try going to the begginning of turn 1 (the hairpin) turn around and go towards the start, and start drifting that way, it is way easier and funner, faster and better! start drifting for the slow bend at one of the distance markers i forget which one
No. I've got a fine setup that suits my style, but I'm just curious about your drifting speeds, such that I want to be sure I am not drifting to slow...
imo drifting speed depends on your style (you said you already had one ) upload a replay, and i will tell you what you need to improve on to make it more then just power oversteer. if you are like me at all you just need to be pointed in the right direction, and do not worry about what speed other people are drifting.
so upload a replay or a youtube video of you drifting and i will tell you everything you need to know.
try doing what i said about turning around in bl1 it is a much easier funner more enjoyable drift
Welll... I'm no drift guru but isn't maximum speed, maximum angle kinda the deal here? Drifting is as much about pushing the limit as grip racing is. Even being somewhat drift-dumb I've managed to find the sweet spot fairly quickly just by tossing it in way too fast and just seeing where the limit is.
Anyway, I like drifting Blackwood reverse with the LX-6, but I don't think the XRG from the demo would do too well with that high speed stuff... but I'm useless at drifting. *shrug*
Sure... I'll post one tonight. I can't seem to push it over ~1:41 while drifting the XRG. However, I am never good at gripping the XFG anyways. I guess I need to get good at both; may help me drift faster too.
How can we state the speed? The driven wheels (providing the car is RWD ofcrouse) will be spinning at a higher rate then the fronts, so it will be indicating a higher speed then we are actually travelling.
I love to drift the XRT in Blackwood Reverse, for some reason I cannot get a hold of the normal track. Drifting is not really about time but more a performance (as they say, I disagree but everybody disagrees with me so I guess they are right then.... oh well).
Anyways, show us a replay of you drifting and we will be able to talk about that and the average speeds in the kind of drifting that you use (clutch-kick, braking drift, inertia or even powerslide)
Edit: Just done a few laps at BL1R with the XRG and my speeds in the normal corners was ~60MPH and the hairpin was ~40MPH
This is rather a crappy run. The speed is generally my avg. drift speeds.
Same as you, mamoru. I run a tad slower, around 90 km/h in normal corners, and 60-ish in T1. You can see, if you watch, that my shifting is horrible, and I actually miss shifts. WHy? I just got an FFB Joystick working today. - You can guess what I did. This is my second run at it; I had 3 laps before taking this replay. Anyways, I made careless mistakes because I was too busy tending to the hshifter, and getting it in gear; I shifted into reverse, and I lose control I had to fix my entries by ebraking it, or powering it through the corner.
I'm still working on it. Have to make a case, buy a stick shift, and boot , and make an h-shift plate for this piece of ugly look sh~t. (AVB TOP SHOT :schwitz. Next project: e-Brake with the pots from my other joystick!
PS: I have to work on my lines, and entry speeds... I know that
I know that I can do a smaller angle, but I generally don't want to or my skills are good enough to do a small angle/countersteer on a slightly oversteer biased setup. I find it easier to control. But when I get the tyres hot enough, I can generally enter with a bigger angle, but wait for it to ease off a bit before stepping on the gas! For high speed continual fast - in fast - out drifting.
I also should practise some high speed 4 wheel drifting. Not sure if this is how it is done, but what I am planning to practise is to ram in at a high speed, jam the e-brake, and have my car slide perpendicular or near perpendicular to the edge, at which all my tyres will have exceeded their maximum grip capacity. (Found doing this with knobs are rather easy... but my current settings lead to high understeer with such tyres).
I can generally do high angles too, but with an XRG, I'll just end up with slow exit speeds, or really hot tyres from max throttle! Or I would need to enter at a high speed, like 140 km/h for T2 (after hairpin).
I'm practising manji (arab drifting); hopefully I'll learn throttle control, and delicate steering. My plans are to get my S2s to arrive thereafter... Then I'll take my XRG to other places, and 'add a turbo' to it... In other words, soon after, I hope to transition to the XRT, when my skills get a bit better. Throttle control, and delicacy... I still need to work on that.
Quote: your drifting is quite good
but you should have a little better angle, and start sooner and faster (thats a general answer)
i have a run for you to examine, it is very bad as it was the first lfs thing i did in about a week, and i am not used to blackwood or the xrg
and try to either tighten up your rear springs or try out my setup (you can keep it if you want) @ LogitekG25
Thank you for the feedback. This is what I need to help me improve. I really appreciate your help!!!
Mhmmm... I believe that is 105hp, which is 75% more power, from the turbo charger. Overall, power to wait ratios should go up around 70%! That's great. Just have to learn more delicate throttle control. I also need to develop a similar setup for it as my XRG. But I still need to practise a lot before I do the transition... I might even de-tune the XRT to ~180hp in the beginning, if necessary. All in all, long time...
the main part is suspension (i will try to make a nice long guide so that i dont have to be bored :razz
suspension has a few setup areas that can make and brake a set. the first is ride height, this is not important until the end of the suspension tuning. stiffness, the stiffer the spring the more oversteer there generally is, so why not tighten up the rear all the way? because in drifting you need control too. so you should have the rear springs generally about 3/4 of the way to the right, and about 1/3 to 1/2 in the front. then you should come back and tweak it as needed.
then there is damping. this is how much resistance to bounce it has, you should drop your car and ajust it so there is the fall compress and depress and stops there, both for front and rear. it also affects fine tuning for drifts. so if you are understeering too much you should have a little less dampening and vice versa. (that goes for grip too)
sway bars. these do not do much in drifting as far as i know, so i just have the front more then the rear by a little and keep it around 1/4 sway bar
ride height. you should drop your car and have it low enough so it just barely looks like it is bottoming out.
drivetrain:
clutches. to keep it simple enough, the locked diff is very easy to drift but hard to drive, open diff is oppisite, clutch just puts force on having the wheels not spin at different speeds, and viscous depends on the speed of the wheels.
i tend to like clutch at a pretty high locking, moterate coast (or whatever it is called), and kinda high force.
viscous at moderate force, and stay away from open.
for gearing keep it how it was, and lower the final (to the right) a little bit so you can keep the rpms up. (have it so it maxes out at the fastest part of the track)
tires:
the type of tire really doesnt matter too much, but i like to stick to normal tires.
first of all you should put your front camber at -2.5 degrees, and your rear at about -.5 to -1.25.
the tire pressure for the front should stay around 30 psi, and in the rear inflate them a lot so they dont get too hot too fast.
passengers:
the amount of passengers doesnt matter too much, but if you want perfect balance put someone in the passenger seat.