My teammate Hugo is having problems with his wheel. It randomly crashes during racing, and the steering / pedals in game freeze leaving the car to continue in the same path until it hits something.

We've found that the only way to get the wheel back up and running is to replug it, and go shift + c (reinitiate controllers). The problem is, he needs to be able to change to mouse (almost at the instant his wheel dies) to regain control of the car just to stop it from crashing, then switch back to wheel mode once everything is sorted.

The question is, does anyone have any knowledge of a script or something to switch controllers to mouse in one button press, and back to wheel again, in one button press?

have u ever thought that it may be hes wheel? That crashing/freezing thing.

Edit: Ooh, now i get it ... I didnt read it at the first time.

Is he on Vista? You could perhaps do it with scripts, check the lfs manual guide and the docs/commands to see if you can change the controller mode without going to the menus.

Quote from boothy :

Is he on Vista? You could perhaps do it with scripts, check the lfs manual guide and the docs/commands to see if you can change the controller mode without going to the menus.

No, I'm on XP. I was taking a look in the script guide and there's no command to mouse controls or something like that... I hope someone already did that before, I don't think it's impossible...

how's your usb setup? maybe you're overloading the 'hub' or using the wrong speed port?

Quote from bunder9999 :

how's your usb setup? maybe you're overloading the 'hub' or using the wrong speed port?

I have 6 slots here (4 in the rear, 2 in the front), and 1 is being used (in the rear), that is the wheel. How can I see what should be the right port?

I always used the same USB port and never happened this issue before, it's recent.

Quote from hugoluis :

I have 6 slots here (4 in the rear, 2 in the front), and 1 is being used (in the rear), that is the wheel. How can I see what should be the right port?

I always used the same USB port and never happened this issue before, it's recent.

if i remember correctly, when you plug it in, and it complains that the device can go faster, it's in the wrong port. but chances are it's not that if you've used that same port forever. and since you're not using any other ports, it's not an overloading case.

what's the power like feeding the wheel? what kind of wheel is it?

Quote from bunder9999 :

if i remember correctly, when you plug it in, and it complains that the device can go faster, it's in the wrong port. but chances are it's not that if you've used that same port forever. and since you're not using any other ports, it's not an overloading case.

what's the power like feeding the wheel? what kind of wheel is it?

It's a Logitech G25. I don't know, to be honest - But I think that the power is OK.

I had my doubts about the power but I'm sure it's not with any problem.

The only thing that is related to the power when the wheel crashes, is that even if I turn off the power, the LED keeps on. So, whatever you do with the power when the wheel crashes, won't work. Only when you reboot the USB.

Some sort of weirdy windows power saving on the USB device ?

Quote from Bean0 :

Some sort of weirdy windows power saving on the USB device ?

I think If it should be power saving, the LED would turn off IMO. And this happened when I tried the wheel in the front USB port.

Sometimes this happens to me. I think I have damaged power cable. Check yours

It'd be better to sort the problem out rather than finding a way to just live with it..

Today my wheel crashed and now it didn't turned on again. The pedals are working, but not the wheel. Even if I replug the transformer, or try in other places, doesn't work... And the wheel is heavly as hell like the FF is on, but it's not returning to the center.

I replug the USB, and usually the LED is semi-on. If you turn on your FFB transformer, it will be 100% on. But it's not happening again, I turn on the FFB and nothing happen, the led keeps semi-on and the wheel don't calibrate.

If I open the LFS, it still the same thing, and the wheel doesnt work like its crashed. I think something happened to my Force Feedback.

Someone already had this problem? How I can solve this? I hope you can help me.

that sounds weird... i hope it didn't die.

Had you tried to open up the wheel? I think its an electrical problem in the wheel it self, rather than PC/USB/Power problem.
Might be something tiny, if u open it up i suggest testing all the wires in there see if something is lose and if it is try to weld the faulty connection.

Usually on endu races or using the wheel ( G25 ) for more than an hour or so the electric motors get really hot. Depends on how much ffb u use but imo g25 isnt well engineered because if u put it to max power ( like i used to lol 150 in game 105 > profiler ) the motors will die pretty soon.

Overall im hoping its not an electronic problem because usually these faults are harder to repair :\

And I wouldn't recommend to open the wheel there is service to deal with it.
I really doubt that problem will be easy to solve in house and if you open it There is big probability that in service you my hear that its all your fault and charge you more.
If the wheel of your friend is still on Warranty its also highly unadvised to open it.

Quote from ZanZi :

Usually on endu races or using the wheel ( G25 ) for more than an hour or so the electric motors get really hot. Depends on how much ffb u use but imo g25 isnt well engineered because if u put it to max power ( like i used to lol 150 in game 105 > profiler ) the motors will die pretty soon.

I don't own a wheel but in case if FFB its to strong and can damage the wheel, isn't it would be better to reduce the power in game or turn it off at least in enduro race?
Actually I would like to by myself a wheel(G25) so I wonder how long such motors live

I'm used to drive with 20~30% of Force Feedback and 105/0/0/0 in Profiler.

Do you think the fact that I bought a "second category" wheel is one of the reasons for all these problems? I bought it already used for some months and for ~£185,00 / $275,00 (actual correncies) [or R$600,00. A new G25 costs R$1100,00]...

That is really weird, I know many people that has the wheel for almost 3 years and they are much more "agressive" with it than me and their wheel still doesn't had any problem. My wheel is a bit more older than 1 year and I think I reached the maximum number of issues with a G25 in so small time.

hugo.. i had the exact same problem with my thrustmaster force feedback GT racing wheel couple years ago...

i would be driving along.. then suddenly wheel disconnects from lfs for no reason :/ and id end up trying to brake for corner and turn yet car goes str8 on.

only way i solved it was getting a new one :/ it wouldnt go.. and i never found out what the problem was.

Quote from Chupacabras84 :

And I wouldn't recommend to open the wheel there is service to deal with it.
I really doubt that problem will be easy to solve in house and if you open it There is big probability that in service you my hear that its all your fault and charge you more.
If the wheel of your friend is still on Warranty its also highly unadvised to open it.


I don't own a wheel but in case if FFB its to strong and can damage the wheel, isn't it would be better to reduce the power in game or turn it off at least in enduro race?
Actually I would like to by myself a wheel(G25) so I wonder how long such motors live

Ofcourse when there is warranty the last thing to do is to open it up your own doh. Thing is these wheels arent too hard to repair if u have the right tools and knowledge. Basicaly the only parts you can find hard to repair are the potentiometers and the electronics stuff.

Thing is with is with the wheels that their engines are just like the engines on your windsreenwipers or which are used by the electrical windows in cars. They are very efficient but tend to overheat quickly so u cant use them for too long with maximum load cause they just burn.

Im having g25(2nd hand, from a drifter xD) for little over an year and the only problem is the throttle pot that needs spiriting from time to time ( once~twice a year ). The wheel is very durable, but could've been done much better ofcourse that would've made it way more pricy.