Quote from cougar7005 :

thanks or the advice, one other thing ive sort of just noticed is the throttle pedal is just an on/off switch ..

I don't know this wheel's specs, like is it really digital pedal inputs? on/off
It's called a "Digital Sports Wheel" to make it sound cooler I guess, but I don't know for sure about the pedals.

Is this wheel supposed to be digital pedals? If so, push up the Button Control Rate to 10.0, this will slow down the full throttle effect a bit and stop some of the power on oversteer effect.

Maybe you just have to set Throttle / Brake Axes as Separate instead of Buttons in LFS Controls menu, but like I said I don't know if your wheel supports this feature. Does the yellow sliders move in the LFS Controls menu when you press the throttle and brake, this will tell you if the pedals support smooth axes control.

Cougar, are both pedals are acting like switches? if they are analog you might be able to calibrate them to have more "range" as someone has said above try calibrating them ingame (options/controllers/ "axis/ff" then click recalibrate push pedals a couple of times to their limits turn wheel lock to lock. then click "lock" you might want to set remove deadzones to yes, but its not essential, then as I posted above make the pedal bars visible in lfs to test the amount of usable pedal.

If they are digital switches, look for a new wheel

SD.

whats so odd about the pedals is, in the control panel of windows you can press the throttle pedal to say 20% and hold it there, in lfs and gtr evolution as soon as you touch the pedal bang its up to 100% but the brake pedal is progressive like it should be, ive started to go into corners now in too high a gear just so i dont spin when i touch the pedal which means it bogs down on the exit not going to win any races but it means i dont spin all of the time .

Something not quite right if your not getting the same pedal input ingame as in the control panel.

Can you post a screen grab (ctrl+S ingame, bmps saved in data/shots) of the controllers axis screen the one below so we can have a look, maybe its just a setting as Jason said already

SD.

instead of taking screen grabs ive videoed whats happening as i think its easier to see it happening as it is for me to explain. i hope

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nv0HkVWiIpA

You need to hit the "unlock" toggle then fully depress either pedal then press "lock" again that should solve your throttle troubles

just tried that, the brake pedal slider bar now goes all the way instead of stopping halfway but the throttle stays either on off

Can you show us the rest of the settings on screen?

try this

It's worth a try, click Recalibrate Axes, and fully depress each pedal and turn the wheel lock to lock.

ive done that no difference, think im going to have to wait untill i can get a better wheel and just put up with this one.

Quote from cougar7005 :

just tried that, the brake pedal slider bar now goes all the way instead of stopping halfway but the throttle stays either on off

Hi again

That youtube video was great so easy to see whats happning
It looked like you only have a small amount of movement on the gas pedal is that right? it should travel through the same distance as the brake one does, was that you or is it like that?

If that is all the movement you have then I think something has moved or broken inside the pedals (or possibly a break in the internal cores of the cable) its very easy to get a small screwdriver and take the pedals apart carefully remembering (or photographing) how it all comes apart to make it easy to reassemble, I suspect the pot (potentiometer) has come out of its seating in the surrounding plastic depending on how its made you may be able to repair with little fuss and only a couple hours work tops I have repaired alot of this kind of thing bit fiddely but not too hard.

don't attempt to take it apart unless your confidant you can reassemble as you might be left with completely broken pedals I accept no responsibilty

If it was purchased new less than 12 months ago, take it back for replacement, the old "not fit for purpose" line never fails

If the gas works smoothly in your windows controllers config then it must be a setting, post another vid of that if its the case.

Good luck

SD.

EDIT: do you have any other controllers plugged in also? this might be confusing the driver software.

ive done a new youtube video to watch (im very kind to you all) this is how the wheel behaves in the windows control panel. i have tried unplugging my other controllers but it doesnt make any difference.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YG13ZmywWJY

Throttle / brake are set as separate axes ?
Hitting Shift+C to reinitialise controllers does domething?
As said before, unlock calibration, remove deadzones (=yes), recalibrate axes, Lock again.. should help..

Seems to me like it`s a deadzone issue, maybe the remove deadzone thingie will help.

