I want to discuss with you guys a issue that I am having as I break into a corner. I am using 3 pedals and H-shifter. I will present the techniques I tried with their pros and cons (as resulting from my LFS XP).

Technique 1: Downshifting using only clutch and break.
On small cars (XRT, RB4, XFG etc), I find it easy to downshift through all the gears (5-4-3-2) using the clutch, without Heel&Toe. I can lift the clutch smoothly in order to prevent oversteer on rwd cars. This technique works best for me on these cars.
On FZR, I can't go through all the gears (I'm not a ninja) and I jump some of them. I go from 6 to 4 to 2. If I lift the clutch smoothly, the back doesn't break loose and I manage to steer without problems, but after a few laps the clutch overheats and I lose my acceleration.
If I lift the clutch fast, the back end may slip, especially when I downshift from 4 to 2, but the clutch doesn't overheat. I saw some guys downshift on FZR through all gears (6-5-4-3-2), but I can't be that ninja ... not on a H-shifter, maybe on button-shifting.

Technique 2: Heel&Toe
Heel&Toe really works ok on all cars, but I think I am the problem with this one . Now matter how much practice I get, I still make mistakes frequently, like bliping the gas AFTER I lift the clutch (funny, I know). Often I just rush the pedals and end up spinning around.


ATM I just downshift without Heel&Toe. I lift the clutch smoothly and this gives me a great feel on the car, but the problem is that on some cars (especially GTR), the clutch dies after a few laps.


This also make me wonder about engine-break on cars IRL. Can I damage the engine/drivetrain if I downshift without heel&toe ? I am talking about city cars, like VW Jetta, Opel Astra, Renault and such.

Try breaking more before changing down gears. You have to match your speed more to the revs if you're not going to use heel/toe or downshift through all gears.

If you change down early and do not blip on downshifts you are asking the engine to spin up to match revs. This can result in wheel lockup if you are already close to lockup on the brakes.

It is best to blip (heel toe) on downshifts to avoid engine brake effects and put all the load on the brakes because it is easier to modulate the brake forces that way.

If you use engine braking you might need to modulate your brake pressure as you lift the clutch to stop wheel lockup.

For road cars (or race for that matter) using engine braking will put load on the drivetrain, clutch and engine. This should not have an impact on a road car because you should not really be pushing a car that hard on the roads that you will do damage. Even a race car should be driven with some thought for mechanical sympathy if you want to finish a race.

Track driving is nothing like road driving though so engine braking is not an issue. Drive like you would on a track on the road and it will only be a matter of time before you end up in an UGLY smash. A track is a controlled environment, on the road someone will pull out on you at the last minute and if you are committed to the turn 100% you will have nowhere to go.