a sudden, "doink", the wheel's TDC is off by about 8 or 10 degrees. In an MRT during a battle, this can get ugly and the last time it happened I quit the server out of sheer embarrassment. Haven't been back since..

I've dismantled the DFP a few times and tightened every screw I can find (I'm not really a mechanical-type) but to no avail. Is there an established fault with the DFP, and/or a step-by-step guide to fixing it?

Similar issue to you Sam. I have often found my DFP enjoys shifting me down or up 2 gears at one time, and often the pedals will stop working for a few seconds. Not good in a braking zone, as I found out at last MoE. DFP seems a bit useless to be honest...

Quote from CSF :

I have often found my DFP enjoys shifting me down or up 2 gears at one time,

LFS has a setting to address this specific problem, it's called Gearshift debouncing in Options > Misc. Increase the time until it's fixed.

I just steal the topic,

but latest profiler doesn't seem to start up automatically? It's loaded in system tray, I hook up G25, start LFS, and no key bindings working.

Have to go back to windows, double click the icon, thus opening profiler, go back to LFS and then they work.

Quite annoying, last version of Profiler didn't have this issue?

Anyone got an idea?

why don't we just make this thread the logitech problems thread

I have sometimes same problem with MOMO, but i just steer it quickly from lock to lock and race on

Dear guys,

the problem you mentioned is caused by the motor encoder wheel.

If you open the G25 you'll see a small black plastic box on the rear of the right side motor, inside that box there is a PLASTIC encoder wheel mounted on the motor shaft.
During the normal use the motor shaft gets hot and as the time pass by, day by day, the encoder wheel stands a hard wear and tear 'cause it is gripped on the motor shaft (the wheel hole is precise to the shaft diameter to get it blocked)
At a certain point, the wheel gets a crack on its radius (due to the wheel grip on the shaft + heat) preventing its normal rotation on the shaft.

Yes, it's a pain in the ass 'cause it's a lack of Logitech project department.

The solution is to remove the broken wheel, get it fixed with a drop of instant glue and then try to enlarge the wheel hole using a 3.5mm drill bit rotating it BY HAND very very slightly (don't try to use electric dril or you'll get a pulverized wheel!)

Then, at job done, fix the wheel on the shaft again using the same instant glue (ONE DROP!) directly on the shaft and then insert the wheel at the right position and leave it at rest about 20 sec.

Re-assemble the small electronic board and then close the box.

Now your G25 should be fine again!

Quote from arc team :

Dear guys,

the problem you mentioned is caused by the motor encoder wheel.

If you open the G25 you'll see a small black plastic box on the rear of the right side motor, inside that box there is a PLASTIC encoder wheel mounted on the motor shaft.
During the normal use the motor shaft gets hot and as the time pass by, day by day, the encoder wheel stands a hard wear and tear 'cause it is gripped on the motor shaft (the wheel hole is precise to the shaft diameter to get it blocked)
At a certain point, the wheel gets a crack on its radius (due to the wheel grip on the shaft + heat) preventing its normal rotation on the shaft.

Yes, it's a pain in the ass 'cause it's a lack of Logitech project department.

The solution is to remove the broken wheel, get it fixed with a drop of instant glue and then try to enlarge the wheel hole using a 3.5mm drill bit rotating it BY HAND very very slightly (don't try to use electric dril or you'll get a pulverized wheel!)

Then, at job done, fix the wheel on the shaft again using the same instant glue (ONE DROP!) directly on the shaft and then insert the wheel at the right position and leave it at rest about 20 sec.

Re-assemble the small electronic board and then close the box.

Now your G25 should be fine again!

I dont think its a good idea going anywhere near the optical encoder wheel
with any kind of drill/tool that way!!!

Plus the encoder wheel wouldn't get that hot during normal wear & tear as to slip/split on the motor shaft....??? if yours did,then its possible that yours was faulty mate

As far as i have found,the encoder bracket being loose on the back the motor is just a factory fault,,e.g..the screws holding the bracket to the motor are hard to get to,possibly a dozen people sitting on a production line being told to assemble these parts without damage, hence the loose bracket! ....there will be faults with anything made....just go's to show the lack of quality control

I had something like that with my old G25 and that ended up dying.

i have this problem on occasion. i just go to the options menu and turn the wheel lock to lock and that fixes it. also sometimes will happen with the pedals if i dont calibrate (a small tap will be full brake for example). just depress the throttle, brake adn clutch fully and release and that will fix it.

Quote from arc team :

Dear guys,

the problem you mentioned is caused by the motor encoder wheel.

If you open the G25 you'll see a small black plastic box on the rear of the right side motor, inside that box there is a PLASTIC encoder wheel mounted on the motor shaft.
During the normal use the motor shaft gets hot and as the time pass by, day by day, the encoder wheel stands a hard wear and tear 'cause it is gripped on the motor shaft (the wheel hole is precise to the shaft diameter to get it blocked)
At a certain point, the wheel gets a crack on its radius (due to the wheel grip on the shaft + heat) preventing its normal rotation on the shaft.

Yes, it's a pain in the ass 'cause it's a lack of Logitech project department.

The solution is to remove the broken wheel, get it fixed with a drop of instant glue and then try to enlarge the wheel hole using a 3.5mm drill bit rotating it BY HAND very very slightly (don't try to use electric dril or you'll get a pulverized wheel!)

Then, at job done, fix the wheel on the shaft again using the same instant glue (ONE DROP!) directly on the shaft and then insert the wheel at the right position and leave it at rest about 20 sec.

Re-assemble the small electronic board and then close the box.

Now your G25 should be fine again!

If this does not fix your issue or you manage to break the encoder into pieces, the answer to your prayer can be found at http://cmlaserservice.com/ This company makes a BRASS replacement optical encoder wheel for the G25/G27. It is $37 (via PayPal) shipped from Thailand. It will take a week or so to get it so be patient.

Tom