Well after seeing that 2nd video, theres nothing wrong with your pedals but you already knew that

Could you try restarting your PC with just your wheel & pedals plugged in (no other controllers) then run LFS and do a reconfig all the yellow bars in use should go all the way not just half way.
if that dosn't work try deleting all the .CON files except default.CON in your data/misc folder, then restart LFS and reconfigure wheel.

Another thing is to try clicking combined pedal axis in LFS controllers screen but I think seperate "should" be ok.

Is your directX up to date? check with start/run type dxdiag and press return.

Im sure we will get this sorted soon

SD.

if you don't want to delete your .CON files, you can re-install/unzip a fresh copy of LFS to another folder and reassign the controllers and axes and start al over again, maybe something will happen that wasn't apparent before. Try disconnecting any other controllers to remove any variables as was stated above.

....Very good tips there from SparkyDave and STF.


This is very strange, your pedals are indeed analog so should work properly in LFS. Hope you can get this sorted, you are really missing out without proper accelerator control.

The videos are a big help and save a lot of incorrect diagnosis.

just tried opening another copy of the game and its the same, think im just going to have to save for a new wheel. thanks for all the help guys much appreciated.

It should be do-able because Windows detects the gas pedal correctly as an analog device. With that fresh copy of LFS, try all the things that have been suggested. Remove deadzones, recalibrate axes, unlock them, try combined axes and separate axes, invert the gas axes (Y axes?) Try everything with the new install. Something might click.

Even try re-installing the drivers for the wheel, (if it came with a disk or you can download them), but perhaps the drivers are already included in Windows, so I dunno how to remove them safely and get them back in that instance, sorry.

There is nothing that should stop this from working in LFS, because Windows is detecting the gas properly. LFS just feeds off Windows.

Strange how it's the same in GTR Evo as well. Something very fishy. Have you got another PC/Family PC that you can test it on?

Computers really suck sometimes.

This is indeed a tricky one
as Jason has said if both pedasl are detected properly (analog) in windows controller config the they should be detected in the same way by LFS.

are you running a profiler or saitek device manager? any macro programs or hotkey apps, Im thinking the raw inputs are ok but something is changing the Y axis into digital, its interesting that you have so many Y axis in your video and the brk is on a unique axis RZ and works ok, this is why I suggested unplugging the other controllers. You know it could be the drivers for your other controllers (flight yolks? joypads?) auto load when you start windows and this then "overrides" the correct Y imputs.

If you wanted to test you could set up another windows user account and just plug in the wheel alone and load the wheel drivers, and fire up a fresh LFS, with the most common wheels you will see the name of the controller in that axis/ff screen top right, if it says Saitek R220 wheel you know you have cracked it and it should then work.

Dont give up its probably a small issue even if you have to "mess about" reinstalling drivers for an evening, it will make for many more hours of driving on the edge with full car control

Keep us posted we don't like to have a problem unsolved

SD.

I do find that some of the rwd cars, like the lx4/6 and the fzr, spin out easily the second you graze the grass with a rear tire. I guess cause one end you get grip, the other you dont.

i tried the wheel on my laptop last night after my pc died again (working till 2 am to fix it good job i dont work at the moment) and it was exactly the same. ive just downloaded a new driver from saitek just for the wheel rather than the generic one for all saitek products and once again its exactly the same im giving up and just going to live with the on off switch throttle till i get a new job and a better wheel

have to admit that now i know what the problem is i appear to be over compensating for it and driving slower but spinning less, oh well

found another problem with my pedal setup that may not help my lap times

Quote from cougar7005 :

found another problem with my pedal setup that may not help my lap times

Thats just, win!!!! :huepfenic:huepfenic:huepfenic:huepfenic:huepfenic:huepfenic

Hi again, your co-driver looks a bit of a dog

OK back to your annoying pedal issue, Ive done some searching around and found some old lfs forum posts from 2005, with the exact same R220 Digital problems and reports of "its all fixed" but no info
A wider search brought me to this thread (check the last post) and then I re-watched your 2 fab videos, it looks to me like your running windows XP is that right? if so is it XP64? or just the standard 32bit XP?, also did you just plug & play this wheel? or did you install the specific drivers for the R220 for your flavor OS?( if not there available here) I have a really good feeling that you could have a fully analog pedal set soon Cougar dont give up just yet

Good luck

SD.